jaee

Garfield while the road's still open.

In a recent discussion a summit register was called trash. The poster also said that he hoped it was removed. What's your opinion?

Lambone, by T I think he means a deadman anchor using the axe. A single picket driven into the snow would be good only for the static weight of climber while you are escaping from holding the fall. Unless it took a hammer to drive that picket you'll want to add more points of pro to extract the fallen climber. With a C on a Z you've got a 6:1. That means the forces on the anchor will be in excess of 6x the climber's weight. This is where you'll want to at least double up the pro. Typically you'll need to work harden the snow and place deadman anchors to handle the load. Again, if driven w/ a hammer a couple vertical pickets would probably do. There's a slick method of the C on a Z where you just add a 3rd pully in the system w/ a prussik. This has to be reset more often but is much simpler than adding another anchor for the C. Also, a releasable prussik (munter mule) on the main anchor is something that everyone should use, especially in situations where there is no other help available. I'll try to dig up a pic of this setup.

But petzl is a Euro company and pink, purple, bright blue, etc are still (considered) fashionable there.

Guess that settles that.

Lost 7/24/04 in or above lower scree gully.

Only on the internet: List of Collective Nouns for Birds How about a murder of crows. That's fitting around here sometimes.

C and S Engineering Remember, the shop tour shows only abou 1/3 of their webbing C and S Shop Tour

If it was 40° then and it is 50° now and by steeper you mean at a greater angle and by gotten you mean has become, then the answer should be obvious to the most casual observer.

I'll get some pics up this week.

Climb: Shuksan-Fisher Chimneys Date of Climb: 7/17/2004 Trip Report: Hiked in to Lake Ann Friday afternoon under bluebird skies. Pleasant temperatures and not too many bugs yet. Rolled out of camp around 3:30 Saturday morning and headed up the chimneys. Routefinding is straightforward if you've looked at any route descriptions. The "big boulder" is key in Beckey's description above the talus field. Head for the right side of it and you're in the groove. Chimneys are clear and mostly dry. Winnie's Slide is a tad over 50° and 175' high. Bottom of the upper Curtis is solid ice. We climbed up the ice then traversed directly up and over the Upper Curtis. No problems w/ crevasses. Hell's Highway is ~45° and maybe 120' high thru the steep section. The berg is still mostly closed. Sulphide in great shape, w/ just a few narrow slots we stepped over. We kept near the climber's left and headed for the rock island down low to ditch crampons. We climbed the gulley, which was a little mankier than I'd expected. Downsloping slabs and lots of loose plates. After a long break on the summit we did a couple raps and downclimbed thru the gulley. The descent was long and uneventful. We downclimbed the rock to get off the Upper Curtis and threw in a couple pickets down Winnie's Slide, for safety. Go get it. It's in fine shape right now. Gear Notes: Used: Couple pickets Tat/webbing for rapping Shoulda had: Couple rap rings to throw on the wad of stuff in the gulley. Approach Notes: Just a little snow before Lake Ann. Bugs will be bad soon.

<bump> Anyone been in here yet? I'm heading in next weekend and would like to know how much snow is left in the chimneys.

Might be a good strategy in a group. You don't have to be faster than the bear, just faster than other party members.

Slipped off between camp & whitewater TH 6/19. Will identify if found.

John marked most of his rock gear w/ two thin strips of electrical tape.

Heading in Friday for Jeff Park. Any info out there on the approach or route?

Get a small (1/2" x 8") flat bastard file for the tip. This is big enough to handle and small enough to carry with you. You can use this for the top to the pick, but a 1/2 round of the same size will work better. The top was ground on a round wheel and the 1/2 round will fit the profile better w/ less material removed. For the teeth, the main requirement is that the round file fit inside the teeth. The closer it is to the original size, the better and the less material you'll remove. This means you can sharpen it more. The warning Gadd had was that you shouldn't try to use a flat or triangular file to sharpen the inside of the tooth as you'll inevitably nick the edge and create a local stress riser (weak point) on the edge of the groove. Ths would be the first place a highly stressed pick would break. Probably not so important if your M leading ability isn't above a 5 or so, as I doubt you'll be pulling all the pick camming and torquing moves. The most important thing is keep the front and point sharp and correctly angled. The next would be the top. The teeth are really in the noise, except for beveling the bottom edge a bit. All this can be done w/ one good flat file.

