genepires

I prefer to keep in touch with my wife and post on the internet via carrier pigeon.

yes until that face on the amber alert is someone you know. then it is fuckin important. Someone is in trouble and one can't be bothered to give a simple look? Way to be civil and member of society. If you can't give a rats ass about an abducted kid, why should anyone give a care about your anti bolts ranting? Why do you hate kids so much? was your local crag bolted by 7 year olds?

I think the cowboy from Wy has got the story straight and the reactionists are just......reacting as they always do. The sky is falling down! thanks for bringing sensibility to the clown punching shit show.

is that the cascade burger place?

great to have a photo description of the east ledges descent now. so you were happy with your choice in the "Climbing a gully back to the col" photo? that is the best gulley right?

that is awesome. in addition to good ole nationalistic pride for 2 yanks standing on the top two spots of the podium, but we have more local boy pride for us!

teh good thing about J tree is that if it is cold, you can walk to the other side of the rock and climb in the sun. much easier to chase the sun there than at red rocks. never been to tuscon so I can't speak to the ability to chase the sun there. J tree is just a awesome place to be. what about smith? MIght be good there too as you have options of sun exposure as well.

j tree for rock banff for ice pretty much opposite ends of the spectrum. vegas would work if all you wanted to do was sport climb. dem canyons get cold. need sun in january.

copied and pasted from summitpost. hoping the best for the lad. "found out on Josh's facebook account that he had a bad fall near the Banff area and just returned home with many injuries. Here is a first mention of his accident : "Josh is in Calgary, and his mom has spoken to a doctor at the facility. He has a spinal and collarbone fracture and and is undergoing surgery tomorrow to his finger. Josh's mom feels that his climbing partner was very heroic in his endeavor to get Josh safely off the mountain and is grateful for all of his help." Here is his first post since returning home : "I am so thankful to have made it home alive from a serious mountain climbing accident. I broke my collar bone, shattered my pinky, fractured many spots in my back and neck, a nasty puncture in my side, big lacerations in my head, and many more minor injuries. It will be a long time until I get back into climbing. Even being able to eat food by myself sounds good." Seems that Josh is already back online and probably will soon connect to SP. Let's wish him a quick recovery." and "Clavicle surgery went well. Had 8 screws placed in with a plate. Found out that my spine compression was worse than I originally thought. Went from being average height to being short. I don't mind that so much except that it might have some serious consequences on my back/neck in the future. At least the pain isn't so bad so far, pain meds are keeping me dizzy. And again, I feel quite fortunate to make it out of the ordeal alive. I am only down to a single finger on one hand which will make typing a lot harder. Especially with the cast getting in the way with that hand. My brother should aid me on this at times."

take about $20 from your stash and buy an umbrella to go with the rain jacket.

been feeling like a punch to the gut since this morning.........the why's don't matter at this time......time to grieve.

those were some worthless neighbors. several people saw them on the roof?

something between Washington pass and I90. open to many possibilities. something in the 5.9 to easy 5.10 range or mountaineering. if I don't get any hits, then a walk up Mt Pugh.

I would think people helping people is the American way regardless of the forum or it's application. Please forgive me. you don't understand what he is trying to say. the answer to your question is different between rock climbers and tree climbers. Most people are assuming you are asking in regards to rock climbing. You are assuming a negative purpose to Bronco's comment.

let me know if you are free for sunday. that is my day.

"I got lowe balls and large nuts" love the book MIke. got me a copy this time! well worth it as it may take a year to absorb all the info. Amazing that one person can know so much.

hey Dan. if no one takes you up on those shoes, maybe they would be a good donation to something like a VW climbing team or a "hoods in the woods" group. there has to be some non profit outdoor education outfits around. Seems like those sizes would fit kids I got a pair of rock shoes in that same size range that I could donate if you find a good cause.

excellent climb and a excellent write up. a disfunctional arm would have stopped most people. that Zeb is an animal.

I believe Yates sells a adjustable daisy chain that has a built in load limiter. so the static line is fixed to above the tree stand? you have some kind of ladder to get up to the stand? Cavers have extrensive methods and tools for ascending fixed static ropes. try reading this about short static falls, which you are exposed to with this system. http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/the-dangers-of-short-static-falls It really would not be hard or expensive to put some dynamic components in your system. If you are worried about the damage from sitting in a harness for a while, then you should really be concerned about static falls.

should be fine. alpine fine that is. not squamish fine.

worried about the loss of strength due to girth hitching but planning on this? wrong priorities. I hope this is just a self belay of a fixed line. If so, there are much better devices to use, ones that would slide up smoothly therefore not generating that "max 2ft" fall potential. like a micro traxion or this http://www.kong.it/doc/Kong_Back-Up.pdf Heck even a unmodified gri gri works better. even so, use a dynamic rope to mitigate any small fall onto the rope.

this makes no sense... shudder to hear the story behind the use of this. money says that it is a bad idea. a very bad idea.

that list of required proof did not say passport. he may have had a passport and still be required to have proof of US residence. (in that border guards opinion) passport does not prove that he lives in USA.

http://unofficialnetworks.com/2014/08/sad-news-from-moab-the-tower-known-as-the-cobra-has-fallen-before-and-after-photo always dreamt of someday going to fisher to climb the cobra. just goes to show that procrastination is a bad thing. Better go jump on el cap before it falls down.

there is one trad line at exit 38 that I know of. it is on the Far Side at Shagri La. (I killed the spelling of this place) It is 5.10 something and pretty fun. If you ask Rad, he may take you out there for a tour. Seems like there are some trad lines around blackstone wall area at exit 32. Vantage has a trad climb sandwiched between every column. Index may be the bestest closest trad area around.