DCramer

Yos, Go check out the route it is really amazing that he climbed that thing without using a hammer.

Jamie gets it! I know this site is more alpine oriented than rock but I am amazed that Jamie's feat generated so little in the way of comments. Climbing Artifice clean is hands down the most fully committed Cascade climbing I have read about on this board. I was so blown away that last night I dreamt that I was checking out the cam placements unroped high up on the route and then because they were so wild I had to scamper over to the bomber jams on City Park so I wouldn't fall off! (Hey it's a dream) For those who don't know Artifice starts up the Bat Skins "arch" just left of City Park. It soon breaks away from the arch a climbs straight up a crack/seam to an old two-bolt station and then follows an even thinner crack past a bolt and some fixed heads to a point where it ends. From there a swing is made to Bat Skins which is followed to a belay at a small ledge. The route continues on with easier climbing. Unless they have been replaced, the bolts would be hard pressed to hold a long fall. I'd bet my next paycheck that a fall from the tension traverse with only cam hooks and the odd fixed piece for protection would be a grounder. Did he even bring a hammer? Amazing! I am going to have to pack a beer every time I go to Index just in case I run into him!

I believe most the umbrella regulations governing rock climbing were developed in the 1990's. Early in the decade the State Parks Dept. held a series of meetings with climbers (and other interested user groups)at several locations around the state. The umbrella regulations were developed out of these interactions. Several meetings directly concerning climbing at the Town Walls have been held with the Parks Dept. staff responsible for their managment. They have all been very congenial. My impression is that events like the annual clean-up have continued to maintain this relationship. The Index Town Walls with the exception of most of the Lower Wall and possibly the Lower Lump is essentially an undeveloped state park. The Parks Dept. is interested in acquiring the remaining privately owned parcels as part of the Skykomish Scenic River Rec. Corridor. Development of the area is contingent upon the Parks Dept. acquiring land that could be used to safely access the crags. That is to say the RR crossing isn't up to their code right now. I spoke with the staff that manage the Town Walls and specifically asked if the Walls would be closed to climbing due to budget reductions. I was told that that given the undeveloped nature of the area a closure didn't seem very likely at all.

Well the location is approximately the same; however, the block I mean was about 4' tall and met its demise last year sometime. I guess this illustrates just how many loose blocks exist! Darryl [ 11-21-2002, 10:42 AM: Message edited by: DCramer ]

quote: Originally posted by Mr. Natural: [QB]btw, I have heard that the "best line" whatever that means, is to start on green drag on and traverse over to TC for the x3 roofs pitch. has anyone done this? [QB] I am sure you can get from the GD to the TC but only have experience with the reverse direction. If you do it, let me know how it goes. A new variation exists on the TC route. Variation: On the chimney pitch of TC (2nd pitch) stop at the top of 12 Angry Bees. From there climb more or less straight up past a corner and then up a vertical crack to rejoin the route near the top of the regular third pitch. I am told this pitch is C2 and that it is a better way to go. The loose block indicated in the topo in Sky Valley Rock is now at the base of the route. Also, the bolted anchor below Smokeout Ledge #1 shown in the same topo doesn't exist. Stupid guidebook writers! If you do the variation, post a reply here or send me a PM giving more details. The second pitch of GD may be a bit damp. Darryl [ 11-21-2002, 10:33 AM: Message edited by: DCramer ]

Keep up the good work Andy! The Access Fund is an important group to keep active. I remember working on the Castle Rock trail project. On the day I worked I was the only climber! The other volunteers were hikers who thought it would be a fun project. I just wanted to add that one benefit of the Access Fund that is intangible but perhaps one of the most valuable is the quick and easy contact point with land managers that the Access Fund provides. Our active participation however small or large in events, projects and fundraisers strengthens this contact point. If the list of past accomplishments doesn't inspire participation, think of the future problems that will be either avoided or minimized by the existence of an Access Fund with a strong and cordial relationship with land managers. In all of my contacts with either Forest Service of State Parks Dept. staff they have mentioned both Andy and the Access Fund as a legitimate and effective resource for climbers. That they do so attests to the high quality work it has been doing. Darryl

The plan is to meet at the trailhead at 9:00am. We’ll have an extra pair of clippers so don’t be shy.

I must have made a mistake writing your # down. Please give me a ring.

Matt - Sounds like guidebook writer is an idiot! I haven't actually done that variation but other feedback suggests that it is a bit harder than .10a. Maybe 10c?

Mr. W - Your posting privileges are hereby revoked until further notice! I actually had a so-called "partner" cancel on me this am for a Sunday trip to those very crags you mentioned. One word of warning tho - don't go in hot weather!!!!! If I can figure out how to get my SCSI card working I'll scan some pics.

