DCramer

I went to the meeting last night and I do not think that there was any attempt to exclude anyone from this site. Mister E, DavidW, Das Bull, Mattp me and several other posters were there. My understanding is that today’s meeting isn’t really an appropriate forum for a large group of climbers. A small group was going to meet share concerns and go on a site visit to Mt. Garfield. Nothing is being decided at this point. As far as bolting, I find myself stuck in the middle somewhere having developed many routes across the state I want no restrictions however, over the years I have seen the term “route developer “come into use and realize that there is a lot of baggage that comes with such a designation. Long term the issues are much broader than Mt Garfield, hopefully the WCC will not only be a useful tool in working with land managers and climbing “issues” but keep the issues from appearing in the first place. DC EDIT: I did not help organize the meeting and I had a few beers so remember the above is just one man's understanding.

Jake - This route starts to the left of the one with the bolts. When are you off for the summer?

I corrected an error in the first post. Thanks for the handy PM!

I received this email yesterday - Anyway, the first pitch is dirty, which is inevitable. The rest of the route is in good shape. No dust this time. Thank you for the use of the wired brush, both of us used it on lead, mostly on the first pitch. If it is going to stay clean, it needs more ascents! Here is the route she was talking about – Climbs the largest corner system on the left [sorry this said right earlier] hand side of the Upper Wall. The second pitch is one of the longest at the Town Walls. Bring extra of the 2 1/2" to 3 1/2" sizes. Start at the tree right of Biology of Small Appliances. P1 Climb a short dirty section up and right to another tree. Climb an obvious crack up to a ledge. From there it is best to move right and then scramble up to huge ledge. (5.8) P2 Start up the right of two cracks. After about 20’ move to the left crack which is followed for 110’ to a nice ledge.(5.9/10) P3 A short (40 ft.) pitch leads to the top.(5.7/8) It has only seen a couple of ascents. Watch out for falling rocks, trash and trees walking along the base of the wall.

This is several years old. At one point Dallas had looked it over. I think the bolts are off but it may help you to get oriented. This has never had a test run so as always use at own risk. 349346-new erie.pdf

Dru will of course forward any copies of Private Dancer to me. While I was looking for old photos of Index I was at the house of an avid guidebook collector when he brought me into a spare room opened a safe an we spent a few hours looking at old guides and letters from some legends in American climbing describing FAs they had done or trying to sell their ideas for the coming season. It got me thinking how cheap phone calls, faxes, website and email having replaced traditional letters have in some ways destroyed history.

I haven't been to the crag in your picture but have put some routes up on nearby crags. The logging sure has improved access.

I hope so!

Once I left my pack at Index and it was on my front porch when made it home later that evening. I did not know the guy who found it but he looked my address up in the phone book and found out where I lived!

Name your price!

Forwarded. The email was just a suggestion that this ongoing saga would be worth an article.

Newstips - This is a great subject. Read this thread: here Also, did you receive the email I sent you regarding this matter on 4/23? Darryl

Someone ran off with my copy. Anyone willing to part with theirs? PM me if you are! DC

The Pressure Drop Rock and the Coffee Achievers Cliff both have fun TRs. The TRs can be set up easily with tree anchors. Most of the routes would take a bit of scrubbing before being really clean but only a little to make them possible. They are a fun way to finish off the day after climbing an Upper Wall route. Pressure Drop Routes worth spending time on: Pressure Drop .11a - Great finger jams! Probably clean enough right now. Blaim it On Cain .11c - Probably wet this time of year. Errol Flynn...12 - Technical lieback jamming. Crux section easily cleaned. The top lower angle section will be difficult to clean but you can just lower off. Coffee Achievers Cliff routes - Universal language .11+ - Boulder sequence at the start; stemming up higher. Easy clean job. Let's Go Crazy .11c Thin jams and face climbing up unique rock. Stays hard until the top. OK I'll shut up now. DC

Down and to the left of the Old Milwaukee Tree (the starting point for The Curious Cube & Static Cling) is a somewhat new pitch. I think it is about 5.7+. Does anyone know if this joins CC at the top of the first pitch? If not, is there a second pitch? DC

Those Lookout Point routes all should have new bolts. The JG pitch is just left of CVB. There should be a new anchor (I think in a slightly different position) Also, on the slab pitch of 10% the old anchor (three bolts) has been removed and not replaced. I think a single bolt should be installed there but there isnt one now. Reaching the bolt from that ledge might be difficult.

