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Everything posted by genepires
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take it to spray Dave, this is just a public service message for our people heading up the hill. Don't get your smart brain all wound up. maybe you should suggest an initiative for making all hwy going to a ski area to be 25mph for old men like yourself. It has been 18 days since our last serious accident. It is all good!
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Alright grandma Dave! It is not really a reckless driving thing. It is real easy to be driving the speed limit and pull into the towns, you slow down but still be way over. When you go 55 and pull into a 35 zone, it is easy to be 10 over without noticing. I have actually not seen many "maniacs" on hwy 2. Things get rodeo like within a couple miles of the ski area but other than that, the drivers are very mellow. If you want maniacs, look to your neighborhood (mt baker hwy) or vancouver. Talking smack about my "peeps" is lame. Clean up your own backyard Dave.
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I am sure most of you know if you frequent this road, but there are police situated regularly on hwy around sultan, startup and goldbar nabbing skiers who speed through the 35mph speed zones. Everyday I go by there, they got someone pulled over. State revenue is down so they are making it up on the hwy. There was also one hunting on the passing lane section just east and outside of goldbar city limits. So heads up in the passing zone sections too.
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I think a hard solo at hyalite, write a TR and then ignore his own TR.
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what if your partner left a auto locking belay device attached to the rope near their tie in knot. Then if the need to ascend the rope,, they would only need to slap on a tibloc with a sling for the feet and the belay device would work as their waist prussik. Climb up rope on tibloc and pull the rope through the belay device (in auto mode) much like a caver ascends ropes.
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jugging on the auto lock belay should not be a problem. How about just slapping on a 3 to 1 and haul the person up enough to get back into climbable terrain? Use the auto lock at the first "pulley" and holding prussik. Would require a prussik and a biner and not too much rope rubbing on rock.
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[TR] norway - vang - some more routes 3/8/2011
genepires replied to spionin's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
girl swinging ice tools is a +1 point girl swinging tool to smash skull is +10 points. (if the prize was based on content and not random) -
something similar to moats tends to form around boulders. I have fallen into some of these when going across a buried boulder field in the springtime. But these should not be big enough to fall completely in. More on an annoyance really. Some poor guy fell into a tree well at stevens a couple years back and died inside. A strange thing indeed. Not that familiar with the phenomena , but I think that a dip forms in the snow around the trunk. When someone falls over and goes into the well, maybe snow from the tree and sides of the well fall into the well, burying the skier. This action would not happen around a boulder.
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[TR] norway - vang - some more routes 3/8/2011
genepires replied to spionin's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
being able to smash the skull of a deer is not a feature I remember reading about in the ice tool hammer description. Dane should add that photo to his site for the hammer attachment. This is why you need a hammer you fools! -
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I own the extreme and not the evo. I was not aware that they still made the extreme. My extremes were good for alaska range but we didn't on denali. For the cassin, you are going to need the best boot money can buy. You will be commited and doing it in less than perfect boots is a very bad idea if you love your toes. Nepals are good for things like moose tooth, francis, huntington, ect. My nepals are sized a bit bigger and still climb ice well. It is all about the cuff to lock the foot in place. Roomy toe box counts. Fit is a personal thing though so you will have to try on different ones which will be hard due to your snowshoe feet. calehoopes. I only used them multiday in AK and they were fine drying out. But the air is so dry that it is real easy to dry things out. My multiday experience in cascades with leathers is that they are difficult to dry unless you are at a sunny camp and not wearing the boots. take the insoles out to dry separately.
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Many climbs in the alaska range can be done with nepal evo and add insulated overboots for when it is real cold. Nepal evo is a good ice boot also. I don't know if I would call it a mixed boot though but it would still work. Maybe you need to explain what your AK and patagonia aspirations are.
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I thought there was very good info in the first 40 minutes or so dealing with the human nature elements. Regardless of your feelings about monetary policy, there is good ideas presented about human psychology. Why can't people have their glass half full? cause haters gotta hate.
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you will definitely need warmer that tower boots for AK. Depending on season and location, but classic routes in usual times are too cold for towers, unless you are going to little swiss. You would need plastic or nylon toe piece for your crampon (for towers) which is fine unless you are going for super rad ice and mixed lines in hyalite. This type of crampon would be good for AK though. I think that hyalite can be pleasant for down right frigid. All depends on luck wether your towers would be good or not. If you go with the towers, it will be to cold according to Murphy.
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part of me is excited that he might be the man representing the republicans. Another part of me is scared shitless he may win whatever his history. (we have voted in Bush a second time) And how bad would that look for un internationally?
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people are stupid and/or have a short/programable memory.
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[TR] Sloan Peak - Corkscrew Route 6/27/2006
genepires replied to denalidevo's topic in North Cascades
I was told there was a nice trail on that side. I wonder if it was put in after 2006. -
total destruction of everything within 7 miles (or more) of the beach and who knows how many people died and the spray machine at cc.com continues with the same BS. You guys are priceless.
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sexy looking biner but what is the advantage of this over a regular hooded wiregate?
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don't know the names but the band that I have been liking are the gossip The Kills sleater kinney the ettes no american idol crap here. Just girls who rock.
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Mr Married Mikey Layton! Where's the TR? must have been epic.
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while I can't read Chek, from the photos in the link, it looked like she had a very good life and started climbing in 1961 or earlier.
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I like how "every 3600 years" this mass extinction is supposed to happen. Amazing there is any life at all.
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my bad.
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second the avi fear factor for polar circus. The couple of times we went there, there HUGE avi scours in the snowpack that shows how bad ass the situation is. There is a lot of snow load terrain above and makes the whole day very interesting when you ponder that at belays. But I am a avi paranoid schizo though. (after one small, non lethal incident/lesson)