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Don't forget about I-rock in the summer. It's worth the slog, especially with lift assisted approaches. Solo the S. Chamber & climb over the skylights on the ridge for some excitement. There are also some 5.10 sport routes, if you're into carting your gear on a 2 hour approach. I call it Crisco Crack. I'm sure I'm not the first.

OMC used to carry it

Bump. Any word on this project? Any other Canadian Rockies ice/alpine guidebooks recommended?

From Seattle PI: http://seattlepi.nwsource.com/local/aplocal_story.asp?category=6420&slug=OR%20Climber%20Death My condolences to his family and friends.

Exactly so. Hence my comment about it depends, particularly on how much snow is in the basin. I did it June 15th on an average snow year and there was snow everywhere except the very bottom of the basin where the slabs were exposed. We did see the bottom of the mentioned waterfall/watercourse and traversed below that, with another bit of vertical lost.

Hey Klenke, When we did it, your topo would have taken us under a gargantuan cornice that had already split away from snow at the top. Yikes. The diamond is just the entrance to the same gulley you have the line drawn up. It's kind of a big gulley with a little gulley in the southwest corner of it. I can see these details in the topo, so I hope I'm making sense. I guess the answer is also "It depends", especially depending on whether there's a bunch of snow in there or not.

Consider just doing Old Snowy and tacking on Ives if you're doing well on time. Head in via Snowgrass flats. See Old Snowy in Cascade Select Vol. I and many other places. Dog can do the Old Snowy route from PCT. Dog can get close to the summit of Ives, but it's blocky and steep off the back side. Did Curtis Gilbert from Cispus Basin last year. That was great. Leave the dog at home for that trip or he'll be chasing goats. Not cool.

These two plans are the same plan. I'm sure there are other ways to get back to Sahale Arm, but that gulley is a sure thing, and the recommended way to get out of Horseshoe Basin. There's extensive beta lurking in the NC forums regarding Boston Basin and Sharkfin Col. There is even an alternate "easier" way over the ridge. Search is your friend or one of the search-bots will prolly post the links here if you beg enough. The Sahale Arm approach was fantastic when I did it a few years ago. That was the closest I've come to bagging a climb and still finishing the thing. Boston Basin was socked in, the clouds were pouring in. We rigged a rap line to drop back to camp off Sahale. Just before we rapped the sun came up and in 5 minutes the clouds vamosed and we had a bluebird day. Also the only time I've witnessed a marmot brawl. They were squealing, fur was flying. Must be the marmot rut. The traverse around Boston Peak is, um, spectacular and exciting. Go soon. Take a couple pickets and screws, primarily to protect the berg crossing. Good on ya if you glissade the S. face. There's a few rocks and cliff bands here and there....

