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Everything posted by genepires
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have to be back in woodinville by 4:30pm but able to get out for the day. pm me gene
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depends on what that 10hr of climbing is. And maybe some people enjoy the 100 hr training.
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Interesting rescue and resulting ethical quandary
genepires replied to num1mc's topic in Climber's Board
OK. Point being though that is the previous generation had the technology and resources, would they have called for a rescue or toughed it out? High altitude rescue has come to the himalaya now. Didn't some high profile guy get saved soloing some hard line on nanga parbat or something? -
Interesting rescue and resulting ethical quandary
genepires replied to num1mc's topic in Climber's Board
satellite phones would be better but they are expensive. for now. Another thought. There is sometimes a idea that this technology is unnecessary and that "back in the day" the real men would not have used them. BUt it would be interesting to ask some hardmen from days long gone, who have been involved in some nasty situations, if they would have pushed the button if they had one? Would Jeff Lowe called the rescue on latok? How many times would Joe Simpson? Instead of cutting the rope, would Yates push the SPOT? Jim Whickwire in AK with his buddy stuck in the crevasse? (book Addicted to Danger) Colby Coombs on foraker? These guys were in TOUGH situations. Would they have pushed the SPOT button? -
the power of humans is amazing. That is some crazy terrain.
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Interesting rescue and resulting ethical quandary
genepires replied to num1mc's topic in Climber's Board
A lot of hate going on for a couple guys who did things that many of us would do to (talking about the wands, stove and GPS, not the emergency call) The reality of the sport is that we make mistakes and usually get away with it. Sometimes we are perfect. Sometimes we don't get away with the mistakes. Sometimes we don't come back. These guys made a string of mistakes. They made a call that maybe wasn't the best. At least they are alive and able to learn from a mistake. Who is perfect that can cast the first stone? Who hasn't made serious error in judgement? I would say that every trip, or every climber, has some mistake made at least on a small level. If you think you are perfect, then you are delusional. Why hate on them so much with so little info? Who can say the situation they were in? maybe it was warranted and only they can answer that. -
God put it there to frustrate climbers.
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what a strange comment since everyone is agreeing with you. Bragging & chest beating? But for a different view point. Even if you are not going fast, carrying less weight makes the miserable less miserable. Getting 5 pounds off of a 45lb pack does wonders and might actually be more noticeable than getting a 15lb pack down to 10lb. (as far as standard alpine climbing and backpacking)
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layton for president! Him and Trump can fight it out.
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nuts and hexes. go old skool. Been a while, but I don't remember belaying much on that route. More scrambling and a couple pitches I believe.
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you should go to feathered friends store and tell them you want to nail city park and need to buy some.
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Been using the FF (3 different bags) for 2 decades. Hoods are good and I don't know where one could complain about. Damn good stuff and durable. Plus they don't sell pitons to newbies. Never had a WM so I can't comment on a comparison. Might come down to what you can find cheaper.
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fixed it for you.
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sounds like you mean to say "do it in a laundromat"
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many alpine routes only need a couple raps to get where you walk off. Also, double ropes are a good idea for alpine as fewer raps are needed. oh yeah, one "trick" is to use a tree without a sling but this wears the bark off the trunk when you pull the rope. So this is not a very environmentally conscious activity as should be saved for the most dire situations.
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you need to define "start climbing". define goals too. gear lists vary for activity and location.
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Overnight Parking at Alpental being restricted
genepires replied to Friedrich's topic in Access Issues
would be interesting to actually read their concession contract that allows them to tow cars. I bet they don't the right to but may be using language liberally to get what they want. -
13+ inches of new snow at stevens last night alone. This rain is great!
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I get queezy walking on rocks with my aluminum crampons. Can't imagine bashing them into hard ice. Would probably bend over the front points. No experience or rumors of bending points on aluminum crampons though.
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was that a climbing anchor or a canyoneering anchor?
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[TR] Mt. Adams - Adams Glacier 7/10/2001
genepires replied to Layback's topic in Southern WA Cascades
film camera? nice job getting up that. -
if you need waterproof pants, then you didn't look at the weather forecast. but if you need waterproof/breathable, any cheap lightweight pair will do as it should be sitting in your pack 99% of the time. Honestly. I have a pair of dead bird (arcteryx) very lightweight pants that I carry almost every alpine venture and worn it 2 times in 10 years that I have owned it. If you wear any kind of waterproof/breathable pant on washington volcano, you will get wet underwear from sweat anyway.
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spray is dead. long live spray.
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[TR] Leavenworth - Givler's, Regular Route, Outer Space 9/10/2010
genepires replied to ryanl's topic in Alpine Lakes
that is what i suspected.