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rat

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Everything posted by rat

  1. a little something for you leashless toughies, ice will always dilute your drink. use it sparingly, if at all.
  2. that video is a bit dated. ongoing troubles: http://hunzalandslide.blogspot.com/ http://www.dailytimes.com.pk/default.asp?page=2010%5C05%5C24%5Cstory_24-5-2010_pg7_4 http://pakistaniat.com/2010/05/22/hunza-attabad-landslide/
  3. http://www.justropes.com good deals on skinny mammuts. add about 14 bucks for shipping.
  4. http://www.crackshackormansion.com/
  5. baltoro, your ability to discern sarcasm, sans an emoticon, could use some polishing. i do in fact know this bwrts character and he is undoubtedly laughing at both of us. what really gets me is his "it's all good" attitude, something you thankfully lack. i think it must have something to do with too much good weather, unemployment compensation and a wife that treats him too well. if you were to ask some locals, they might say i clean up too well.
  6. we slid down from easy pass to fisher creek, skinned to the upper basin and up a gully to the lakes, around the south side of arriva, etc. etc. a bit longer than your summer route but good views.
  7. bwrts, those were my cigarette butts and i'm not done with them. you rock police make me sick.
  8. easy pass, silent lakes, fisher pass, douglas glacier. return via fisher creek to easy pass. gives good lines off logan and pk 2411 to the valley bottom. it might not be as good as what the banded glacier posse found, but there is a helluva lot less walking. we only walked a relatively short ways on the return to easy pass. another high route alternative might be via cascade pass/park creek pass.
  9. big baller.
  10. when wi5 feels like 5.9, hooking is damn close to 100% of the placements. then again, i'm weak and lack the "right" tools. i wasn't differentiating between swinging and hooking when referring to sticks. i agree that taking advantage of any hookable features (holes, spaces between icicles, ledges, etc.) is a skill that will transport you to the land of milk and honey where all the routes are doable, even the hard ones.
  11. "My thought is now a days if you can climb a vertical 5.9 hand crack you can climb WI5 in decent conditions." sure, if by "decent" you mean picked-out plastic hero ice with bomber pro. i'm more of a wise-ass but your friend might be wise to also learn to place screws with either hand. if you're not on "decent" ice or aren't aiming for a beautiful weakness, over-reaching with your swings may result in wasted energy if you don't get a secure stick. matching (tools at same level vs. one hooked over the other or hand matching) is gonna happen sometimes but be careful not to place the tools too close together.
  12. rat

    cliff kicks it

    http://www.adn.com/2010/03/09/1176236/bush-pilot-hudson-inexorably-linked.html
  13. it was a poor choice of word ordering on my part. "fra" was meant to refer to the line wayne and i climbed, not the face itself. wayne and marko, thanks for the additional info on the cotter/rusch route.
  14. cool kick 'n stab.
  15. nice tr. i have often wondered about that approach from the east portal. skinning back up the west face then descending the drainage immediately west of the summer trail works well when avy hazard is reasonable...an up/down two-fer.
  16. Trip: pyramid peak - fra ne face--larson/wallace, III wi 5 (1 pt a0) Date: 2/21/2010 Trip Report: wayne and i climbed a worthy variation to a minor obsession of mine on the ne side of pyramid peak. wayne was instrumental in getting us off the ground and things fell into place, so to speak, after that. we belayed 8 pitches to the junction with the north ridge then stomped up to the summit from there. five pitches were full value, the other three were change. hard to rate but the water ice crux seemed like a short but steep wi5 and was tough enough that wayne had to take a bit of rope tension to put in a screw and de-pump. the other pitches probably clocked in at snice/ice 4/4+ with some feet on the rock but i decline to give it any m-wtf grade just to keep things simple. expect runouts. on the hopefully attached photo, the route is immediately right of the red line on the lower face and immediately left of it on the upper face. the photo was taken by retrosaurus (mm) on a previous spring attempt in the mid-2000's. we found conditions similar to what is shown on the photo. as you can see, a direct start is still in the offing. i wrote this up as the fra of the ne face but am curious where the cotter-rusch route actually lies. the beckey bible says north face but having started up a route over there one spring, i never saw an chimney with "incipient ice". is it possible we repeated or did a variation to their route? anyone have some insight? Gear Notes: nuts and cams to 3", kb's and la's, a handful of shorter screws and a specter. Approach Notes: thanks to the party who tramped in before us on saturday morning. you saved us a ton of effort.
  17. rat

    Snowpack

    that estimate is for flow past the dalles dam and includes mid/upper columbia and snake river basins. here is info that describes subbasin differences http://www.cbbulletin.com/375793.aspx from 2/5/10. the majority of spring runoff comes from below 7k elevation. snow depth may be less but the area is much greater. geek out here http://www.nwrfc.noaa.gov/snow/snow.cgi
  18. talk with mr. briody about climbing near the palisades and the colockum.
  19. "I know that Bold Bob pitch with hooks for pro on lib bell sounds kinda badass!" i don't recall any hooks on the bold bob pitch...maybe i wouldn't have fallen so far if there were. the hooks pitch was lower down as i recall.
  20. yeah, it's been climbed a bunch. i also have never heard a name for it (ditto for the various routes climbed on icicle butt). think one up for the masses. i don't recall seeing "pivotal moment" fully formed since the winter of '96-97.
  21. burn him , he's a brujo. technical skill must always trump your heresy.
  22. so, i'm confused....no suprise there. isn't the route you climbed left of "the visor" roof. "air roof", the rock climb, is far left of this. is "pivotal point" the same as "pivotal moment" discussed here http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/931196/TR_entiat_valley_and_leavenwor#Post931196 ? regardless, both routes are quite fun but whoever gave that route left of the visor a wi4 rating was high.
  23. thanks, i lost that link. it is the better of the two.
  24. if you don't already know, the 2nd edition (1997) of the s. arizona guide is here: http://www.climbaz.com/Backcountry/backcountry.html
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