genepires

pure terror. makes me glad spring is here.

nice job! purdy pictures too.

new waterproofing for outgear? Using a thin layer of nano-mechanically attached air to keep water from attaching to any material. Not sure if it can breath out water vapor though. (sorry about not being able to imbed the video directly...poor internet skills on my part)

there is plenty of anti vaccination quakery going on around here.

Dr. Layton is all about quakery and pseudo scientific bollocks

I could be wrong but I thought a hybrid crampon worked on boots that did not have a toe welt by using a plastic or nylon strap over the toe instead of the usual metal bail. strap on toe and a clamp on heal.

Can't remember the author, but someone who is reputable was saying that this boot might be able to replace all of his boots. One boot for everything except denali. I have no actual experience with this boot as $500 is way out of my price range.

Anyone have experience with a MSR Whisperlight at elevation? Wind, cold or altitude have any disastrous effects? have used whisperlites up there on denali. no problem with altitude or cold as long as you are talking about the white gas fuel. I think they may have a butane version. wind is a problem for all stoves but that is why you have windscreens. As you go up in elevation, you need to open up the windscreen a little for air. If you want some efficiency for cooking/melting with team of three 1-bring a small wood platform to place your stove and fuel canister on. I would secure that small round metal shield to the wood the set the stove on 2-cook tent of some kind. megamid or similar. cooking in a vestibule is possible but cook tents are better. social plusses. 3-bring one big pot to melt snow in. one that can fit two stoves under. You will need a couple windshields to cover that big bad baby. This will stay at 14K camp as well as the cook tent. 4-dip cup to pour water into water bottles. never drink out of dip cups to keep from spreading disease. be anal about spreading bugs. A simple cough/cold will kill your chance of summiting. purel often. 5-hot water bottles for sleeping at "night". 6-for below 14k camp, consider traveling at night and sleeping during the day so that you travel when the snow is firmer. Not needed earlier in the season. 7-as mentioned earlier, have repair kit and be familiar with problem solving of the stove. bring spare pump for sure. (plastic and cold sometimes don't work best)

crag till you are very proficient. lead in the mountains a couple number grades smaller than your crag grade. If you can easily lead 5.8 at the crags, then stick to 5.6 in the mountains. So if you are not a proficient leader, then climb 4th class routes in the mountains. Plenty of options there. You may still decide to rope up for 4th class. the tooth, south face, comes to mind at 5.6 and close to your home guye peak (not improb traverse line) has 4th class routes on it. also at snoq pass. ingalls peak, s face, is a sweet 5.6 Strong rock climbing skills is a paramount to climbing in the mountains. If you are weak there, then build that up before going into technical terrain, even 4th class. And when I say rock climbing, I mean trad climbing and place gear.

if you will be climbing with another person with a rack, then the doubles will be unneeded as the partner will make the double set. but your rack sounds good. where are you thinking of leading at? this may alter your rack needs somewhat.

spray is dead? the 5 people who post here must be in the hills.

any wall of death can be slain by judicious amounts of bolts. murdering the impossible, one bolt at a time.

N face of Eiger is the "wall of death" even though it has been speed climbed several times. what qualifies as a "wall of death"? vegas odds are in favor of Dan skiing the n face eiger.

I would rather be hit by a stick than shot at by a gun.

would this have happened if the unborn child was armed?

so who gets to be the authority on who is allowed to own a gun or not? tea party and NRA would get real bent on this possibility.

was just talking about bugaboos and gimli with a fellow who is doing a long road trip this summer. damn I miss the bugs. thanks! was real cool to see the "other sides" of those mountains.

make your own holds and abuse the f!@k out of it. either wood or resin/sand. local Dave Burdick has a good method for homemade holds. http://www.alpinedave.com/misc/holds/hold_making.htm

looking for some climbing at index this saturday, in the 5.9 range. drop me a line.

never trust anyone with a facial hair

The only way I can lose that house would basically preclude me from purchasing anything else for at least 7 years Have you looked into a HARP refi (recently)? They seem to be a lot easier to get now than a few years ago. Sure....for primary residences. Doh! just finished a harp refi for a rental property. I think it added around .4% to the rate for a investment property.

spray aside, what do you want in your neighborhood? I really enjoy being 15 minutes from index, 45 minutes from stevens pass and 90 minutes from leavenworth. being within striking dsistance of snoq pass is not a benefit when deciding between the two passes. but being closer to rainier would be nice. Comparing hwy2 traffic to seattle traffic is a joke. Nothing has prolly changed so I think you already have all the info you need to decide on which place to live.

if twight calls it cheating, I will go out and buy one. full retail.

can non-Danes chime in? For $700 I could pay someone to make me lose 5 pounds of blubba which would have benefits year round. the idea of waterproof down seems odd as it should be butt ass cold to wear a down jacket, therefore not needing waterproofing. It does seem like a good product and pataguchi don'e usually put out crap so I suspect that it lives up to its self hype. Now I wouldn't go out and get one unless it was a present, severe sale or found in the mountains. But I am a sorta old fart and resistant to new idears and gear. maybe it is the game changer.

grumpy cat has landed on cc.com all hail grumpy cat.