genepires

wild things, ice sack. I have been using a old rock sack for 6 years now and the thing will not die. Very light and durable, no bull shit featues. the ice sack will do all the things you mntioned so give it a look. they have them at marmot and FF.

I got fred's other boot liner still. Anyone want it for a beckey museum or crazy old man foot fettish, then PM me. Maybe ebay?

Not a local expert but I would bet that there would still be avi hazard on warm days which there should be plenty of if you will be up there at the end of this month. If you do it, getting off before 1pm would be a very very good idea if it is sunny and/or warm.

piolet traction (usual waterice technique) piolet anchor (steepish ground with one tool- traction with a mantle move) several different dagger positions so why do you want another set of tools for?

I like the warning that comes on the page. sounds like it is bad to use the axe for anything that it should be meant for. I guess piolet canne is ok. But don't self arrest with it! WARNING: THE HELIX IS NOT CERTIFIED BY ANY RECOGNIZED MOUNTAINEERING SAFETY ORGANIZATION TO MEET ANY LEVEL OF MINIMUM SAFETY STANDARDS. USING THIS TOOL FOR THE FOLLOWING TECHNIQUES MAY RESULT IN ITS FAILURE WHICH MAY CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH: ICE AXE ARREST, BOOT AXE BELAYS, PLUNGED SHAFT BELAY/ARREST, PIOLET PANNE, PIOLET POIGNARD, PIOLET ANCRE, PIOLET TRACTION, DRY TOOLING, OR OTHER TECHNIQUES BEST SUITED FOR B- OR T-RATED ICE TOOLS.

it is normal and OK. You will continue to learn new things which is one of the reasons that climbing is so much fun. enjoy the confusion and keep practicing.

depends where you want to visit. Squamish? (get the smaller cam) Leavenworth? (get the larger) Index? (get the smaller plus balls!) washington pass? (larger) so where do you see yourself climbing?

sulphide glacier on shuksan is another possibility too. There is one steep suspect slope (avi) once you get past the saddle. But once past that, it should be ok till you get to the summit pryamid which will be steep and maybe too much for you. (don't know you) You may be fine, maybe not, your call. Either way it is fun.

Been on it in late march once and it was really nice. We had a prolonged good weather window which doesn't happen often that time of year. But keep your eye on the forcasts and it will happen. You will have to contend and accept the snow mobilers. That is their playground in the winter and early spring and they are a fairly freindly group is you don't cop an attitude. (maybe even hitch a ride?) They make nice packed track to walk on. Get out of the track when they come buy. The machines tend to not go above the high camps. You could make your camp higher on the glacier (6000 ft or so) to keep out of their way. If you camp lower on the railroad grade area, pick a highly visible spot or a spot tucked in the trees deep where a machine couldn't run over you. Just use common sense and think that some of these guys will be enjoying brews. Yeah, the exhaust smells but that will encourage you to get up higher quicker. The summer trail will be buried so you can try to find it. I have just followed the machine tracks till you get to the glacier and then find a way to the top of the moraine on the climbers left. Alternatively, you could stay on the moraine on the climbers right. Seems like there are less machines over there. You will have to walk an additional 4 miles (give or take a mile) to get to the trailhead. Yes to some kind of flotation. probably use them the whole way till the roman wall. If you need them on the wall, descend instead. you don't want to be on that in those conditions. Bringing wands AND use a gps marking waypoints. If the weather turns, your snowshoe track will fill in within an hour. It is real easy to get lost over there and end up in the deming glacier. (a place you don't want to be) Getting lost is probably your biggest hazard. Be ready for avi's. typical problems but not really that bad as most of the terrain is 20 degree or less. (except the roman wall) creavasses should be mostly well covered and not so much an issue. Normal precautions. I have been on baker lots and that march trip was definately the best. Surreal being up there, all pristine and clean and very very empty midweek. (most machines are weekend types) Just remember to have an accepting attitude to the machiners or else you will just make yourself mad.

