I was high up on the crux pitch of Outer Space last Wednasday. I had led up to where the crack goes right and you have to do THE step out. My belayer, for some reason, could not pay me out slack to clip. So I'm hanging out mid crux staring down to figure out what's wrong with his system. To my utter amazement I see that he has his shiny new reverso clipped into his belay loop by the wrong carabiner. He had it clipped like it should be to an anchor for a FOLLOWER. No Fucking wonder he can't pay out slack. Duh. I yelled, "what the fuck, don't you read instruction manuals?" I Then calmly proceeded to talk him through correct procedures. It would have held in a fall... right?
The lesson learned is: don't take sport climbers on trad routes.