There are a whole bunch of “lost classics” Here is a short list: Racer X/Beetle Bailey - I think the first pitch has become overgrown. Racer X is a fun moderate face climb. Beetle Bailey is a bit more difficult and is a combination of crack/face climbing but I am sure it has become dirty and the fps are certainly suspect assuming that they still exist. Pitch 3 Japanese Gardens Now dirty and guarded by killer berry bushes this as a corner with a crack very similar to Sloe Children. (I guess you can add the 4th pitch to this list as well.) Wilman’s Walkabout – The start has become dirty. The first pitch is very short (45’) and .11c. The second pitch which should be combined with the first is a fun corner. (.11a) This corner has difficult and enjoyable crack climbing but very rarely climbed. If .11c is harder than you want it can be approached via the direct start to Sedan Delivery with a pull or two (A0) past its crux. The Direct Start is another lost classic as is the full Sedan Delivery. I think a fp has been stolen from the Direct Start. Dark Crystal – First pitch is dirty. Eraserhead – Now dirty. Fun face climbing. Last year at least Free Cat and End Run looked pretty clean.

Ok I thought about it and considering the time of year. The STP may have a wet crack and the very top of Clay may be damp. So maybe the LW is a better choice. Sadly Index seems to be not very popular lately - well with the exception of a select few routes. This creates a spiral of dirt and more neglect and more dirt and more....

Lower Wall Godzilla to Sloe Children is nice. Try Jap Gardens to 10% - - To my mind the best crag route in the State. The slab pitches have some bolts but you still need pro. An old anchor midway up the slab has been removed. Climb Thin Fingers or Shirley and then traverse over to NA Direct. Super cool climbing. First pitch of NA Direct is 12c but a very short aidable crux. Upper Wall Davis-Holland to the STP is good. STP was within the last month the subject of a TR. Clay - the first pitch is awesome! Everything from Fist to fingers. If you are just coming for a weekend don't buy a book just look at Clint's online stuff. DC

Decide on what needs to be replaced and I can provide supplies for chain and link replacement. I don’t climb at 38 that often but I remember some set-ups not having hangers. Instead they rely on a washer/chain system. If these anchors can be modified to include hangers (a better set up in my opinion), I can provide those as well. Maybe Garth or CBS can get something going. The supplies/funds for this come from community donations.

Here is a photo of a friend's home gym.

Lots of people were messing around on the boulders below Zekes last weekend.

For a time a small group of climbers were trying to put up extreme sport routes. I believe this was more of an abandoned exploration than a route.

Here are some wide cracks at Index that weren’t mentioned in the L-Worth thread. Happy Puppy – Inner Walls – 5.9 Not really a wide crack but it does have a short section of flared fist/chimney Behind the Eight Ball – Inner Walls – 5.10 Narrow Arrow Direct (final pitch) – Lower Wall - 5.10 Another Man’s Car – (first Pitch) – Upper Wall – 5.? A huge flake inside the crack fell out and the crack is now very different than before. Not sure how hard it is but it is definitely a steep testpiece. Town Crier– Upper Wall There is a short flare near the top. At Darrington there is always Conan’s Crack! DC

I was saddened last week when I first heard of Larry’s accident and this weekend while at Smith Rocks I thought of him every morning and every evening as I walked under the Picnic Lunch Wall. If my memory is correct back 1974 he was part of a team that made the first free ascent of the wall. Although over the last decade Larry pretty much abandoned rock climbing in favor of biking, for many years he was a fixture in the NW rock climbing community. I fondly remember spending many days climbing, cleaning new routes and avoiding his insatiable quest for photo subjects. While I may not have wanted to be photographed I certainly enjoyed his many fine photographs. My favorite is one of Andy Deklerk climbing Biology of Small Appliances. (5.12, Index) At first glance the picture seems like a typical photograph until you notice that Andy’s shoes are untied! All those who knew him will miss Larry’s enthusiasm, boundless energy, and slightly off kilter sense of humor. Darryl