genepires

canadian rockies trip with couple days in the bugaboos 1 day on sir donald 1 day in the columbia icefields for alpine ice, maybe 2 day on ha ling, castle peak and or temple. oh yeah......

not positive cause I have never done it, but I would think that getting a permit for st helens midweek should be easy. anybody have any thoughts on that? All of the above plus the sahale arm on sahale if your galcier skills are lacking.

a fifty footer on a slab like larabee probably didn't put too much stress on the draw or bolt. rock to skin friction took a good chunk of the forces. Otherwise the bolt in the shitty sandstone would have blown. I knew a guy who fell from near the middle of the cliff while soloing and landed in the low water at high tide. He walked away thanks to the high friction coefficient.

if the weather is so bad that one needs a down jacket, a large group should not be going up. besides when did a volant be a "sick" down jacket. rock and ice parka is sick.

The best mechanic is the one having the most fun. Sorry, but needed to be said sooner or later.

things were crazy crowded in the icicle. 3 groups at alphabet rock and 5 or 6 at careno corners. All good folks with same plans.

Gotta ask, when is your course? If in august, then I would say the precip is fine as the chances of a long rain is very rare. can happen as we had 5 days of hard hard rain once. but that was very rare. any june trip should expect at least 2 days of rain out of a week. So a goretex type jacket is a very good idea. There are several sub $200 jackets out there. Probably find a $100 jacket if you look around. Your "sick" down jacket may be a little excessive. Might be better off with a thin fleece pullover along with soft shell jacket. Another thougt. I assume you are taking a guided course. If so, try contacting your guide with gear questions.

Hey D. Looks sunny towards that way all day. you want me to drive out there and do you a recon?

what do you want the crampon for? alpine travel = sabertooth waterice, mixed and uber alpine terrain = g-12

wild things, ice sack. I have been using a old rock sack for 6 years now and the thing will not die. Very light and durable, no bull shit featues. the ice sack will do all the things you mntioned so give it a look. they have them at marmot and FF.

I got fred's other boot liner still. Anyone want it for a beckey museum or crazy old man foot fettish, then PM me. Maybe ebay?

Not a local expert but I would bet that there would still be avi hazard on warm days which there should be plenty of if you will be up there at the end of this month. If you do it, getting off before 1pm would be a very very good idea if it is sunny and/or warm.

piolet traction (usual waterice technique) piolet anchor (steepish ground with one tool- traction with a mantle move) several different dagger positions so why do you want another set of tools for?

I like the warning that comes on the page. sounds like it is bad to use the axe for anything that it should be meant for. I guess piolet canne is ok. But don't self arrest with it! WARNING: THE HELIX IS NOT CERTIFIED BY ANY RECOGNIZED MOUNTAINEERING SAFETY ORGANIZATION TO MEET ANY LEVEL OF MINIMUM SAFETY STANDARDS. USING THIS TOOL FOR THE FOLLOWING TECHNIQUES MAY RESULT IN ITS FAILURE WHICH MAY CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH: ICE AXE ARREST, BOOT AXE BELAYS, PLUNGED SHAFT BELAY/ARREST, PIOLET PANNE, PIOLET POIGNARD, PIOLET ANCRE, PIOLET TRACTION, DRY TOOLING, OR OTHER TECHNIQUES BEST SUITED FOR B- OR T-RATED ICE TOOLS.

it is normal and OK. You will continue to learn new things which is one of the reasons that climbing is so much fun. enjoy the confusion and keep practicing.

depends where you want to visit. Squamish? (get the smaller cam) Leavenworth? (get the larger) Index? (get the smaller plus balls!) washington pass? (larger) so where do you see yourself climbing?

sulphide glacier on shuksan is another possibility too. There is one steep suspect slope (avi) once you get past the saddle. But once past that, it should be ok till you get to the summit pryamid which will be steep and maybe too much for you. (don't know you) You may be fine, maybe not, your call. Either way it is fun.

Been on it in late march once and it was really nice. We had a prolonged good weather window which doesn't happen often that time of year. But keep your eye on the forcasts and it will happen. You will have to contend and accept the snow mobilers. That is their playground in the winter and early spring and they are a fairly freindly group is you don't cop an attitude. (maybe even hitch a ride?) They make nice packed track to walk on. Get out of the track when they come buy. The machines tend to not go above the high camps. You could make your camp higher on the glacier (6000 ft or so) to keep out of their way. If you camp lower on the railroad grade area, pick a highly visible spot or a spot tucked in the trees deep where a machine couldn't run over you. Just use common sense and think that some of these guys will be enjoying brews. Yeah, the exhaust smells but that will encourage you to get up higher quicker. The summer trail will be buried so you can try to find it. I have just followed the machine tracks till you get to the glacier and then find a way to the top of the moraine on the climbers left. Alternatively, you could stay on the moraine on the climbers right. Seems like there are less machines over there. You will have to walk an additional 4 miles (give or take a mile) to get to the trailhead. Yes to some kind of flotation. probably use them the whole way till the roman wall. If you need them on the wall, descend instead. you don't want to be on that in those conditions. Bringing wands AND use a gps marking waypoints. If the weather turns, your snowshoe track will fill in within an hour. It is real easy to get lost over there and end up in the deming glacier. (a place you don't want to be) Getting lost is probably your biggest hazard. Be ready for avi's. typical problems but not really that bad as most of the terrain is 20 degree or less. (except the roman wall) creavasses should be mostly well covered and not so much an issue. Normal precautions. I have been on baker lots and that march trip was definately the best. Surreal being up there, all pristine and clean and very very empty midweek. (most machines are weekend types) Just remember to have an accepting attitude to the machiners or else you will just make yourself mad.

Got one back in 97 when I traded a old rope for it. Was the best trade I ever made. The model hasn't changed a bit since. It does work as Max says. There is no fan just a little electric coil to generate the warm air, which rises to create a little breeze but not hard enought to blow gloves off.

another vote for the garmont tower over the trangos. Just a little demo in the store is all the experience I have with the newer trangos but they felt a bit wide while the towers felt like a snugger fit. sorry no experience with the charmoz. I think my bud has them when we went on n ridge baker and he liked his greatly. my towers did very well on that route too.

you trust piezo ignition lighters below sea level?

what kind of climbing do you see yourself doing in 5 years? alpine ice? glacier travel? gnar-gnar? I would say, keep it light but keep it durable. all steel head and light shaft.

tattosh range 1 day trips ruth mtn sulphide glacier on shuksan (with a little 4th class on top which you can do or not do) 2 day colchuck glacier on colchuck pk (go figure) 1 day trip

I would err on the shorter side. A long axe reaches the ground when on low angle or level ground. The support offered by a axe here is unneeded. On steeper ground where the aid in balance is needed most, a long axe is cumbersome. A shorter axe works very well on the 25 to 40 degree slopes. (not talking piolet anchor technique but the regular holding the head of the axe technique) Try to simulate the angle of ground you will be on and see where the axe is when you would be doing the diagonal stride. My 65 cm axe is usually uncomfortably high. I use a 60cm axe for most of my glacier travel. A ski pole in the downhill hand is nice for those lower angle ground.

thanks for the photos. That is some sweet shots! Nice looking climbing shoes and harness. definately a different time. I bet that your dad was very proud that day.