DCramer

But how many come back? DC

I will regret posting this! Ok Dru two A3 routes take your choice: Dragon Tail (just one measly pitch) Or V420 ok it's A3+ so I’ll throw in an extra $100 But on the serious side, Squamish has some really good routes no question. It also has a lot of moderate routes. But World Class hate to say it but if I flew across the country or from Europe to climb only at Squamish or Index I’d be very disappointed. While Squamish has a large number of routes, much like the local teens, it takes 30 or 40 to equal an Index route! Darryl ChucK, you should be out bouldering!

Darn! I was saving pictures in wrong color format! You have to use RGB not CMYK. Here is the picture. Several people suggested that I should post something about Dave's relatively unknown routes on the Upper Wall. I thougt it was a good idea, so here they are. STP - The feedback I have received indicates that the STP is slightly harder than the rating indicated in the Index guide. The rating here reflects that feedback. The crux is face climbing but there is plenty of difficult crack climbing on this route. HG - The climbing on this route is not the usual Index fare. The second pitch climbs a large dike barely discernable as a white streak just to the left of the route line. Darryl

ARRGHH! Didn't work. As soon as I figure it all out there will be a pic to see.

For some years I virtually gave up climbing although on occasion David and I would go off on some hair brained search for a new crag or route. On one of these trips we discussed the possibility of raising funds for bolt replacement. David’s energy and enthusiasm resulted in the creation of the Travelers’ Guide as well as reviving my interest in climbing. Although many people joined in the effort, the guide especially the Darrington topos, was the result of his hard work. He then devoted countless hours replacing bolts/anchors and recleaning routes all around the state. Usually he worked alone. Most of the new anchors at the Upper Wall are his work. He preferred to fly under the radar for the most part so most did not know the extent of his contributions to NW climbing. Next time you’re on the Upper Wall and reach a bomber belay take a second and whisper thanks to Dave. Darryl

I kept meaning to jump on this thread but have been preoccupied today. Alpinek has the right idea for many reasons. If the trees and shrubs are not trimmed they will eventually have an incredibly adverse impact on the climbing. Those who can remember back to the late 70's can attest to how messed up things can be. Periodic trimming is needed to maintain the area. The Lower Wall use to receive regular maintenance but in the 90s most of those climbers who brought snips to the crags stopped climbing. By the way anyone interested in spending a day cleaning (as in maintenance) some routes at Private Idaho/Lookout? Darryl

I am older and fatter than both of you! Plus Erik can confirm my wimpness. Erik it isn't a chossfess it is an ideal for living! I hesistated even telling R because I thought it would take over his life and be a marriage breaker.

So was I right? Or was I right about that being a good project for you?! The last classic great Index problem!

Speaking only to guidebooks, I think that depending on how it is formatted the idea is good. I remember a guidebook section in the original discussion board on CC.com. Jon/Timmy am I simply getting old or were there guidebook correction forums when the site first started? Why not place a permanent (sticky?) highly moderated thread, that is spray free, in the appropriate regional thread. That way current info would be easily accessible and near relevant TRs.

I know it's not a mountain but this is a fun little cliff. The bottom 20' is cut off on left side. There are at least half dozen routes from 5.8 to 5.11. Some dirty routes up the back side too. Fun in the sun cragin' in the Cascades.

Ultimately it depends on the shape of the crack. Thin shallow cracks are a different beast than a hand crack or fist crack. If anyone does try the shelf bracket trick - don't buy a long one or it will just bend!

The Bosch is a 24v unit. It is very cheap to buy two 12v batteries and wire them in series and greatly improve the performance of the Bulldog. These batteries last a season and for the price work pretty well.

Left hand problem uses feet for rocks; the others do not.

Between the cracks - rocks are in for feet. Start the traverse w/ a layback off the right side. No rocks for feet. Two problems combined.

No rocks for feet

Left side problem is my favorite on this side. Rocks ok for feet but not the edge. Ape Index - Lowest rock is the only one allowed for your feet. Seam at roof is in. Much harder without it.

Erik - I think she must mean you!

Serious testing is in order! This weekend at Index! Erik you're in charge. Make sure Timl and RumR guys go too!

That's how I'd like 'em. I just haven't met one strong enough!

I think if you are really cleaning that triangle part would not last long.

Allison, I is that a finger like thing with a 90 degree bend ? If so they work great in shallow cracks and seams and for digging into really hard dirt.

Make sure the shelf support is not too long or it won't work well.

Checking before I leave for the weekend and I see this post! Ice Axes work great. The old MSR metal ones are the trick. They are hard to find now. Here is the secret: Materials: Wooden handle Cheap shelf support 2 bolts w/ nuts Wild colored paint Tools: Hand saw Drill Put it together to look like this! shhh ssssssssssssssssssssss shbhsssssssssssssssssss shhhssss shbhsss .hhh .hhh .hhh .hhh .hhh .hhh .hhh .hhh .hhh .hhh .hhh H=handle B=bolt S=Shelf Support .=spacer Then use a pipe brush to clean it the grime. Pliers are handy to pull out stubborn roots and a folding pruning saw is also useful to cut through dirt and roots. Need a place to practice near Seattle? Last year I cleaned out Pressure Drop. It was incredibly dirty. A great TR and could use some more cleaning as can the two routes to the right which are great TRs and only ok leads

Yellow Bird up on Midnight is a fun route. So is the pitch under the roof on Saints/Rainshadow.

Jake I think that with the exception of the first 40' the route stays pretty dry. Not only does it look spicy; it is spicy! I haven't climbed it but several people have told me tales of falls with pro "zippering." The flakes are truly expando. Don't think I will be on it any time soon. It is the most Yosemite looking aid route at the Town Walls and I have always thought that the route is very photogenic. So If anyone wants their picture taken, I'd be happy to rap of and snap some shots while they were on it. For those looking for an FA Directly below the first belay on the Goddess Kring route is a crack similar to City Park. As with City Park the crack doesn't reach the ground so so tricks and a drill will probably be needed to reach it. It does get a bit funky near the belay actually disappearing in places, but for the most part it is a pretty nice crack. Darryl