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About jakedouglas

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  • Birthday 06/11/1987


  • Location
    North Bend, WA
  1. [TR] Chair Pk - NW Ridge 02/11/2018

    Yup, had this in the back of my head since then. Very cool to see it done.
  2. [TR] Mount Rainier - Success Cleaver 6/26/2017

    When you say that it does not involve significant glacier travel, would you consider it a reasonable solo? Would it be overly tedious to downclimb the route rather than carrying over? I would like to summit Rainier alone someday, but all of the glacier travel is a little beyond my risk tolerance except maybe a well-worn DC path in the proper condition.
  3. Paradise to Camp Muir

    Go very early or later when the sun goes down. Going up to Muir in the mid day heat SUCKS. It will drain your energy and require carrying tons of water. 11:00am would be my last choice of time to start. 3 hours with an overnight pack is on the fitter end of the range, and is probably not necessary to exert yourself that much on day 1. Guide services regularly take 6-7 hours to Muir and still somehow still get those people to the top of the mountain. IMO it should take you 4-5 max or your fitness/pack weight are probably in question.
  4. 2016/17 Ice Conditions

    Bryant Buttress was still in pretty fat today. Thanks to whoever installed the bolted anchor at the top. Makes it much faster for a group to get in and out and not hold up the show messing with trees. Kiddie Cliff and Chockstone also looked fat. There was definitely ice on Source Lake Line but I've never been up close so hard to tell how in it was. Alpental Falls stuff looked like it was still there, too.
  5. I took a weekend WFA course a number of years ago and didn't feel like I took as much away from it as I wanted. I think a lot of this is just the short amount of time involved and I have always wanted to take WFR since, simply for the longer period of immersion in the material.
  6. Myself and Brett Purchase tried to get on this yesterday but found the ice on the first pitch to be very aerated. It climbed great, but the screw placements were all marginal at best so we backed off. We scrambled far up the treed rib to check out the second flow (third pitch), and it looked like it would take better pro but by then it was too late in the day to start up it. Curious if this was your experience as well. I live close to Middle Fork and paid close attention to the weather since the FA, and I didn't think it would have gotten warm enough to deteriorate much beyond the surface ice. When we arrived there was a lot of fairly soft new avalanche debris at the bottom, so I don't think it rained much if at all on the route in the preceding days.
  7. This looked so rad I had to check it out today even though I couldn't rustle up a partner to climb it. FWIW one can cut climbers right out onto the slide path before this snowy talus field and with some low angle scrambling gain what I think was the bench that you started your P1 from. This provides a nice view of the route and avoids the talus field and treed rib. Can't wait to get on it.
  8. 2016/17 Ice Conditions

    Climbed the right most flow at Alpental Falls this morning. Protection was poor on the lower part and there are still sections of thin ice and snow over rock, but it's pretty easy and up higher it's fat and solid where it steepens. Short on screws, rope, and time, I opted to belay and rap from the tree on the right hand side rather than do the final steep top out. You could also v-thread from several places on the final steep section. Hacked off as much moldy old tat as I could fit in my pockets, but there is plenty left to clean (what a mess!).
  9. 2016/17 Ice Conditions

    I took a look at Practice Gully this morning. It was not in.
  10. ultralight down quilt or sleeping bag?

    I wish that FF would make a ground sheet that zips onto the Flicker and have mentioned this to an employee. A two person bag is a lot to commit to money-wise, but a one person bag that turns into a two person bag would be rad. Good to know it works OK as a quilt for two.
  11. Favorite leader packs?

    I agree that the shoulder straps on the Flash would be miserable for carrying the weight of rope and rack for more than a very short distance.
  12. Moderate volcano/easy alpine partner

    I didn't know that Sketchy Dan guy was back in the game! I would consider Tahoma Glacier but would need a few warmups first to gauge my interest and comfort level. Seems like a substantial step up.
  13. I have slogged up the easiest routes on most of the volcanos several times each and have a little winter alpine climbing experience. Also got some ice experience in Hyalite this winter. Would like to step it up this year and try to knock out DC in one push, Kautz to DC carryover, Baker NR, maybe Shuksan. I ski so that could be involved to some degree. Also interested in other easier snow climbs, e.g. Lane Peak or Stuart Range couloirs. Can progress to rock as summer goes on. Looking for someone with a similar level of experience who is going to be available with enough consistency to hit the nice weather windows and get stuff done. Safe, understand the importance of fitness and light weight gear. Can ski to Muir in < 2:30, easy pace is ~3:30, shooting for an overnight pack weight around 30 lbs this year. I tie knots in the rope (>30m) for 2 person glacier travel, carry just enough stuff to spend an unexpected night out, serious about getting stuff done but don't have summit fever either. If this sounds like your style hit me up.
  14. I have a yellow Volant with hood, size large. It is a little too much jacket for what I do. Has a black smudge on the front from god knows what, but it isn't particularly unsightly. Otherwise in great shape. Was professionally cleaned at Rainy Pass Repair in the fall and has been in my pack a handful of times over the winter ski touring. Interested in trading for a FF Hooded Helios in XL preferably, but open to trying on L.