Got one back in 97 when I traded a old rope for it. Was the best trade I ever made. The model hasn't changed a bit since. It does work as Max says. There is no fan just a little electric coil to generate the warm air, which rises to create a little breeze but not hard enought to blow gloves off.

another vote for the garmont tower over the trangos. Just a little demo in the store is all the experience I have with the newer trangos but they felt a bit wide while the towers felt like a snugger fit. sorry no experience with the charmoz. I think my bud has them when we went on n ridge baker and he liked his greatly. my towers did very well on that route too.

you trust piezo ignition lighters below sea level?

what kind of climbing do you see yourself doing in 5 years? alpine ice? glacier travel? gnar-gnar? I would say, keep it light but keep it durable. all steel head and light shaft.

tattosh range 1 day trips ruth mtn sulphide glacier on shuksan (with a little 4th class on top which you can do or not do) 2 day colchuck glacier on colchuck pk (go figure) 1 day trip

I would err on the shorter side. A long axe reaches the ground when on low angle or level ground. The support offered by a axe here is unneeded. On steeper ground where the aid in balance is needed most, a long axe is cumbersome. A shorter axe works very well on the 25 to 40 degree slopes. (not talking piolet anchor technique but the regular holding the head of the axe technique) Try to simulate the angle of ground you will be on and see where the axe is when you would be doing the diagonal stride. My 65 cm axe is usually uncomfortably high. I use a 60cm axe for most of my glacier travel. A ski pole in the downhill hand is nice for those lower angle ground.

thanks for the photos. That is some sweet shots! Nice looking climbing shoes and harness. definately a different time. I bet that your dad was very proud that day.

scary. did the poll and 97% said climbers should wear it. would be a real crime if this unscientific poll affects policy.

I have tapped the nut tool with a large locking biner. (if you don't have a big hex) Sometimes I hook the nut tool behind the nut and pull out sideways which sometimes does the trick. climb up a little and sit on the rope so you have two hands to work with.

don't let jens negativity deter you. RR is awesome. Especially on your first trip. If you get the supertopo, you won't go wrong for rock routes. I would like to make a suggestion for a cayoneering trip in zion for your backpacking portion. Is one of the best non-climbing activities going. There was a website that had lots of info on routes there. maybe canyoneeringusa.com/utah/zion you could rent a drysuit just outside of the park (you will want it) and do keyhole and pine creek canyons in the first day, then go in for a multiday canyon after. maybe the full narrows. pm me if you want more info.

does the bottom part ever come out? (while using)

hmm.. ok. the rubber seems to work the same. It is also made for the rubber seals on dive masks so I doubt that it would seriously affect it in anyway. Made for dry suits too so I would guess that it doesn't degrade materials in any way. mirazyme is alot cheaper than new rock shoes. duh.

Really enjoy the reports from the rockies but really, getting all tweeked about the forum name? Cause we don't have a canadian rockies forum? Well I want a mtn loop hwy forum or I will never read here again. Sounds childish. If that is the way he wants to play, fine. Nothing we can't get from their website or gravsports anyway.

not sure really. I've had this bottle around for a long, long time. Maybe 8 years now. I would guess that you could get it at a scuba shop as it seems really geared for funk that grows in wet suits.

SO my rock shoes have some kind of bacterial culture in it that got real smelly when I wear the shoe for any time period. Made the feet smell really bad (it actually offended myself and I can't imagine what it was like for others around) but strangely the shoe didn't smell that bad. The shoe needed some kind of attention to relieve the problem. Things that did NOT work: Throwing the rock shoe in the washing machine Anti bacterial spray from grocery store Something that DID work: Found an old bottle of mirazyme (made by McNett in the b'ham) which is made for washing wet suits, sandals, rock shoes and other sports gear) and followed the directions on the bottle. Made a solution in a 5 gallon bucket and submerged the shoes in it overnight. Next day commenced the 3 day drying session. Happy to say that the shoes do not create the stentch like before and I have used the shoes for about 5 days since the cleaning. Will report if the shoes return to conditions as before but I doubt that it will.

spooning would eliminate some of the drafty, bad seal, issues. Picking the right climbing partner would be even more important.