genepires

I bet the lead routes are on overhanging walls so that the falls are clean. Overhanging ground is usually harder. Ask them to put jugs on the steep lines and you got your moderate lead line. Ask and ye shall receive. If you fall on a natural line and break an ankle, you gonna sue the granite? The gym doesn't have that liability immunity.

don't get your panties in a wad Mikey. It is always slow this time of year and besides, you haven't had any tr's here since you left for salt lake. Be a part of the solution. My excuse is that I haven't done anything interesting enough to warrant a tr.

You don't know your target audience very well. Have you looked around here and seen the cluster fucks that go on here? You are getting off easy. If you want kind words and dishonest appreciation, look towards the mountaineers. Just a little heads up. Things get worse before they get better.

hobbits go climbing. leather boots tend to stretch in width. Might involve getting as close as possible with a leather, dealing with the pain for months till it stretches out and then babying those boots till you die.

We won't. If you have the skills to write a blog with pictures, how come you lack the skills to post the trip on this site with pictures?

I don't need to listen to you if you don't climb 5.14

try doing your chest and shdr work with a neutral grip. (meaning palms face each other) You may need to use special bars or just use dumbells. This is safer for the shoulders. Could be impingement of the nerve in the shoulder socket area. Inflamation occurs which pushes on the nerve. Are your shoulders hunched forward (driving and typing makes this worse)? You might need to pull the shdr back via strengthening the back and stretch the front. You might need a expert to give you real info. I play a doctor on the interweb but I am just a wanker in real life. Maybe hit the rock gym twice a week for 2 hrs and the weight gym 2 days a week. Maybe a schedule like (for winter time) day 1 rock gym (volume on easy ground) day 2 weight room (upper body) day 3 rest day 4 rock gym (intensity on hard routes) day 5 weight room (lower body) day 6 and 7 rest Good that your back is more developed than the mirror muscles! Don't forget the legs. at the first sign of any discomfort, stop the movement. pain is a signal worth listening to. good luck

nice climb fur sure. thanks for the photos.

aren't you young? you should not be having joint problems yet. I think you may need to give more info for a diagnosis. How many gym visits and rests between visits? How long is the gym time? How much climbing experience do you have already? (looking for tendons to be strengthened which takes years) Does the shoulder pain occur with a specific move or all moves? Same question for elbow. What part of elbow hurts? Inside/outside/front/back/above or below elbow joint Do you think you are exercising the front (chest) or back more? (looking for muscle imbalances for shdr pain) Unfortunately the shdr is a very hard joint to figure out. It will probably come down to easing off whatever hurts, trying to do things that doesn't hurt, and work at creating muscle balance around the "injured' joint. It might be that your muscles have gotten stronger while the tendons haven't caught up. (typical for starter climbers) If this is the case, just ease off and do non painful stuff. Maybe take up snowshoeing or skiing. Supplements are meant to supplement a good diet. Junk food and supplements is no better than just junk food. Maybe you should work at training in the weight room for overall muscularity. (better for attracting chicks) Do whatever does not hurt. Be very careful with injuring/overuse of the elbow. It is a bitch to recover from.

I think mike is suggesting that slight movement in the crampon is not such a bad thing. But I have seen (or rather heard) people climbing with bad fitting crampons. Every kick results in a small rattle (in the center bar I believe) that creeps me out. Even from 40 m away I can hear it.

for what its worth, my old rambo crampon (2000?) fits my old blue freney very good. But it does not have that center bar that seems to be the issue with your questions. Now I just have to use it more often since they fit.

sounds like a conspiracy? Just like 9/11, I don't think the parties involved are smart enough to create such a conspiracy. More like you said earlier, there are dozens of boot companies that all make the boot a little differently, hence the crampon don't fit perfectly. What we need are boots that have the points retracted inside the soles. Upon need, the points come out for instant and secure ice action. Maybe a Gene Simmons dragon boot?

Assume you mean winter climbing? If you need to ski/snowshoe, you need a beacon. If you can walk, you probably don't need a beacon. With that logic, I rarely carry a beacon unless using floatation. Logical? not really. How can one argue against using a safety tool? After early june (last summer being the exception), carrying a beacon is probably useless weight.

of course you can blame Graham for his damn banana flavored pack material!

They should be fine for stomping around on easy snow climbs. You can buy all strap crampons to use for those boots. The model would need to be very flexible if your boot is flexible. Grivel Air Tech Light Crampon with Antibott Device & Flex Bars or a model with a hinge between the front and back piece. or the kahtoola models but they have very short points. Stubai Ultralight Universal Crampons look very flexible and good points. if your sole is not very flexible, then any regular all strap crampon will work like the BD neve, contact, camp stalker univ, Do you backcountry snowboard? If so, I would not take that plastic off. It is real hard to find a good back country snowboard boot. Most boots are way to stiff, high, and lean forward. This makes walking difficult so I would keep them as snowboard boots as they look great to walk in. (relative to normal SB boots)

I was thinking more of a failure of the strapping down than a wood failure. Yakima makes a basket thing for loading on roofs, that is not a rocket box. The warrior or something. Similar to what you got going but has vertical rails, but smaller I think. "Sue schmoo." till someone sues you. BTW, I like the setup.

what is the story with the second careno left photo? Where did the lead rope go or any rope for that matter?

nice!

congrats to all the winners. They all sound like good climbers on bold ventures.

http://www.etrailer.com/merchant2/graphics/00000001/pics/Y/0/Y07070_2_1000.jpg for $230 you can just get a yakima basket for the roof rack. How much did your whole thing cost? and then you got side rails and the victims can sue yakima if things fly off due to rack failure. I know, you like to build stuff.

p 236 of the waddington guide. pat and dan mcnerthney july 86 it would be a amazing if "someone" hadn't done the second ascent yet. I would imagine at least some crazy slavics did it in the last 24 years. It seems reasonable for the very strong types and also being right at the col.

I like the lookout window cover props in the last shot. where is winchester lookout? Obviously north of baker.

why should teachers not talk about what is wrong with schools? Would seem that ideas and opinions from the source would be valuable. or is it that is all they talk about?

rain at stevens yesterday. seems like the weather pattern so far is to move from one temperature extreme to the next.

leading that thing looks nuts. Might as well solo. That guy must be a hardman or insane man.