genepires

bravo brother! thanks for writing and making those 5.5 starred routes.

without rock / ice experience and minimal glacier experience, this cuts out most of the classic routes. You need to look for scrambling routes such as what Dave and Tvash mentions above. Some other options are the descent route from the buckner climbing routes. Goes up to sahale base camp area and then over a ridge, through horseshoe basin and to the top of buckner. You could also do the sahale route while there. sahale arm route in select cascade vol 2 book black peak - south ridge 4th class. select cascade vol2 book dragontail peak - up the back side from asgaurd pass.

while the answer no one wants to hear but it may be the best answer, you need 2 pairs of boots. for negative F temp which you are mountaineering in, you may need simple plastic double boots. While this may look expensive, you can find them used often either online or at places that rent boots which occasionally (or yearly) sell off the entire stock. for ice climbing, who wants to ice climb in negative F temps anyway? Usually ice boots only need to be comfortable in the 15 to 30 F range. Fit is paramount so telling you what is the best boot is ridiculous. You are gonna have to go to a good climbing store and try on many pairs to find the right fit. While you may get lucky with the simple store try on for fit game, usually one will buy and return a couple pairs before finding that perfect boot. If there is a ice climbing festival, you can try out many different boots in a real ice climbing situation to find that perfect boot and other sweet gear. Maybe be worth whatever expense. Keeping toes and fingers warm is more complicated than simply putting thick layers over those appendages. what you wear on your body and general tension levels throughout have a bigger impact than wearing a non insulated ice boot. With all that out of the way, I have some regular nepal tops and pre evo nepal extremes and I like them. The extreme is my go to boots when it is below 20F. But I like uninsulated ice boots for those 20 to 32F days. Once again. FIT matters more than anything else.

signed it, now you need 24.

small world!

Hey Kevino, hows about a little education on the numbers above. 1st two numbers are the date then the time then the next numbers are temps for different altitudes? What is with the column with the 90's and column before the 0's? thanks,

assuming your partner does not have any gear to contribute to your second set of certain sizes, I usually like to have double of the #1 tcu up to #2 camalot. (don't know the inch equivelant off the top of my head) Yeah get more experience but place lots of gear, early and often.

I can't read anything you write due to the "distraction" image. damn!

uh...so I take it the community would rather I not leave a short fixed line on that bolt. no worries.

Bravo.

It was my fault Colin wrote out his climbing day. I was curious. Any angst at thread drift should be directed at me.

I guess you were lucky in that it wasn't completely snapped. I wonder if the relatively speedy descent would have been possible with a fully fractured fibula. Good job getting out of there. I guess all the time in the pain cave paid off. This would be a good posting as a warning in the newbie forum. (not insinuating you are a newbie) Reading this account would stick with newbies and they would never do that.

summitchaser to the rescue for internut entertainment! I think thread drift is ok as long as it is informative and entertaining, so please Colin, tell us the whole story from the glissade to getting home?

if I read his post right, I think Colin B soloed the descent route.

the area went south the minute someone said anything about the illusion wall on cc.com and yours truly showing up there only made it worse.

alright maybe I am severely mistaken, but I thought that the device in the photo was a small diameter wrist roller? Mikey, are you thinking this is a self massage tool? While we are at it,, what do the professionals think about the armaid and other things like that? (saw a review of these in climbing magazine a couple months back)

Nice! that makes 4 routes now on that wall? question about the approach to the wall. There is a slab with a fairly high "approach shoe pucker factor" and some single bolts above. Is there any rational why I could not leave some old rope fixed line there? Is that area a "filter" to keep the riff raff out? Just wondering if I left a rope there, if someone would take it down.

unless I am missing something, put the hash pipe down Mike.

better that than collapse on somebody walking ontop of it.

MEC had a patagonia r1 hoodie knockoff. Don't remember the name but you are a smart enough guy.

Nice job. Maybe if you enlarge the gripping surface to a larger diameter, the blister issue will go away. Maybe lots of duct tape where you grip the wood. (uh...that just sounds kinda wrong to perverts)

rejoice in presence of others and cry like a little baby at night.

a whole new sport....not much avi hazard but something far more dangerous...cross traffic. nice find.

For the record. 7:07 and my crew is closing shop now after an 11 hr day. But we do get to be outside the next two days! Now I'm joining Sobo Can't be working that hard as he made at least 13 posts to cc.com in that "work day".

In case anyone was thinking about a little outdoor kids adventure with this good weather, you can still drive to the big 4 TH and a nice boot pack all the way to the ice caves. Very nice little hike right now for the little ones. There were adults and kids sledding down a small smooth patch of snow between large avi debris at the caves area. People like there sledding and I suppose that the chance of a avi coming down is small but the evidence is so clear.