genepires

Plenty of ways to skin the perviable cat. Plenty of pluses and minuses of using both webbing or rope for anchors. No reason to get all hot and mighty with your opinion.

If I even manage to rock climb again, I want Wayne to belay me. That is some great belay technique and analysis. I don't think most belayers would have the wherewithal to know to jump down to remove enough slack. Old school knowledge.

sounds like you need to add a few things which is pretty easy to find cheap except for the boots. -good boots with small gaiters. not the large Outdoor research kind. -knit hat -thin glove liners and maybe add a mitten shell over that -thin schoeller pants. think used at second hand sports or on the used gear forum here -nylon windpants. the real expense will come when you need to acquire the climbing gear like crampons, axe, harness and so forth.

On the needing work part, on your frequency question, how is it that there are once a month, once a year then a less than every 2 year option? Isn't that redundant and causes bad data? Plus the choices of gear manufacturer, most of them don't even make the gear you are asking about.

The question of cordellete vs sewn runner is answered by how many and how far the protection pieces are. It is real hard to equalize 3 piece anchor with a 48" runner and still keep the angle reasonable. Usual bolt anchor is fine.

It is a Swiss commercial.

http://unofficialnetworks.com/2016/03/watch-finally-the-europeans-built-touring-snowblades being a 20+ year snowboarder gives me little thought of taking up skiing but these snowblades may convert me to a two plank life style. if you would allow me to be liberal with the term plank in regards to snowblades. may turn out to be a great ice climbing approach tool though.

Are you suggesting he nominates himself? there was a image floating around FB responding to the senate majority leader refusing to even discuss the replacement to the SCOTUS vacancy. The ghist was wait till Obama is out of office so that Obama can be nominated to fill the spot.

my point being is that one doesn't need to follow "what comes around goes around". When encountering someone with road rage, you can either respond in kind or be kind. Yeah Bob says crazy shit. But are we required to follow suit? what happened to free will? Does it make you feel better to respond? Peace out bruthas!

I realize that your ice tool is expensive but there has to be serious consideration about do you want a tether system if you do not have control of the tool. the way I see it, for most alpine situations you have 4 situations in which you lose control of the ice tool: 1. you drop the tool but it lands in snow and slides very little and easy to pick back up. tether not needed 2. you are in a self arrest situation. you are probably using your mtn axe to self arrest so that ice tool is not being used. a tethered tool may be swinging around and become a serious danger. tethered becomes a hazard. 3. you are in a self arrest situation. you dropped your mtn axe and using the ice tool to self arrest. If you lose control of that ice tool while trying to self arrest, once again you have a potential sharp instrument to impale yourself against. tethered becomes a hazard. best to lose the tool and use a hands/feet self arrest. 4. You are climbing some steep terrain and you drop a tool. I think this is unlikely and does not provide enough justification to subject yourself to situation 2 or 3. How often have you dropped a tool while ice climbing? I realize that most people have a impression that things like this will never happen. (need to self arrest) But why do people assume that they will not fall but assume they will drop tools on a regular basis and therefore need tethers? My thoughts on leashes in alpine are the same as tethers. I am very against any form of connection between sharp instruments and my body. (can't do anything about crampons) I have seen way too many self arrest failures in a practice environment where a leashed (or tethered tool) could have posed a serious threat. In every case of self arrest failure, that tool went flying away and the person slid to the bottom. And these people knew what was coming. Imagine a real life, unexpected and fatigued scenario. please don't dismiss the hazard.

so much hate from people who have never even met Bob. I can only hope that these attitudes are only internet alter-egos like glassgowkiss's, otherwise this site has a lot of A-holes.

Power tripping rudeness has no defense......but who knows, maybe the officer's mom died the day before.

With that kind of potty mouth, you must have tons of ass cream and dildo ads in your banners.

No - I'm not. Doesn't have shit to do with it. then please explain to us layman how it does work. I look at John Oliver show and therefore I am a gun enthusiast? what connection could a gun avoider have that convinces a business that I need a gun?

You're a fuckin idiot. Your own search and viewing history dictates what ads you see. You are wrong. I know that I have never looked for guns on the interest and yet I still see the ads for the outdoor retailer with guns that Bob speaks of. I really doubt that Bob has gone shopping in cabela's.

Pm sent. Not for me but some possible help.

I tried to put my harness on for this route and stumble / fell over. so much for that.

When Tyson.g posted that back in July, 2014 I thought his comment about a cess pool was an analogy. But with Choada Boy's plan for his power dump, maybe Tyson.g's comment was closer to reality than I knew. You knarly climbers do have a unique culture! Don't be put off by the flamin that we give. As in most things inter-nutz related, when you meet even the most violent mouthed spray lord, they are good folk in person. I personally know Choada (Justin T) and he is a reall cool, helpful and interesting person. I bet you two would get along. Forget about the past and just share what you got. We all really appreciate the cool things others do. This is a social media site after all. Would be cool to meet you at a pub party some time.

how good of a rock climber are ya? if you are mainly looking for snow routes, there is a steep gulley on whistler pk that faces liberty bell group. not sure of the route name but it is easy to find in the becky guide. -30 to 35 degree gulley at steepest to rocky 4th class ridge to nice standard scramble on maybe north face to summit with the usual choss-ness that is common to less traveled routes. All this within easy strike distance from road. If BC ski is your big thing, the birthday route tour is good as I have heard. it goes along the spires at one point before dropping over a saddle to more dramatic terrain. day trip. Early may be be kinda cold for pure rock lines at the Pass. maybe not if it is sunny. plenty of easier routes that would be good in cold-ish temps.

Didn't this thing get approved over a year ago? Isn't this way too late? Sounds like a drunk ranting about things long simmering on.

Or maybe this is a troll attempt it piss people off? Would be more fitting if it was labeled, "amazing discovery on the west side of mt Spokane". Then we could really get some hate going on. So is the some kind of public hearing about this expansion? Any place we can send hate mail or emails?

I feel for you man, but this is spray. I don't feel the urge to scream and yell against the OP, which is typical for here. Maybe your posting belongs in the regular forums.

If you have mainly done mid to late summer routes in the enchantments, then maybe early may would give you a whole new feel to a familiar area. There are many routes that are best in may that may be new to you. With the added benefit of better than west side weather. Also would not need a camping permit and road should be clear to TH.

I thought renames only occur for remembrance of dead folk. I ain't planning on dieing soon unless Chris manages my demise in banff. how about a Wolf Bauer Canyon? He rocks and deserves!

yes. they do episodes on all kinds of things, known and unknown. there was a OFG on some new place called Strobach mtn. you know, the one in the ice climbing guidebook. plus you mentioned about not wanting people to get in trouble with descending the slot so you kept it a secret. Yet here we are for all the world to see. here come the hordes. Just saying you could have written a standard TR way back when, instead of that ridiculous secrecy thing. You could have gotten your OFG video anyways without all the secrecy. I may have missed the sarcasm in Darin's comment. Sarcasm is hard for me. I do know that Darin and I have done some amazing first ascents that no one will do. He wrote a TR anyway to spread the stoke. He is not a dick. BTW, those OFG guys are cool. Good bunch of guys.