Hey folks, A quick shout out and big update to you folks. First, to those well wishers: And to those armchair quarterbacks: Now, on to the dealio: We took off from Pole Creek to do EMC. We came out of the trees a bit north of it and in the dark ended up just to the north on a small ridge above EMC. We stopped as the sun was coming up as there was a bunch of cloud cover activity. As the sun rose this seemed to dissapate, and we kept climbing after a very long break. We hit the N. Ridge a few hundred meters from Glisan. The instant we went from the E. face to the W. it was a whole new ball game. Stonker styrofoam, dark and solid. We soloed under Glisan, up the bowling alley, to the summit. I think it was the dark, bomber conditions on the W. face that helped sucker us in. It felt to me like 7:00 am, but must have been more like 10 or so when we summitted. By this time it was bluebird. It was kind of steep in the bowling alley and we were looking for alternate routes down. We'd seen another party of 2 on Thayer HW, headed down. We could see avy debris from the morning that had released between their descent and ours. Thought it should be clear after running a couple times.... So we dropped in. After around 1500' of downclimbing we hit the HW and were just starting to poke around for a rap anchor when a small slough just took off and grew pretty big in a few seconds. I had a chance to take a couple steps and it was on me. I dropped on my axe but it pulled me off instantly. Then it was over the falls without a barrel, down the Thayer HW, inside the slide. I was under for this point and pretty freaked by the roller-coaster ride. During this time I felt my lower legs break. After the slope mellowed I got my arm out, then kind of just peeled the slide off and got my upper body out as it slowed down. I hadn't tumbled, but remained upright, just rotating from self-arrest to sliding on my right hip to sitting on my butt when I stopped. Nothing was burried except my lower legs. I took stock and realized my left leg was "mildly" broken and right leg was tib-fib. I got my pack off and threw on my DAS, then started dealing with my leg. I tried moving the right foot to splint it but figured I'd wait a bit and see if the cavalry showed up, as it was a bit sensitive. One partner had gotten pulled down with me and was a 150 yards or so uphill of me. I could just see her out of the corner of my eye. The guys who didn't get caught immediately called 911 before starting to downclimb. Since they hit the other climber first they stopped and tended to her. They relayed her status to SAR via 911 and then one proceded to me and helped me splint the right leg. By this time LifeFlight had dropped 4 responders on the scene and headed out for another load. As they came in the cavalry arrived in the form of 2 blackhawks and a bunch of National Guard guys. There were probably 12 folks running around getting us prepped to lift. Before the Blackhawks showed they were lowering Nancy to ease the lift for LifeFlight, but then just dropped her in the basket and raised her in the Blackhawk. She was transported to Sisters, transferred to LifeFlight and off to St. Charles. They flew me out in the second Blackhawk, transferred to an ambulance in Sisters, and off to St. Charles. I was adamant about my gear, and talked both the EMT's and ER staff into taking my gear off the hard way. I managed to avoid destroying any gear. Then into surgery, getting a plate on the right tibia, screw in the left fibula. Both legs splinted to recover from the trauma. Spent 6+ days at St. Charles with great care. Now I'm back in PDX, cast on right leg, walking cast on the left. Total of 2 months in the wheelchair, then onto crutches. Looks like I may have some MCL damage on the left knee as well. Just had a MRI yesterday, don't know the results yet. Overall a lot of good luck and hard work on the part of SAR, LifeFlight, Nat'l Guard, Sisters sherrif and rescue squad. Thanks to all those folks who assisted in getting our butts out of there so quickly. Also another big thanks to the staff at St. Charles and all those who have rushed to help me out.

Precip or eVent if you may get rained on. It's super light, pretty effective, and very breathable.

I just made $60 by taking my original (1998) Altimax back to REI w/ the same problem. They have the Altimax at Costco for $115 or so around PDX. Also, REI used to have Suunto battery replacement kits. This kit contains a spare battery (duh) but also contains a new O-ring and cover. It's possible that swapping out these new parts could fix your issue (at least with the watch). If the watch is in good shape it may be worth checking this out.

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/s...true#Post168829 Unfortunately, most of the links are dead, but there's some basic info there that may help.

NEWS from CPSC U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission Office of Information and Public Affairs Washington, DC 20207 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE March 11, 2005 Release # 05-134 Firm’s Recall Hotline: (800) 826-1598 CPSC Recall Hotline: (800) 638-2772 CPSC Media Contact: (301) 504-7908 CPSC, Montrail Inc. Announce Recall of Crampons; Products Used for Ice Climbing and Mountaineering WASHINGTON, D.C. - The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission announces the following recall in voluntary cooperation with the firm below. Consumers should stop using recalled products immediately unless otherwise instructed. Name of product: Crampons (used for ice climbing and mountaineering) Units: 969 pairs Manufacturer: Montrail Inc., of Seattle, Wash. Hazard: The vertical rails at the front of these crampons can break, which could result in falls and injuries to consumers. Incidents/Injuries: Montrail has received three reports of crampons breaking. No injuries were reported. Description: The recall includes models I354, I356, and K364 sold under brand names I.C.E. 9 and Khumbu. The recall includes products with UPC numbers beginning with 619120036 and ending with 204, 211, 46! 4, or 457. These model and UPC numbers are listed only on the packaging, but not on the products themselves. Sold at: Outdoor equipment retailers nationwide from September 2003 through Feb. 1, 2005 for between $135 and $185. Manufactured in: Korea Remedy: Consumers should stop using these crampons immediately and contact Montrail to find out how to return them and for further recall details. Consumer Contact: Contact Montrail toll-free at (800) 826-1598 between 8 a.m. and 5 p.m. PST Monday through Friday.

