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genepires

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Everything posted by genepires

  1. Didn't know that was even possible. sorry to hear about it and hope that it works well for ya.
  2. I am the 2%
  3. pretty strong statement. can you give an example of this cordelette anchor failure? You can look it up in Rock and Ice and ANAM and will gadd's blog just as easy as I can. did search will gadd's site and what I could in the R&I. Nothing about cordelette anchor failures. So do you have an example of a cordelette anchor failure in real life or just testing? Maybe you can point me in the right direction instead of being rude? Your answer is more typical of a response to a politically directed question to someone who does not have an answer. Typically "go find it yourself".
  4. and add the trip up the granite sidewalk to make a sweet semi novice slab experience.
  5. Mikey (Layton) has gots lots of knowledge, experience composure but good judgement only 90% of the time.
  6. pretty strong statement. can you give an example of this cordelette anchor failure?
  7. Hey b free, maybe you need to define what steep alpine ice means to you? The definition can range anything from 20 deg snow to 45 deg ice faces to 70 deg gulley ice. IMO, those three scenarios would use three different tools ranging from 60cm straight shaft to something like the grivel alp wing to the nomic respectively. Sure the nomic could do all three but I think it is not best suited to all three. Just my opinion. On 30deg ice, I don't like the reverse curve picks but classic curve picks work great. With that, a tool that offers a classic or a reverse curve pick would be nice. (BD) for the shaft on alpine ground, I prefer a straight shaft near the spike and the curve near the top, like most ice tools are now. But I like the simple grip area for when it needs to be plunged into snow. So yeah the grip area doesn't have a pommel, but I am a leash wearing fool anyway. take your pick when it comes to leashes and grip pommels.
  8. I have met more resistance to the legalization from church going country folk who think it is a gateway drug.
  9. Show me one average person (not in law enforcement) that cheers these busts and thinks they are a great idea. I have asked 4 police officers about their thoughts on the legal weed bill before it was passed and they all said they were glad to not have to bother with busting pot heads. They only arrested for possession when it was convienent to get someone off the street. Granted it was a survey of 4.
  10. SAID principal. Specific Adaptation to Induced Demands. to maximize alpine climbing training, induce demands that are like alpine training. So the most obvious is to do the activity as often as possible. If alpine climbing is hiking up mountains with a 40lb load to a base camp, then load up your pack to 40lb and hike up icicle ridge trail. If alpine climbing is long day trips up to colchuck peak, then start trail running around your low land hills. You are at a location and point in skillz that really focusing on training is almost pointless. Much better to get out and have fun for whatever the season offers. Ski in the winter. rock climbing in the spring. alpine jaunts in the summer. Lament the rain in the fall and call it a download season. Focus more on gaining a variety of skills and the fitness will follow. If you have to train for alpine, power up icicle ridge trail after work a couple times a week.
  11. I am pretty fond of the bonus 10b pitch on silent running. can't remember the name (either big tree 2000 or cornocopia) but there was some sweet pitched on that somewhere. would add the rash to this but that runout on second pitch excludes it from my book. my favorite pitches are not runout ones. good topic for a rainy day.
  12. genepires

    No power

    If costco was going to be able to sell 10 lb bags of weed, the state would not even need a public vote to make legal.
  13. nice. so why is it better to do this line in the fall vs spring? Mixed line covered under snow?
  14. the first rule of patagonia climbing is never talk about patagonia climbing.
  15. oops, my post made it to the 3rd page.
  16. now it is back down to 2 pages. ?????
  17. Once again, yes their response was late but the email was appropriate. Seeing that it appears that you are trying to slander cilogear, how about showing us the second email? If the language was rude, then I can understand why they did not respond. I can only imagine the contents of the letter. In general, most companies do not take back product without a return authorization number of some kind.
  18. Their response sounds reasonable. If it came with seam grip and you didn't think it was needed, then it is your fault. I bought a BD epic tent and was told to seam grip it also. Did I scream about the work I had to do? no. it came with seam grip and I applied it as directed. Somebody call BD and tell them not to sell a megamid to this guy. Might have to apply some seamgrip. Oh the Horror!
  19. Got these 2 screws but would like to sell them. They do not have the turn cranks. But they are the 22cm long size and still sharp. these are $46 each new. sell for $20 each plus shipping if needed.
  20. La sportiva glacier boot size 10.5 well used and free. Got these boots that don't work for me anymore. They are about 11 years old and have lots of use. Sole and leather is fine. Just that is is flexible in the sole like a regular shoe. If any poor climber could use a waterproof leather mountaineering shoe, drop me a PM. BTW, if you want it, you gotta come and get it. no shipping.
  21. FS: Black Diamond Xenos size medium. Worn less than 10 times; practically brand new. Retail: $130 Yours: $60 shipped to WA/OR Pics available upon request (it is in my gallery here but I am struggling to post it) I bought these from John Freih on this forum but we got the sizes mixed up. So I am putting it up on the auction block.
  22. plenty of racists like to get nasty with that they hate. plenty of people become racists mid life. (no one is born racist)
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