genepires

would be interesting to actually read their concession contract that allows them to tow cars. I bet they don't the right to but may be using language liberally to get what they want.

13+ inches of new snow at stevens last night alone. This rain is great!

I get queezy walking on rocks with my aluminum crampons. Can't imagine bashing them into hard ice. Would probably bend over the front points. No experience or rumors of bending points on aluminum crampons though.

was that a climbing anchor or a canyoneering anchor?

film camera? nice job getting up that.

if you need waterproof pants, then you didn't look at the weather forecast. but if you need waterproof/breathable, any cheap lightweight pair will do as it should be sitting in your pack 99% of the time. Honestly. I have a pair of dead bird (arcteryx) very lightweight pants that I carry almost every alpine venture and worn it 2 times in 10 years that I have owned it. If you wear any kind of waterproof/breathable pant on washington volcano, you will get wet underwear from sweat anyway.

spray is dead. long live spray.

whow-zers! beautiful!

that is what i suspected.

when did index move to the icicle? SHe does have a nice smile. BUt you are weak for making her carry the pack. who is this Monika?

how about you just go in the valley and walk around the crevasses? Don't go underneath icefalls. good enough for ya? or pay for a sightseeing trip and fly through there and figure it out on your own. Glaciers change yearly. Just because someone stayed a certain path 5 years ago doesn't mean that it is a good way now. many before you walked up that valley and didn't have the beta so you will do fine. unless you need your hand held through the scary parts of life.

7 and 6mm will work for prussiks and you have the bonus of being able to use it as a rappel anchor if the need arises. Wouldn't want to rap off a 5mm cord. I think most cords will soften up with use. You would prolly be fine buying whatever cord from your nearest climbing store. No need to get crazy with the brands for this.

OMG a mountie trip! Maybe we should have a mountie TR forum. nice job making the weather window.

do you put the needle through the core or just the sheath? How about a small description of what works? or a photo?

vancouver oregon or BC? welcome and climb aboard.

either way it will be gone next week.

haters gonna hate and it is fun to bash the mounties. BUT..... good for ya Layback. good that someone changes the lame parts of the mounties. If there was more like you, then the young-uns might come over.

correct me if I am wrong, but black diamond used to sell frames that you could take to have prescription lenses put in. I think that is the ones I have but i got them 13 years ago. I am not sure if it is really necessary to have such a tight fit that the regular glacier glasses offer with the leather side shields. A decent wrap around frame does a pretty good job of keeping the rays out but still allow enough venting to prevent fogging.

I don't get this. Why would you expect injuries for any teaching courses? Are you saying that they are not prepared for injuries or that injuries are required for learning?

lots of snow but it is at 10,000 ft. freezing levels are going up though. rain at stevens this wed thru the weekend. ugh. my glass is half empty. thursday night with 35 to 41 inches of new. Imagine if that much fell at 3000ft?

I like that non working santa claus came through at around the 2 min mark. Right on for trying to make things better.

I am tackling the same ideas. I have a few thoughts kids do better when in the company of other kids. If there was a climbing play date with a 6 or more kids, hopefully one is at least a little experienced, the others will follow along. Kid's peer pressure is the most powerful energy know to the child world. Birthday parties at vertical world is a natural situation. take your boy along to mellow short climbing days cragging. Let him/her watch with no pressure. Eventually when the location is no longer a novelty, they will explore what you are doing. Much like they watch and imitate what you do at home. With enough time at the crags, hopefully the imitation follows. For that age, big concern are needs to be safe with no big drop offs nearby or raging rivers, easy face climbing and close to car. mtneers clubhouse outdoor wall, fun rock and exit 38 is a good location. Merrymore and leavenworth crack climbing not so. If your 3 year old starts at index, then we have a prodigy at hand. Make a short easy climbing wall at home. Put a bell on top to ring. get on it daily in full view of child. Helps daddy out to is a bonus. For older kids, tell them that they are not allowed to climb till they are 18. Guaranteed to make them climb right now. Our aging cunning and skills should win over youth in this endeavor. But you will hate yourself when he/she climbs harder than you in a couple years or becomes a Colin Haley uber alpinist. Such is life. Not sure if the hauling up wall or tyrolean is a good idea. probably would be if they can escape or end at slightest whimper. I am going to be trying more cragging child efforts this year. Maybe we can keep this thread running with peoples successes and failures.

doubtful that a book has most of what Doorish has done in the alpine.

in the icicle, start on the east end south facing side. Places like trundle dome, oprahs navel area, ski tracks crack (ironic huh?) melt out sooner. The farther you go into the valley, the more snow usually. Also, the hobo gulch is south facing, right near town so it should be snow free sooner. Though it looks like your biggest obstacle may be rain and relatively cold temps. If so, peshastin calls.

edward abbey also wrote about how great it was to have a campfire burning the juniper trees that are not so abundant in that desert. Like most people, his real actions fall a little short than his ideals. But that is ok. We are all human and to err is human.