genepires

when did index move to the icicle? SHe does have a nice smile. BUt you are weak for making her carry the pack. who is this Monika?

how about you just go in the valley and walk around the crevasses? Don't go underneath icefalls. good enough for ya? or pay for a sightseeing trip and fly through there and figure it out on your own. Glaciers change yearly. Just because someone stayed a certain path 5 years ago doesn't mean that it is a good way now. many before you walked up that valley and didn't have the beta so you will do fine. unless you need your hand held through the scary parts of life.

7 and 6mm will work for prussiks and you have the bonus of being able to use it as a rappel anchor if the need arises. Wouldn't want to rap off a 5mm cord. I think most cords will soften up with use. You would prolly be fine buying whatever cord from your nearest climbing store. No need to get crazy with the brands for this.

OMG a mountie trip! Maybe we should have a mountie TR forum. nice job making the weather window.

do you put the needle through the core or just the sheath? How about a small description of what works? or a photo?

vancouver oregon or BC? welcome and climb aboard.

either way it will be gone next week.

haters gonna hate and it is fun to bash the mounties. BUT..... good for ya Layback. good that someone changes the lame parts of the mounties. If there was more like you, then the young-uns might come over.

correct me if I am wrong, but black diamond used to sell frames that you could take to have prescription lenses put in. I think that is the ones I have but i got them 13 years ago. I am not sure if it is really necessary to have such a tight fit that the regular glacier glasses offer with the leather side shields. A decent wrap around frame does a pretty good job of keeping the rays out but still allow enough venting to prevent fogging.

I don't get this. Why would you expect injuries for any teaching courses? Are you saying that they are not prepared for injuries or that injuries are required for learning?

lots of snow but it is at 10,000 ft. freezing levels are going up though. rain at stevens this wed thru the weekend. ugh. my glass is half empty. thursday night with 35 to 41 inches of new. Imagine if that much fell at 3000ft?

I like that non working santa claus came through at around the 2 min mark. Right on for trying to make things better.

I am tackling the same ideas. I have a few thoughts kids do better when in the company of other kids. If there was a climbing play date with a 6 or more kids, hopefully one is at least a little experienced, the others will follow along. Kid's peer pressure is the most powerful energy know to the child world. Birthday parties at vertical world is a natural situation. take your boy along to mellow short climbing days cragging. Let him/her watch with no pressure. Eventually when the location is no longer a novelty, they will explore what you are doing. Much like they watch and imitate what you do at home. With enough time at the crags, hopefully the imitation follows. For that age, big concern are needs to be safe with no big drop offs nearby or raging rivers, easy face climbing and close to car. mtneers clubhouse outdoor wall, fun rock and exit 38 is a good location. Merrymore and leavenworth crack climbing not so. If your 3 year old starts at index, then we have a prodigy at hand. Make a short easy climbing wall at home. Put a bell on top to ring. get on it daily in full view of child. Helps daddy out to is a bonus. For older kids, tell them that they are not allowed to climb till they are 18. Guaranteed to make them climb right now. Our aging cunning and skills should win over youth in this endeavor. But you will hate yourself when he/she climbs harder than you in a couple years or becomes a Colin Haley uber alpinist. Such is life. Not sure if the hauling up wall or tyrolean is a good idea. probably would be if they can escape or end at slightest whimper. I am going to be trying more cragging child efforts this year. Maybe we can keep this thread running with peoples successes and failures.

doubtful that a book has most of what Doorish has done in the alpine.

in the icicle, start on the east end south facing side. Places like trundle dome, oprahs navel area, ski tracks crack (ironic huh?) melt out sooner. The farther you go into the valley, the more snow usually. Also, the hobo gulch is south facing, right near town so it should be snow free sooner. Though it looks like your biggest obstacle may be rain and relatively cold temps. If so, peshastin calls.

edward abbey also wrote about how great it was to have a campfire burning the juniper trees that are not so abundant in that desert. Like most people, his real actions fall a little short than his ideals. But that is ok. We are all human and to err is human.

