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dalius

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About dalius

  • Rank
    addicted to cc.com
  • Birthday 09/28/1974

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  • Homepage
    www.alpenphoto.com
  • Occupation
    photographer
  • Location
    seattle,wa
  1. From Puerto Montt all the way south to Tierra del Fuego IS Patagonia. Most people just think it's Torres Del Paine / Fitzroy because that's where all the world famous climbing is. My wife and I spent a good deal of time travelling that part of the world. The closest easy-access awesome climbing I can recommend to you would be across the border in Argentina out of San Carlos de Bariloche. Bariloche is known as the Chamonix of South America - beautiful mountains, volcanoes, alpine lakes, great town, and climbing at Cerro Catedral - golden granite spires near refugio Frey. I went through there in the fall and unfortunately the rains had started by then and no climbing was to be had (but from what I've heard...) I think you can find some trip reports here on CC.com. If you go in summer though, you're sure to find dry rock. I can't remember the names, but there are supposedly some glacier climbs near there as well (look up Cerro Tronador). Otherwise, there are some basic glacier slogs you can do on the chilean side - volcan osorno outside of Pucon, possibly others. If you're up for serious adventure, really really close to Chaiten, just north, is the Valle Cochamo with insane Yosemite bigwall granite. Existing routes are commiting, though it's mostly unexplored - adventure climbing. The Careterra Austral is incredible and is great if you're just looking for general adventure, travel, sightseeing. Spectacular flyfishing. Haven't heard of anything in the way of developed or well known climbing areas until you get all the way to Fitzroy area, but maybe I'm just not in the know. It's not for the lack of mountains, for the area is nothing but mountains - it's just that it seems that most everything is exploration and adventure - need lots of time and planning for those sorts of things. My suggestion? With the time you've got, go have your fun on the Futaleufu, then head up to Bariloche, spend some time climbing out of Refugio Frey, possibly hit up some alpine glaciers in the area, call it a vacation. Your money should go a lot further in Argentina as well. Love that part of the world. Have fun!
  2. Best Helmet for Side-Impact?

    LP- I'm referring to the whole package, the entire helmet. The problem with the hardshell/web cradle helmets is that a side/front/back impact would transmit almost the entire force to the noggin - the suspension system in the helmet wouldn't absorb anything. The hard shell helmets work by providing space in between the shell and your skull, via the webbing cradle, so that in an impact the shell won't make contact with your skull. Rather, the suspension system will absorb and spread the load. The suspension systems in these helmets are anchored in several corners of the helmet - only useful in a direct top-impact. Any other impact would only minimally protect you. The El Cap may stick out a bit during regular use, but during side impact, I'm sure the shell would smack against your skull instantly. While the shell may provide some protection, I don't think it's much. I think the only true protection would be something closer to a bike helmet, thus the foam/shell combo helmets mentioned above. I can see a foam helmet possibly break if smacked hard enough against a rock or something, like in a bushwack. They are more delicate. But so are motorcycle helmets - they can protect you against deadly impact, but should not be used if ever dropped. Don't know about any CE or UIAA tests for off-center impacts. The BMC article linked above hinted at there being none.
  3. Best Helmet for Side-Impact?

    LePiston, I'd have to disagree on the MSR and HB El Cap. I have an HB El Cap, Kevlar, and the problem is that it's a traditional hardshell with a web cradle, horrible for side/front/back impacts. RyanB, Thanks for the link to that article. Here's a link to their more extensive article on helmets in general... BMC Helmet PDF They advocate foam/soft shell over foam/hard shell for off-center impacts, though not sure I see the logic. I guess the Tracer and the Meteor III would qualify as foam/soft shell. WC360 and Metolius Safe Tech the latter. The BD Tracer looks like it would perform, looks like a bike helmet. Wonder how it compared to the Petzl Meteor III. I've tried that one on - it was super comfortable. I can't find any info on the Petzl bike/climb helmet you mentioned. Wild Country 360 does look baller, Metolius Safe Tech too. What's the comfort on those? The Wild Country 360 looks like it may impede head mobility. Guess I'll have to hunt the helmets down and try 'em out.
  4. I've got an kevlar HB brain bucket that I've been using for years in the alpine. It's a great helmet for top-impact, but would perform horribly in any side-impact situation. Been looking into getting a new helmet that protects well against side-impacts, but can't decide on one. Which ones are your favorites? Why?
  5. 1992 Toyota 4Runner - Runs Great - $1200

