genepires

opinions are like......well you know. And I got one of each. I would suggest to buy double ropes in pairs. Have them the same age and previous use is better than having an old a new one. Now if the "old" rope was 6 months old, then it would not matter.

The degree of safeness is in the order of .1% safer. cause the situation is so specific that it is easily remedied. you want an example, here is one. Lets make the difference in lengths longer to illustrate the situation. -Lets use your 60 and 70 m rope differential. - you forget to tie knots in the end of the ropes. -it is a 65m rappel. -you look down see one end on the ground and mistakenly think it is ok to go - you never notice that the 60m rope end it not touching and it goes through your brake hand -you fall 15 ft to ground or farther Three mistakes (no knot, no visual that both ends on ground and not being hyper vigilant about the rope ends) to make it happen. Unlikely but possible. I know because I have done the 3 mistakes and have fallen 15 feet. Now take that to this current situation. With unequal ends, there is a chance that one end will be on the ground and the other not. So you may see one end on the ground and assume that both are. Granted it will be a 6ft fall at worst but in my case, my 15 ft fall lead to another 20 ft fall below the belay ledge. So the 6ft may lead to a longer fall. SO how safer is it to have equal lengths? maybe 1% but still safer and requires multiple mistakes to be made.

left hand meet the right hand http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1090038#Post1090038

right hand meet the left hand http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1089960/Petzl_Dart_Monopoint_Side_Lock#Post1089960

you could be if you wanted to. (actuary, not removal from hazard pool)

if you are rapping more than 58m ... yr dead regardless of whether its 2 58m or a 58m+ 60m ... except this time BOTH ends zip out of your plate ... if its not > 58m neither will zip out ... again can anyone give me an example where 2 58m is safer than a 58m+ 60m on the same rap???? or are we just trying to win an intraweb argument here without thinking about it first ... i have a mammut galaxy 10mm and a tendon ambition 10.2mm ... they are both theoretically 60m but there is probably a 2m difference between em form the factory .. are you saying that it is UNSAFE to use both on a 60m rap ????? you do realize that people rap off a rope + 7mm tag line where due tor stretch and sizing there is very likely a 2m+ difference all the time ... are they "unsafe" THINK people ... dont just go "unsafe, unsafe, unsafe" maybe you should slow down and read what people are saying. Dave is not saying one is safe and the other unsafe. He is saying one is safer than the other. And that difference is very small but still measurable. Also people are questioning whether the inconvenience of having uneven ropes is low enough to warrant keeping uneven ropes. where is anyone saying one situation is unsafe? put down the crack pipe.

nocturnal pee emissions is a good reason to use a synthetic bag.

Actually his choice is between rapping 59 or 58, so the difference is 3 feet, not 6, which makes it even more sensible to me to even up the ropes. damn metric system. math was never my strong point.

never been on hood in winter but I have heard that it can get wind scoured so that hard snow is exposed. Usually ski poles are more useful than ice axes for volcanoes in the winter. good luck and be conservative. I am sure you are familiar with the winter hood tragedies.

If you leave them unequal, you will have more rope for rappels. Assuming 60m ropes, you will be able to make 59m rappels. Equaling the lengths gives you 58m rappels. Is the 6ft extra length of rappel matter to you? enough to warrant the un-eveness of the ropes at every belay? I would think that the extra hassle (minor as it is) would not be justified by the extra 6ft of rappel. Now if it was a 50m pair of ropes, I would think differently.

Was just commenting on the fact that according to his photos, it seemed like the there were a couple more pitches ice right around the pencil area than in the usual later seasons that I have been there.

the purpose of a leash is many fold. the best use of a wrist leash for climbing is to support weight when on steep ground, in poilet traction, so the grip strength is not a factor. tethers are for not losing tools. Are you sure you wanna climb with someone who is so anal as to dictate that you must use a wrist leash? I run from people like that.

for alpine climbing, the risk of a lost ice axe due to dropping is so overrated. In my 20+ years of climbing I have never dropped one, seen someone drop one, heard of someone drop one or even came close to dropping one. Even the consequence of a dropped is 99% of time nothing worse than bending over to pick it back up. Now the risk of using a leash in the alpine while in a uncontrolled fall down a snow slope is great. If I do not have control of the axe while sliding, I do not want it anywhere around me. There will be no magical flick to regain control of the axe and perform a standard self arrest. There is only pulling the axe out of your body. Learn how to do a feet and elbow self arrest and forgo the leash all together. Now of your climb has some steep ice, then a wrist leash has value and used for that purpose. When the angle lessens, the wrist leash comes off, the loop draped over the pick then adze and down the shaft to be kept out of the way. Just my opinion, but the harness to tool leash is the most useless and dangerous thing you can do in regards to typical axe use. The only time it makes sense to use a harness to axe leash is on fixed lines. BTW, my opinions are for alpine only and not ice climbing where the situation is different. Also may not apply for someone doing a high altitude climb.

seems like the ice pitches below the pencil are just snow climbing later on in the season.

what is wrong with having people "lurk"? Is it because lurkers don't add to an advertising count? (besides just not contributing to the site) Advertising will push people to log in and submit TR's?

I have been using weed wack wire in lieu of usual wire in broken wire repairs. Some have been on for 10 years with not a single sign of cracks. IMO, the kevlar trigger cord is an improvement over metal cables but second best to weed wack cord.

I would say for a #11 #11- the beacon rock post count accelerates exponentially. But the reality is that this train ride has been going light speed since inception. And we all know about going faster than the speed of light.

we should all be so lucky. thanks for sharing.

forget the trade. buy these http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1089111/Pair_of_old_Quarks_spare_picks#Post1089111 and sell yours.

Blake had a write up of that route in rock and ice, I believe. Something like favorite unknown routes or something.

waterfall buttress area below e face three fingers. near roan wall sorta. His home away from home. Me thinks he has a PO box out there somewhere.

The sigline is sarcasm, I take it. no insult intended. Just a response to bearbreeder who is a stated 5.12 good climber and that him and his friends use all kinds of gear. Since he is using "good" to describe 5.12, I used "good" in my line. A better statement would be "If you are a 5.12 climber, you prolly are not asking the original question" FWIW, if 5.12 is good, I am not a good climber.

If you are a good climber, you prolly are not asking the original question.

lots of thick ice on the 10 degree hiking trail up to the pilchuck lookout.

Check it out, another climber on ellation. Will make Darin a happy little monkey!