Either everyone has left work early, or they are afraid you don't exist. Where do you live? That info may make it easier to hook up w/ folks near you.

I'd agree. Get 2x 13 & 2x 16. Skip the 10s unless you know you're going to have no other options. The 16s will provide more peace of mind.

Another common newbie mistake is buying too many long screws. Yep, you need a couple 19 or 22 cms, but you'll end up using more short screws for alpine climbs, especially after you stub a $60 screw. Make sure you get a 13 and/or a 16 once you think you're going to actually use some screws.

Look for the routes by DB (Dave Boltz). His routes are usually well done. Plus, what a great name for a climber.

How about the Eliot spire or whatever that thing is called to the right of the North Face gullies. Anyone ever get to the top of that thing?

Bump. Doing the same, later this week. Any info on Ipsut creek would be appreciated. Is the road open all the way to the CG? Is it better to follow the river onto the glacier or head for Mystic lake and trot up the ridge?

The key things to remember here are the mountain and the weather. You can certainly summit in 2 weeks, if the mountain lets you. If you do a single carry to ski hill and then move camp every 3 days you're there. This pretty well keeps you to the 1000' a day rule o' thumb. Day Loc 1 Kahiltna Base 2 Ski Hill 3 Carry to 11 4 Rest/Weather 5 Move to 11 6 Carry to 14|WC 7 Rest/Weather 8 Move to 14 9 Retrieve cache/rest 10 Carry to 16k|17k 11 Rest/weather 12 Move to 17k 13 Rest/weather 14 Summit 15 Descend Some years you can walk to the top whenever you feel like it. However, when I was there in '98 the success rate was 0% until May 30, which was the first summit day. The success rate went to 11%. I summitted on the 4th of June, which was the second summit day. The success rate went to 19% that day. That means that nobody summitted on any other days during that time. Not super-fit CO studs who sleep at 11k. Not sponsored VIPs with the finest of everything. The final tally for the year was 39%. Significantly lower than avg. Another friend was there in '02. They had 2 days of unsettled (not bad) weather during the 3 weeks they were there. They could do whatever they wanted, whenever they wanted. Those are kind of the extremes you need to be aware of. Yes, a fit climber would have no problem punching out the vert without getting sick. Whether you get the window at the right time is really the question. Is it better to take 4 weeks off once or take 2+ weeks off, possibly 2 or 3 times to get it? Plus, it really does take 4 days to get picked up once in a while. The day we summitted an RMI group voted to descend. They were still at base camp 3 days later when I made it back down. We had 5 ft. of snow at 11 and were stuck there for 2+ days. I finally skied down, solo, thru the night because I was so sick of being there for like 25 days. Everyone who had been coming down was strung out between 14k and BC. I pulled in at 5:30 in the morning and got in line for Geeting behind the RMI group. The sun came out for the first time in 3 days and 150+ climbers came down and got in line for the planes. By 2 pm there were 200+ folks in BC, milling around. I got lucky and got out on about the second or third plane in. The flight services thought it was opening up and sent 4 planes in. The clouds rolled up the glacier and trapped the pilots in BC for 2 more days. I had to leave Talkeetna with my gear still sitting on the Kahiltna. None of this had anything to do with my motivation, skill, level of fitness, etc. I was lucky enough to hit the window and had the time. There are so many factors that can control you. There's really no reason you can't hit 14k in <10 days. Above that you're subject to a whole new ballgame. Good luck.

If you can stand to buy them from a Law Enforcement outfitter, here's a deal on the OR powerstrech farmer johns. http://shop.store.yahoo.com/diamondback/outressatsui.html.