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Gumby (1/14)



  1. I felt like my knees started going bad when I was in my early to mid twenties. I also remember that exact feeling you are talking about when you are post holing and you feel like you almost hyper extend your knee. I did that several times. My knees got worse after a couple of seasons of very frequent long days in the alpine with big packs. I started to worry that I would not be able to continue alpine climbing. Then I started biking to work and around town, on an almost daily basis. Not hard core mountain biking or road biking, just daily commuting. It wasn't that I was trying to fix my knees, I was just cheap and wanted to save gas money. It seemed to "fix" my knees as they just eventually stopped hurting all together. I'm now 38 and have absolutely no problems with my knees. No long term damage, and no pain when descending. It's not scientific, but I really believe that daily bike riding did something to strengthen my knees in a way for them to stop hurting when hiking/climbing even with a big pack.
  2. I've worked in the guiding industry for 12 years and I've never heard a single guide say that they didn't accept cash tips. Contrary to what you said, I believe that tipping a mountain guide is absolutely a long established tradition. Not that you get a tip on every trip, but certainly the majority of trips. It isn't expected, but definitely appreciated. Someone serving you food for an hour compared to someone showing you a good time in the mountains, possibly for several days or weeks, keeping you safe and maybe getting to a summit definitely seems like a tipping situation to me. Fishing guides and raft guides certainly receive tips. Working as a guide and not accepting tips is fine, but I'd say you were out of touch with your fellow guides if you weren't aware of them accepting cash tips. Unless maybe it was a really long time ago (?). Oh and on the boots and tent, Mr. Pires has good advice. I'd use plastics and bomber tent for rainy/stormy/early season trips and leather boots and lightweight tent for good weather and firm snow. I use a bibler awahnee tent and la sportiva Nuptses for bad weather/soft snow. And I have a first light tent and kayland super rocks for good weather and/or climbs that entail rock and snow. I like the Awahnee better than the I-tent because the vestibule and door are much bigger and easier to get into and out of, and vents better in hot weather.
  3. Sometimes I plunge my 85cm shaft into other people's axe holes.
  4. Thank you Ed for bringing this issue to light. I thought it was finished years ago. I personally don't mind some development in the mountains, ie. trails, well placed huts, signage, markers, logging road access or even trams in the right places, like ski areas. But this is not a ski area. It's a hiking/climbing/biking/nature area. What purpose is this project fulfilling? Just so you don't have to hike 2000 ft? Is it about money and jobs? Just build a really really really nice trail up the same swath of land and let local climbers carry tourists up on their backs or on litters or those old school chinese two person carriers. Charge $30 and give some young, strong, homeless climbers a job.
  5. I bought these bindings with a new pair of skis and decided against it when they arrived. I'm going to buy a pair of Dynafit bindings instead. They are brand new in the box. Trying to get my money out of them, asking $350. They retail $399 on sale right now online. Make an offer. Call or text 360-927-1551 if you want to see them. I'm in Bellingham.
  6. Main thing for a beginner to the Cascades to know is that this year the normal summer trails are still covered in snow. Even seasoned Cascadians get lost in the woods trying to find even a trail they've been on before. Your biggest dangers are not always high on the mountain as the two recent fatalities have shown. One of my favorite solo climbs is Needle Peak in BC right off the Coquihalla Hwy across from Yak Peak. Super fun 3rd class scramble with cool views. About 2.5 hour drive from Bellingham.
  7. Spot Messenger - $100 AK expedition gear - $5,000 Getting heli-picked off the mountain AND getting your gear back - Priceless All joking aside, it's good these guys got home safe. No one will deny that. Like Gene said, we've all made mistakes and this could just as easily been anyone reading this thread. I can think of a time I might have pressed the button if I'd had one. Judge not lest ye be judged. This is now the reality in backcountry travel. People are going to use the technology that is available. As long as an emergency device exists which limits one's communication to "I'm OK" or "I need rescue", people will push the emergency button when they are "in trouble". I'm sure when you are sitting in a storm in a snow cave after a forced bivy on a summit attempt in a remote part of Alaska, you aren't thinking super clearly. Don't blame the people. People are going to do what people are going to do. Maybe it's the technology that needs tweaking so more detail can be given to rescuers, who can then make a more informed decision on whether to risk resources on a rescue.
  8. Anyone climbed in Sardinia or Corsica? I'm looking for advice on where to go, cheap/good camping, and used guidebooks. We're starting in Cala Gonone for sure, but trying to decide where to spend the rest of our time. Thanks.
  9. That's great to hear. I reported a possible sighting of a wolverine in 2005 when I was skiing alone around Welcome Pass off Mount Baker Hwy.
  10. S1W hit the nail on the head. Talking about guiding as a job is one thing. Talking about guiding as a career is another. Guiding as a job is probably universally agreed to be a great experience. I don't know anyone who has regretted being a guide. But as a career, only 1% of guides make it into a legitimate career. Those who do have determination, patience, love of mountains and willingness to live a somewhat oddball lifestyle. I'd bet those who have made a lifelong career out of it would say that being away from home/friends/spouse is the hardest part (or sitting in the rain for days at a time). There's also those who have carved out a perfect little niche and they sometimes seem to have life pretty dialed in.
  11. I'm not sure, but it looks like it can be adjusted to fit boots size up to US 10 or 11. It's currently set for US 8.5 or 9 boot.
  12. This is a good set-up for either an approach ski for ice climbers/AK glaciers or for an inexpensive pair of spring skis for getting around the cascades. Research Dynamic Coyote Tele TRX 180cm skis - probably 10 years old, but good condition. Light weight, about 75mm underfoot. Silvretta Carbon Fiber Easy Go bindings with DIN setting - FITS ALL CRAMPON COMPATIBLE BOOTS. This is the perfect pair of approach skis for climbers wanting to ski in climbing boots. If interested, call 360-927-1551. I can email photos. I live in Bellingham. Andy
  13. Black Diamond Havoc 173cm Skis - Dimensions 122 shovel, 88 waist, 112 tail. Like new, barely used. Everything in perfect condition. Excellent all around touring ski for big mountain terrain or in bounds. This pair was among the last BD skis actually made in Austria. After this model, all BD skis were made in China. Fritschi Freeride AT Bindings - Includes ski brakes. Tough enough for in bounds skiing, but meant for backcountry skiing and touring. Perfect condition, mounted only once (on these skis). BC Ascension Skins - Cut exactly to dimension of above skis. Glue and skins in excellent condition. This is an awesome deal on an excellent pair of skis designed for our area. Fat enough to float in powder, but not so fat that you can't ski in crud or spring corn. Look up the reviews. Havocs retail for $379 Fritschi Freerides retail for $450 BD Ascension Skins retail for $155 Total Retail $984 My price is $450 (firm). Call 360-927-1551 if you are interested. Here's the craigslist ad with photos - http://bellingham.craigslist.org/spo/2111877318.html Andy
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