Once again, I don't know everyone here. BUt the ones I know and what I get from reading what people say, I don't think a sizable part of cc.com has a "bouldering/gym hive mindset". I believe that the majority favor the experience over the numbers as well. It is ironic that you mention "I guess its just a balance that seems hard to make in this day and age." when that is the exact problem (I suspect) that people have with the extremist views like raindawg's. There is no balance with people like him. No give and take. No compromise or accepting that others have valid points. Not really the member of a "community". (damn I am getting old using the community word) Say you are a smoker who likes to eat a burger once in a while. You got a brother who quit smoking and is a vegan who hounds you every day about your vices. Is the brother right? Probably, but who gives a rats ass because that brother is a dick after a short time and the good message is lost. But if the vegan brother makes a ranting comment say once a month and is a good helpful guy the rest, then maybe the message will have an impact. You see this kind of thing with most conservation organizations. Warn and inform us but don't badger us. Save the dire message for the end of the ocean documentary. ""extreme" views like Dawgs are really normal." No there are not. Reasonability and rationality are normal. Normal takes in consideration the overall picture. Normal understands that many people are involved with this activity and that many differing opinions are held. Normal member of society would try to accommodate the majority while still make progress to personal beliefs. Compromise. give and take. Dictators say what the beliefs and rules are. Dictators don't care about society but impose their beliefs on the masses. (not claiming anyone is a dictator as you have to be in charge to be a dictator but you get my drift) Can't end on such a harsh note. I didn't want to turn into a "bashing session". Just trying some civility. Once again, the internet allows these interactions to occur without appreciating that there is a person on the other end of the screen. It is just little 1's and 0's floating through copper and fiber. Society could use some more face to face time.

I am sure we would all get along just fine if meeting face to face. I get the feeling that people don't crap on dawg because it is fun. It is the presentation of dawg's ideas. No one likes being preached to endlessly. No one likes being told that they are lacking true morals endlessly either. And maybe the problem is that dawg has not offered anything to this site other than his feelings towards bolting and being critical of nearly everyone. A one track horse that becomes just plain boring once the novelty wears off. maybe I am wrong but that is my take on it.

whatever.... you are lumping all "dissidents" of dawg's beliefs into a category of youthful, gym climbers, and little regard for nature. While I don't know everyone personally, the people who have issues with dawg's presentation that i know personally are all fine individuals who care about the environment and do not fit your description above. (even choada boy!) This is the problem with internet. Behind every avatar is a person and maybe a internet persona. Easy to let that persona get out of hand when all you see is a digitized enemy. Things were much more civil when all interactions took place around a campfire, pub or crag. oh great. I write a thoughtful post and you go ahead and edited it while I wasn't looking

let the baby have his pudding. Save the stump to make the dawg shut up.

5 pounds! I bet most people read that far. It is the gear notes and approach notes that I don't bother with nice job and good calls! Icicle (construction not leavenworth) ice climbs are scary.

I THINK the 3rd one is just left of the second pitch of careno regular route. I thought I saw a fish wall somewhere in the middle and a clems hollar at the end.

how do we find the answer to our "quiz". I think I failed with 8 that I know right and a couple of guesses.

??? I no read good. Not sure where you are going with your post. I also no understand "hypocritical" good. BUt how about if we all make a virtue and carry out our own poop. Emergencies are emergencies but the planned open poops are gross. This is coming from a personal experience where I was sitting down after a pleasant hike up to the summit of temple, I moved a rock to put my hand down (sitting down and leaning back if that makes sense) and unknowingly put my hand right on a pile of human crap. Ruined my good day and scarred me to this day. A well used climbing area is even more important to carry it out. It was a valuable lesson for acon-choss-ua though. That place is littered with poop bombs under every rock larger than a frisbee. My last gross incident involved one well known old man climber who unloaded within a couple feet of a running creek in the ghost range. I think he used a stick to wipe his ass too. That didn't ruin my day but I don't drink calgary water either. why can't I stay away from poop conversations?

You are right. It was a long time since I bought the gi gi and looked at the instructions. I thought the instructions had it so that you could use it like a stitch plate. (Like bring a bight of rope through one hole and clip it to the belay loop) But looking at their website again, I see that it should be setup looking like a carabiner brake mode. My bad.