    SOLD. Mods, can you delete this thread?
  6. The time has come to sell my first car. This 4Runner has served as a great roadtrip/climbing vehicle, a cargo transport vehicle durting my remodel, and my commuter vehicle for work as well. Great all around car. The 4-Cylinder is not as big as a gas guzzler as the 6-cyl. This car still gets 21+mpg on the highway, 18-20 in the city. The engine and drivetrain are in great shape. Replaced cylinder head, clutch, radiator, water pump, rear main seal in '05 because I wanted to engine to last a long time. Starter replaced in '05 as well. Toyota replaced the steering rod relay in '06 due to recall. Have all service paperwork. The body and interior of the car are definitely a bit worn. There are dents, mainly in the driver's side quarter panel, but in the door and sides as well (I rolled into a snowbank during a blizzard on the way to Jackson one winter). I've got a crack in the windshield I haven't repaired. The car definitely looks well used, but it has lots of life left it it! The 4WD has been great in the mountains and the snow, the back is great for sleeping in when it's too wet to set up a tent, and I always amaze myself as to what I can fit into it! This car can carry a lot of lumber, and with the back window down, I've hauled 12 and 14-foot boards, no problem (It has a back window that rolls up and down along with a tailgate, not a hatchback). Get yourself a great all-around 4Runner on the cheap today! Contact via email with any questions or if you'd like to set up an appointment to see it. Priced to Sell! Color: Blue Miles: 162,011 Engine: 2.4L 116 HP 4 Cylinder Manual 5-Speed Transmission Contact me at daliusg at yahoodotcom if interested!
  7. Equipment for Bolivian Peaks

    I climbed in the Condoriri and few routes on Huayana Potosi and didn't use anything different than I do in the Cascades. I have like a 20 degree down bag, which coupled with some hot water bottles and fleece pants, was more than toasty. Don't own plastic boots so I used my leather Scarpa Cumbre's. No overboots, no gaiters. Granted, I wasn't out in a blizzard or any screaming winds, but this kind of equipment got me by just fine. Some warm mitts is all I needed for gloves. Did a fair amount of ice climbing with them as well. I'm guessing that things can get a little cold down there, but I did not experience anything different than the Cascades (except it was a lot sunnier!).
  8. Carlos Buhler @ Everett Community College

    Here the complete low-down: link ----------------------------------------------------------------- Mountain Climber and Photographer Carlos Buhler Speaks Jan. 15 at EvCC Visit the Russell Day Gallery and see Carlos Buhler's photography on display. EVERETT, WA – Professional photographer and climber Carlos Buhler will speak about his international climbing experiences at 6 p.m. Thursday, Jan. 15, 2009 in Baker Hall 120 at Everett Community College. Buhler’s photographs from climbing and travels in the Karakoram in Pakistan, including his ascent of K2, the world’s second highest peak, will be exhibited in EvCC’s Russell Day Gallery from Jan. 5 through Feb. 5. Gallery hours are 8 a.m.-7 p.m. Monday through Wednesday and 8 a.m.-4 p.m. Thursday and Friday. Buhler is one of the most accomplished mountain climbers in the world. During his 35-year career, he has climbed major peaks on five continents. His motivational lectures focus on reaching difficult goals through individual effort and teamwork. Buhler’s presentation and exhibit are part of a series of programs about EvCC’s Book of the Year, “Three Cups of Tea,” by Greg Mortenson and David Oliver Relin. The book recounts the journey that led Mortenson from a failed attempt to climb K2 to successfully establish schools in some of the most remote regions of Afghanistan and Pakistan. This event is sponsored by the Russell Day Gallery, the EvCC Library and supported by grant funds from Everett Community College Foundation. The Russell Day Gallery is located in the Parks Student Union at Everett Community College, 2000 Tower St. Everett, 98201.
  9. Carlos Buhler @ Everett Community College

    Word has at that the talk is going to be mostly on climbing, with a specific focus on interesting sub-6,000m peak routes. The photo exhibit is up and running in the gallery space. A reception will follow the presentation and will be held in the gallery space.
  10. Just an FYI: Everett Community College will be showing Carl's photography in their art gallery starting soon (definetely by Jan. 15th). Carl will be on campus Thurs, Jan. 15 giving a presentation/lecture. Not sure what the focus of the talk is going to be, but should be interesting! Here's the info from their website... linky ------------------------------------------------------------ Russell Day Gallery presents: Carlos Buhler - The Karakoram: People and Mountains Event description: Photographs from climbing and travels in the Karakoram including K2 Artist Presentation and Lecture: Baker 120 January 15, 2009 6:00 PM
  11. Fun at Harborview

    Hell yeah! Super psyched to hear you're out and on the mend. That's the best news I've heard in a long time. Cheers man.
  12. Zidane

    Agreed. The penalty kicks are a super lame way to end a great game. I'm no soccer buff, but somebody told me that they used to keep playing until someone finally scored, but ended that two world cups ago? It'd be way more exciting to see these guys run themselves into the ground and see who has the most stamina and skill to finally come out on top. The Zidane headbutt was awesome! I have more respect for the french now.
  13. Kurt injured?

    Holy crap. This is the first thread I've read in weeks. Here's to getting better soon!
  14. The ethics of climbing Everest

    sorry. missed that one.
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