Cavey - Who Put the Purr Happy Puppy Them Lamar's Trust G-M Davis Holland/Town Crier to Big Honker Magic Fern Aid Town Crier: Belay at the anchor for 12 angry Bees then climb LFC and crack straight up to rejoin route at belay below Triple roofs. Loose block noted on topo is at the base of the wall. Green Dragon

Will Since you probably lost it here is an updated (and better) Index hit list. No particular order. 1 Jap Gardens/10% 5.11 Thin crack and face 2 Clay First pitch only. 5.11 Every kind of crack imaginable 3 Davis Holland/STP 5.10/5.11 Thin crack/face 4 Stern Farmer Thin Crack 5.12 5 Bobcat Cringe - Might be dirty great climb thin crack/face5.12 6 Dirty Laundry - Same as Bobcat Cringe 5.11+ 7 Heart's Desire face 5.11 8 Princely Ambitions then TR the Snow White Route. 9 Godzilla/Sloe Children 5.10 - Then TR Batskins (Stemming) 10 Iron Horse Thru Roof or via Sag Roof. Pro is kinda funky thru the Iron Horse roof if you don't know what it is. 11 Shirley 5.11 stemming 12 Thin Fingers/Death To Zeke 5.11 13 Fifth Force face 5.12 If it's hot check these two out! 14 Toxic Shock 5.8 hand crack 15 Even Steven 5.11 thin crack Oh Yea 16 Breakfast of Champs.Marginal Karma 5.10/5.11 Plus another couple dozen I am forgetting.

Index = Center of the universe There use to be T-shirts available proclaiming that fact!

Actually the tied swami aint so bad. I used one occasionally even to the early 90's. (w/ leg loops usually) The Vertical Club even asked me not to use one in the gym. I have come across one Cascadian's (who intitials his full length tied slings) slings at rappels from Colorado to Yosemite.

I believe that the idea of setting anchors in strategic locations to reduce trail erosion from climbers was one that was endorsed by the D.O.W. after discussion with some climber groups (FCCC?) including the Access Fund.

OK Ray here is the secret - A - Slim Fast! B - Bike riding! C - Took over cooking dinner from my wife! I was 206 sometime last year. In the 80s I was high 130s to 150s. 90s sure were hard. Only advantage to being big is you don't get cold.

Ray - Sad part is 10lbs were because I got really sick! I think that from just before the first bolt to the top you'd be running it out if the biggest thing you brought was a 3". If I remember the crack is too big for a #4 friend most of the way too, at least that was my impression at the time. At the top it thins down a bit and I bet you could get a #4 friend. Hard to remember we did that climb a long time ago. You seem psyched on Index. It is a great place. Now that I've lost weight I want to start climbing more, hope to meet you out there sometime. Of course if you have some secret cleaning project you could always invite me along.

We should start a competition.

Offer rejected, offer rescinded. Ray - I don't have any hard feelings just a bit of boredom at work. If you take them down, you don't need to send them too me. But if you do remove them don't chop - pull and fill the holes. Erik - You're probably right I am not much of a drinker. But I have lost 22lbs since 1/1/02 so I have alot of room somewhere. Darryl

Sorry Erik the proposition is to Ray only: "Ray – I put those bolts in and perhaps I made an error. God knows I have made a bunch over the years. So I have a proposition for you."

Erik - 60 Days from today. Ray - Glad your game. By the way at the Pub Club you had better drink fast as I intend to drink most of the $100.00!

Oh yea we need to have a witness we both agree to.

Ray – I put those bolts in and perhaps I made an error. God knows I have made a bunch over the years. So I have a proposition for you. You go lead the route from the level of the first bolt on using only 2”-3” pieces. I’ll even let you throw in one 4” piece. The only restrictions are that you can’t preview the route in anyway before climbing it and all pieces on your rack have to be standard pieces that would be normally found on an average rack and you can't clip any bolts. If you accept this challenge and actually go to the route with the intent of ascending it I’ll donate $25.00 to buy beers at the next pub club even if you decide not to climb it with the restrictions of this proposition. If you actually climb it using only the 2”-3” rack with one 4” piece, I’ll throw in an additional $25.00. If after succeeding you think it is adequately protected (ie “G” rated) I’ll contribute another $25.00. If you can get Erik to agree with the “G” rating the pot will increase another $25.00. I say Erik because he is one of the few regulars here I know. So the total pot comes to $100.00 for a future Pub Club. If Erik agrees to hold the cash, he can pick it up at my house next time he comes through Seattle. Offer expires after 60 days. Darryl

Some of the cracks can be wet even after a few days of sun. You might want to consider that when deciding on attire. As far as booty goes I would leave fixed pins fixed. Green Dragon has many section s of free climbing and several people have worked on freeing parts of the remaining aid sections. On several occasions climbers have returned for free attempts only to find critical pins removed.

Andy is correct that the climbing is in Iron Horse State Park and thus the closure of Olallie Park doesn’t close Deception Crags, but the response I received (this am)from my voice message to State Parks while acknowledging this fact also clearly stated that while access through Olallie could not be prevented it would be [direct quote] "highly discouraged." The person who left the message was Virginia Painter of the State Parks Department. {Her phone number is available via PM} While in practical terms everyone seems to agree that access won’t be affected, I encourage everyone to go ahead and contact the State Parks and say that continued access to the crags is important!