genepires

If you are 100 feet up at a belay. Leader goes out 10 feet from belay with no gear in between him and the anchor, falls, then you got a fall factor 2. If the ground is steep enough and the belayer does not let go of the rope, you will walk away.

sorry, it was just a hypothesis that most likely is wrong like most hypothesises. No research was done before my proposition.

there is a chance that cynicalwoodsman = summitchaser. no proof of it but the timing is there. Only the gods of the digital information know the real identities.

I can't figure out to laugh or be scared.

Just because you can't spell a word doesn't mean you are not that. Besides you spelled egomaniacal and douchebag in your posting. A real douchebag pays money to look at used panties without a girl attached it them.

there is probably as many reasons as there are climbers who leave them. One that I can think of- for extremely overhanging terrain, it is too hard to clean the draws while being lowered. Others have said it was a convenience for other sport climbers. This is just conjecture as I have never been on ground where it wasn't easy to clean the gear off. Hard sport is not my bag.

those are costco racks in the background

Thanks for sharing your perspective. I look forward to discussing it with you at the crag sometime. Cheers, Orion You won't be seeing Raindawg or any of the whiners at Little Si or Smith Rock. They don't climb anymore. or if they do, doubtful if it reaches the 5.6 scale but they certainly like to judge people, thats their thing, not climbing. What are you thinking Orion trying to climb a route that may be to diffcult for you? You should be like these guys, and participate in "Assured Outcome" climbing. There are valid points on both sides of the arguement. But claiming that because someone can only climb 5.6 and therefore his point of view is invalid is a lame one. Ones skill level (wether true or not) is irrelevant to the validity of a point of view. Raindawg's may be extreme but his points are more valid than the majority of the stuff written here. These attacks on his personality only strengthen Raindawg's arguements about the character of sport climbers. Orion is an example of a reasonable guy with cool character. Thanks for the work you and others did up there.

Maybe if we decorated the fixed draws with festive colors it would be appealing to hikers. Maybe coordinate them with the seasons. Halloween the draws could be orange and black and maybe hang pumpkins from them. Xmas could all be red and green with tree decorations on every bolt. Hell, we could string up pretty lights all over the wall too. The hikers would think it is some art and religous thing and say good things to the land managers. For the fourth of july, we could have fireworks shooting out of climbers asses.

I bet the lead routes are on overhanging walls so that the falls are clean. Overhanging ground is usually harder. Ask them to put jugs on the steep lines and you got your moderate lead line. Ask and ye shall receive. If you fall on a natural line and break an ankle, you gonna sue the granite? The gym doesn't have that liability immunity.

don't get your panties in a wad Mikey. It is always slow this time of year and besides, you haven't had any tr's here since you left for salt lake. Be a part of the solution. My excuse is that I haven't done anything interesting enough to warrant a tr.

You don't know your target audience very well. Have you looked around here and seen the cluster fucks that go on here? You are getting off easy. If you want kind words and dishonest appreciation, look towards the mountaineers. Just a little heads up. Things get worse before they get better.

hobbits go climbing. leather boots tend to stretch in width. Might involve getting as close as possible with a leather, dealing with the pain for months till it stretches out and then babying those boots till you die.

We won't. If you have the skills to write a blog with pictures, how come you lack the skills to post the trip on this site with pictures?

I don't need to listen to you if you don't climb 5.14

try doing your chest and shdr work with a neutral grip. (meaning palms face each other) You may need to use special bars or just use dumbells. This is safer for the shoulders. Could be impingement of the nerve in the shoulder socket area. Inflamation occurs which pushes on the nerve. Are your shoulders hunched forward (driving and typing makes this worse)? You might need to pull the shdr back via strengthening the back and stretch the front. You might need a expert to give you real info. I play a doctor on the interweb but I am just a wanker in real life. Maybe hit the rock gym twice a week for 2 hrs and the weight gym 2 days a week. Maybe a schedule like (for winter time) day 1 rock gym (volume on easy ground) day 2 weight room (upper body) day 3 rest day 4 rock gym (intensity on hard routes) day 5 weight room (lower body) day 6 and 7 rest Good that your back is more developed than the mirror muscles! Don't forget the legs. at the first sign of any discomfort, stop the movement. pain is a signal worth listening to. good luck

nice climb fur sure. thanks for the photos.

aren't you young? you should not be having joint problems yet. I think you may need to give more info for a diagnosis. How many gym visits and rests between visits? How long is the gym time? How much climbing experience do you have already? (looking for tendons to be strengthened which takes years) Does the shoulder pain occur with a specific move or all moves? Same question for elbow. What part of elbow hurts? Inside/outside/front/back/above or below elbow joint Do you think you are exercising the front (chest) or back more? (looking for muscle imbalances for shdr pain) Unfortunately the shdr is a very hard joint to figure out. It will probably come down to easing off whatever hurts, trying to do things that doesn't hurt, and work at creating muscle balance around the "injured' joint. It might be that your muscles have gotten stronger while the tendons haven't caught up. (typical for starter climbers) If this is the case, just ease off and do non painful stuff. Maybe take up snowshoeing or skiing. Supplements are meant to supplement a good diet. Junk food and supplements is no better than just junk food. Maybe you should work at training in the weight room for overall muscularity. (better for attracting chicks) Do whatever does not hurt. Be very careful with injuring/overuse of the elbow. It is a bitch to recover from.

I think mike is suggesting that slight movement in the crampon is not such a bad thing. But I have seen (or rather heard) people climbing with bad fitting crampons. Every kick results in a small rattle (in the center bar I believe) that creeps me out. Even from 40 m away I can hear it.

for what its worth, my old rambo crampon (2000?) fits my old blue freney very good. But it does not have that center bar that seems to be the issue with your questions. Now I just have to use it more often since they fit.

sounds like a conspiracy? Just like 9/11, I don't think the parties involved are smart enough to create such a conspiracy. More like you said earlier, there are dozens of boot companies that all make the boot a little differently, hence the crampon don't fit perfectly. What we need are boots that have the points retracted inside the soles. Upon need, the points come out for instant and secure ice action. Maybe a Gene Simmons dragon boot?

Assume you mean winter climbing? If you need to ski/snowshoe, you need a beacon. If you can walk, you probably don't need a beacon. With that logic, I rarely carry a beacon unless using floatation. Logical? not really. How can one argue against using a safety tool? After early june (last summer being the exception), carrying a beacon is probably useless weight.

of course you can blame Graham for his damn banana flavored pack material!

They should be fine for stomping around on easy snow climbs. You can buy all strap crampons to use for those boots. The model would need to be very flexible if your boot is flexible. Grivel Air Tech Light Crampon with Antibott Device & Flex Bars or a model with a hinge between the front and back piece. or the kahtoola models but they have very short points. Stubai Ultralight Universal Crampons look very flexible and good points. if your sole is not very flexible, then any regular all strap crampon will work like the BD neve, contact, camp stalker univ, Do you backcountry snowboard? If so, I would not take that plastic off. It is real hard to find a good back country snowboard boot. Most boots are way to stiff, high, and lean forward. This makes walking difficult so I would keep them as snowboard boots as they look great to walk in. (relative to normal SB boots)

I was thinking more of a failure of the strapping down than a wood failure. Yakima makes a basket thing for loading on roofs, that is not a rocket box. The warrior or something. Similar to what you got going but has vertical rails, but smaller I think. "Sue schmoo." till someone sues you. BTW, I like the setup.