genepires

interesting thoughts on choices of lines to ride on. very conservative which is surprising coming from a snowboarder. http://jonessnowboards.com/Avalanche-Awareness-Clean-Lines.html?debut_page=@1424

not sure if this will work as I don't own one of those tools, but how about finding a lock washer to fits under the bolt? if you can find that, it will work much better than loctite.

not a chestbeating, but for ice climbing, I rarely felt that I needed mittens for belays for two reasons 1- if you can keep your core warm, then the extremities will keep their blood flow and keep them warm with thin or regular dry gloves. Now keeping the core warm can sometimes by tricky but it is possible if you keep a belay parka swapped between the two climbers as they go up. Multiple gloves (with the previously used pair being dried inside jacket) always keeps the hands coverd with dry gloves. 2- if it is so cold that I can't keep warm with just gloves, it is too cold for me. I dislike brittle dinner plating ice. But you are asking about "oh shit mitts" so it sounds like you are climbing in "oh shit its fucking cold" conditions.

very cool! mtn loop hwy has ice?

Pat's statement about gun ownership decreasing with the younger crowd is supported by that graph above. according to 2 different surveys (gallup and GSS), gun ownership has been slipping for a while. (ah shucks, you beat me to it Rob) are folks saying that middle aged men are giving up their guns and the young folks are rushing to them? that seems unlikely.

there was some TR posted about 5 years ago during another wicked cold snap with someone climbing ice off of the clear creek rd. Maybe hanman and maybe this asbestos creek falls. I think it faces due south so it is baked and would take prolonged cold to form.

what is the point? the gun laws change over time?

that needs to be shown at all organized club basic climbing classes. and whenever someone posts a question about how to setup a two person glacier team. The real sobering fact is that they knew it was coming and still had failures. imagine the "tired zombie walk state" that is typical in a glacier plod. I used to do this to my students but with different backup systems. I think theirs offers a more realistic failure than mine did. I would be too scared to make the student fall that far before catching. Anyways, we did have a few self belay failures but for the most part they nailed it well. (no butterflies, 45 feet apart)

I thought Dane was selling them. if not, he may know where to get them. PM him.

nice job! note to self, go in may.

Sounds like you're getting milked by your insurance company. They loves them some high health care costs. HELLOOoo....This is Obamacare, Washington State version. I'm getting milked by your program! Geeez, you guys really don't have any clue, do you. Avoiding the question. where did you get the $11K from? Is that equal to your new premiums?

plenty of other civilized countries manage to make it happen without it costing their equivalent of $11K. and plenty as in all of the countries that have single payer healthcare. where do you get the $11K number?

this is a complete guess but Mt Fairweather in the Fairweather range? The photos I have seen of this mountain don't have that feature but maybe it is on a seldom traveled side of the mtn?

[video:youtube]dKia7Xj34MQ assuming you are not joking, are you saying that you are against everything? An angry old man? Why is being happy 24 hrs a day a bad thing?

I think I liked it better when I thought that FW was just really passionate about bolting and the direction the sport was going. Elitist but based on standards and principals. But now I know that he is just a blowhard like the rest of the folks in spray.

action + talk < action any amount of talk deters from the experience of the action for the participant and possibly the audience as well. So it would be a negative value. all this does not apply to well done slide shows, movies and books. BTW the whole A-T=0 has a problem with inconsistent units. assuming action is measured in joules and talk is measured in quantity of spittle ejected during talk.

Alright monkeys, can you keep this thing helpful before it gets moved to spray. geez.

sport climbing near seattle that you can make projects of? sounds like you are stuck around exit 32/38 with your best bet at the WW1 wall. But I couldn't touch a 5.11 on the best days so what do I know? but in an effort to be helpful PM Rad and he may show you around an area he as been developing that has yet to attract crowds. Not sure if it haas the grades you seek. PM wallstein, he is a rad climber who knows his stuff. There is some "hidden" cave somewhere on the middle fork of the snoqualmie that is supposed to be overhanging (go figure) sport climbing. really tough stuff from what I read a long time ago. There was some thread here somewhere about how to find this spot. hard to find and may involve some good old fashion cascade approaching. Still a crag day trip though, but you may be going through some prickly bastards to get there. Hopefully someone who actually is helpful will chime in. good luck

nice cartoon. the thought captions could say "if these idiots would just carpool, I could be home now" carpooling is probably a more reasonable solution than bus for most people. WAIT! bike riders place bolts! resume standard spray dialog.

this conversation is way too civil. lets turn up the heat and get some hatin' and "frothing at the mouth" rapid smackin' of the keyboards action please.

arguing with a fool proves there are two of them.

climbs AND drills bolts holes too! too bad you can't set up a TR off its claws. robo climb up with the rope attached, then you get your turn.

put down the crack pipe. where are these underhanded insults?

I believe bicyclist are required by law to observe the traffic laws already. FW, aren't you the small government, don't tax me or tell me what to do guy? And you are proposing that some group (guessing you are not a bike commuter) should be infringed upon by the government? very consistent and considerate you are. Being a jackass is not a reason to be taxed. If so, then there would be a tax for everyone on this spray forum.

in the original photo above, it looks like the belayer is not even looking at the mirror parts but looking up like not wearing the fancy glasses at all.