I remember someone posted a link of Mike Clelland's drawing of glacial features a while back. Anyone have a link or file they'd be willing to share?

At the beginning of this forum is a sticky note w/ a link to the Climbing Conditions page put up by the rangers. It answers all of the ?'s you listed. http://www.nps.gov/mora/climb/climb_cd.htm It shows an ascent by rangers up the ID. It recommends traversing to the DC, however. Gib Ledges is still in as of the 4/26 report.

As an old friend once said, "Well, you might take one look at that route and swallow your tongue". True dat. Of course, he sailed up it one day after we got out with a few cracked ribs, a tweaked knee, and a crevasse fall after getting pummelled at TR w/ high winds, lotsa snow, full effect. Weather is key and so far we're just not getting much love from Ra. Let's hope May finally brings some decent Wx.

fresh filets Here in PDX you can get a Chinese Spyderco knock-off w/ serrated blade for $2-3 at Next Adventure. Tie a cord on it, throw it on a BD accessory wiregate (the metal one).

Was on top a week or so ago and looked down the N. Side. Everything looks pretty well covered, so w/ good freezing at night it should be in good shape. It's pretty efficient to start N. face climbs from Timberline this time of year. It's "only" 3 miles to Cooper spur. For doing the Elliot the only drawback might be losing vert to get down there.

Did SS last weekend, Sat. April 9 w/ David, David, Preston. High winds & snow to top o' palmer, better Wx afterwards. Snow conditions good, from windcrust to 8" wind deposits. Hogsback & chute in good condition, good steps, not too icy. Downclimbed 150' into Old Chute & strapped skis on for the first turn of the season dropping in. Skied down into whiteout at top of Palmer again on pretty good snow by Crater Rock & Ill Saddle. Good day and great timing on the Wx window, D

how do you smoke 12 feet of banana? The hard part is getting it lit. :spliff: Hey, where's the smokin' gremlin?

Can you edit the post?

Oregon Climbers Tsunami/Disaster Relief Fundraiser Featuring 2004 Mazamas Ama Dablam Expedition Slide Show Raffle following presentation Monday, January 24, 2004 7-9pm Hollywood Theatre 4122 NE Sandy Blvd Suggested donation $10 at the door All donations benefit Mercy Corps and NW Medical Teams Major sponsors: Hollywood Theatre, ClimbMax, and Mazamas A team of nine Portlanders traveled to Nepal last Oct/Nov to climb Ama Dablam (22,500ft) - one of the most beautiful, technical mountains in the world. The show is the best of the 1500 photos and three hours of video. See Kathmandu, the trek to Everest Base Camp, and 7500ft of climbing including over 3000ft of near-vertical rock, ice and snow. Please feel free to distribute this to your friends, relatives, neighbors. For a taste of the slideshow, see some of the photos online at http://members19.clubphoto.com/monty672735/2828230/owner-af20.phtml A climb writeup can be found at http://www.climber.org/TripReports/2004/1364.html If interested, a poster was created and is available both for viewing (jpg) as well as download at http://www.angelfire.com/rock3/montys/ We hope to see you next Monday!

REI but you've got to haggle sometimes Patagonia flawless BD awesome, awesome, awesome TNF weak, although if you spend $5 at US Outdoor Store in PDX they seem to get stuff fixed or replaced, probably just due to the volume of returns they do.

Once they're in the photos, use the Image tag: Sweet shots. 12 days until I head for Ouray.

Just got my add-on griprests today from PMS. I think the problem you're having is they snap into the biner hole in the bottom of the spike. Try spreading the gap with screwdriver or really sharp knife and then you'll probably get it out.