jaee

The G14 is a great crampon, it is my first choice for waterfall ice. But it would not be my first choice for an all-around crampon for use in the Cascades. This is because of weight, insufficient front-point area, and cost. What's wrong w/ the G14 frontpoints?

Carry 'em until it isn't fun anymore. Good places to ditch gear: Triangle moraine, ~9500', Devil's Kitchen 10200', Hogsback, 10700'. Their all pretty obvious when the vis is good. If it's bad, rethink stashing your skis if you want to find them again.

I assume you'll only accept UTM

This one is a Hood cliche. Tried doing Leuthold's way back in the day and did Reid Headwall instead. I don't think my partner that day ever climbed with me again. All he had was a 75 cm aluminum headed cassin.

Ditto. I was up at 17k for 4 days in '98 also. I think it was June 1-4. Even w/ cloudy weather I could feel it at -25° in my Feathered Friends -25° bag w/ 2 oz of overfill. Slept in my down pants, goretex, & fleece. I usually stay pretty warm, but after a few days of hanging around w/ no activity it started getting pretty chilly at night. Feathered friends used to rent -40 bags for like $50. Is this still going on? It's a pretty good deal unless you plan on doing more Ak trips, winter in New England, or Himalayan trips.

Hey, it's even got cambered apexes.

Just think about laying on a siltarp will turn it into cheesecloth if there's rock or sand nearby. I've seen some ultralight guys use Tyvek (the building material) or mylar. Tyvek seems like a good idea, but I imagine the mylar would be a bit noisy. I think there are guys selling precut Tyvek chunks out on the internet for use as tarps. A bit more spendy, but still pretty light, is the OR winter sack. It's a sleeping bag cover made of dryloft. Not recommended for heavy precip, though. Don't know if they're still making them, but they're under a pound and can be zipped up.

They start at zero, too. That's just wrong.

Guess that settles that. 3 folks at CC.com for, none against. Looks like everyone is carrying shovels & probes from now on. Current Mazama policy only requires at least 2 shovels & probes be provided on climbs. Usually more shovels show up with climbers. The problem with regulating this sort of thing is that if you say "everyone needs a shovel" on a climb and someone forgets their shovel, you have to cancel the climb or you're negligent. So, we try to avoid specific guidelines or hard numbers. It's also the ski vs. climb mentality. I know most climbers don't carry probes or even beacons most of the time. Most skiers do. Kind of a double standard, don't you think?

I wouldn't start to leave shovels behind until after we hit 4 or more. I did say a group size of 6-8 in the previous post. I'd also always have shovels & probes for at least 1/2 the people.

Having run rescue scenarios with up to 12 people on the rescue team I'd say that 2 beacons & 2 shovels is more than enough unless there's more than 2 victims. Even so, more beacons don't make searches go faster. More shovels can, but most recoveries still seem to happen somewhat serially even with plenty of personnel. Next time you're practicing searching for a beacon see if having 3 people dig the hole at the same time is faster than one.

Volkswagen isn't selling them in the US anymore. http://www.vw.com/search/search_eurovan.htm Just when I was thinking a Westfalia AWD van would be the ultimate climbing rig.

Looking for a little debate on the following: Should everyone on a BC ski trip, regardless of group size, carry a shovel and probe in avalanche terrain? This assumes everyone is already beeping. Also assume it's a big group, say 6-8 people. Pros: Always have more than enough shovels Cons: Extra group gear adds up, especially on multi-day trips. Please discuss

Picked up set of these but they feel so weird I haven't tried them out yet. A good idea, though, especially for clipper leashes.

Just switched from ClubSports to 24 Hour. Paid the extra bucks for the initiation fee and now have $4.99/month plan. Beats the $80+ monthly fee even losing the rock gym. There are a bunch of hotties at both. ClubSports does have that extra snob factor. For an extra charge you can use the executive locker room.

rock: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/211645/page/4/view/collapsed/sb/5/o/all/fpart/1 ice: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/295049/page/0/view/collapsed/sb/5/o/all/fpart/1/vc/1 Do a search on Alpenjager for the rock, Gorge Ice or Crown Jewel for the ice. Let us know how it goes. Might be a bit damp right now...

Dude, we've seen your velcro gloves. When I lived in Bozeman the guys that make these things would come in during the graveyard shift at Kinko's and get me to burn hundreds of copies of their flyer. I was floored that they were making a business of it. Get a lot of interesting folks in a small town copy shop in the middle of the night. Lambone, do you know these guys?

323.5. But, the thing is rigged. The speed of the penguin changes a little randomly each time around. So, there's really no skill involved other than clicking at about the right time. Ever notice you'd seem to get the hang of it and then a big whiff? Do you really want to gamble against computers?

Is the DSL modem also a router? Are there multiple ports on it for your systems? If so you probably need to setup port forwarding on the appropriate tcp/udp ports so they get passed on to your system. They're currently being blocked inbound by the router. If this seems like it may be the problem, PM me w/ the specifics of the DSL modem/router (mfg, model #) and I'll at least try to get you hooked up w/ Kazaa. You should use Kazaa Lite anyway to avoid spyware.

Schwing!

You know the drill. Show your trailer park == fatty tie-in data. This doesn't count

better yet, click here to skip the info gathering page and just get the file. Although it's a bit tame. Where's the figure 4 or heel hooks.

Unless she got some twin tips or should I say

I'll echo the sentiment. Even if you're looking for a non-existant ice-runnel, eh? Definitely some of the most consistently good conditions I've seen on Hood. The best line would be the west face below Crater Rock. I'd have thrashed through the grimness on the upper Palmer if I hadn't seen your lines looking so sweet, Iain. Kinda grabby down low, but a solid 9 for a big mountain ski.

Minas Tirith