rat

good catch. how was the ice looking in the alcove to the left?

a bit hard to say from that photo but the brush looks right! the climb is above the campsite we discussed along ingalls creek trail. there is another route between it and gray falls.

Trip: Ingall's Creek - Falls Creek Falls & No Rest for the Wicked Date: 12/12/2009 Trip Report: i went hoofing around ingall's creek over the weekend. after wacking up craig and mark's fine route, grey falls, i went looking for a sabbath day objective. enroute back down the trail i tromped over to falls creek falls and found the right side, as far away from the roar as possible, in wi4 shape. a couple hundred yards of exploration farther up the drainage didn't produce more ice so i hooked right into the forest and down a ridge to the base. this is a high-flow waterfall located in a localized terrain trap (lots of older avy debris). future parties will probably prefer to rap off a tree or v-thread(s). approx. 100' in length. located about 20 minutes from ingalls creek trail and easily combined with grey falls. bill gaines and i returned on sunday and hiked approximately 1 mile farther up the trail from grey falls to another nice 3 pitch route, "no rest for the wicked". look for it on the south facing slope near the west edge of a severely burned patch of conifers. pitch 1: >60m wi2/3 depending on your line. short slope to pitch 2: 60m wi4-/4 up cauliflowered pillars in the center (our line, probably wi4), or slightly easier to the left. short slope to pitch 3: 60m wi3. walk off to climbers' right.

with hh looking like that, the chimney/gully a couple hundred feet to the left is probably in good shape right now (fills with snow later).

worthleavin': the promised land of wi2-3. nice job rooting around.

i'm looking for a place (room for $500 or less or studio for $600 or less plus utilities) in the seattle area. i pay bills on time and am more civil than some would have you think. pm me if you know of anything. thanks. move this to "yard sale" or "spray" at will.

Trip: the roost - northeast face Date: 9/13/2009 Trip Report: hey swingers, lunger and i climbed it so you don't have to. don't be a wimpy, do 9 pitches plus some simul-climbing starting just right of the indistinct rib in mid-face and ending just left of it. go way out on 5 pitches of bushy galore and 4 of terrortainment. III, 5.9ish. "should clean up nicely with a little traffic." Gear Notes: nuts/cams to 3.5"

how can you stand to climb such clean and protectable rock? nice tick.

Trip: blockhouse west face - previously unreported from 2004 Date: 6/28/2009 Trip Report: dan cappellini, kevin newell and i climbed this in 2004. kevin posted a couple photos around that time but no route description. dan and i were back inadvertently weaseling away in the area yesterday and were thinking about that more successful outing. at the risk of engendering even more contempt from the angry midget, i'll throw this info into the blahg mire 'cause, well, it's a good route. route starts at the lowest corner of the west face a short ways up the gully between the blockhouse and monkey's head. 1. 5.10 obvious right facing corner 2. 5.10 large flare/ow to ledge 3. 5.9 left facing corner and face cracks 4. 5.9/10 finger and hand cracks 5. more 5.9ish climbing to the north ridge and around some towers to the summit blocks. pics of pitches 2 & 3 are here: http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=7203&what=allfields&name=bobbyperu&name=bobbyperu http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=7413&what=allfields&name=bobbyperu&name=bobbyperu approach via hook creek and over the ridge north of the blockhouse. rap cotman's east face route. pro to 5".

the nose, the left hand finish (c.s.l.) to the nose and, from what i've heard, the east face are probably the best lines. k.l.b. looks cool also. i haven't spoken with jens or dan regarding the new line they climbed earlier this year. otherwise, prepare to dirt weasel.

s&a is getting neglected.

hints have appeared in various threads (the aforementioned chimney, left side of duty dome, mixed variation left of silver tongue, many lines on careno, etc.) but really all you have to do is show up with more rock than ice gear and pick a line you wouldn't think of wasting your time on in the summer. same situation at snocrummie pass.

cappellini and i climbed it early season a couple winters ago and found a fixed pin. second pitch was m4-ish over the chockstone roof at that time. prone to filling up with snow during mid-winter but,yeah, a real fun route.

redux http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/865579/Searchpage/1/Main/65320/Words/recurve/Search/true/Re_Josephine_Crag#Post865579 http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/581706/Searchpage/1/Main/43535/Words/recurve/Search/true/Re_TR_Jupiter_Tower_ne_face_7_#Post581706

looks like the flow immediately south of the gully leading to recurve dihedral. if so, it doesn't have a name to my knowledge. downclimbed what you called the second pitch and scrambled off the first to skier's left....anyone's guess when the f.a. occurred. almost always forms for some part of the winter (never seen it buried) but, like you say, threatened by the basin above.

you're joking, right?

at least 3 routes have been climbed to the top of the butt in years past... 1. chicken gully 2. start up the handcrack/offwidth in the recess to the left of chicken gully and follow iced slabs finishing up a right facing dihedral at the top. 3. climb the handcrack left of the #2 start and follow iced features to finish up an ice column over the smallish roof left of the big bertha offwidth. i suspect the cocaine connection line that you mention has also been climbed. check the k&m guide or http://www.wastateice.net/Conditions.aspx for some other routes. good mixed routes can also be found on the careno crag, left side of duty dome, right side of peak-a-boo tower, the chimney a few hundred feet left of hubba hubba and anyplace else your creativity and thirst for filth might lead you. those of you interested in derworth this weekend will find thin ice....bring rock gear. rainbow is running. careno thin. millenium wall was fat but wet yesterday. inversion prevented a look at scw. the mountaineer creek routes looked lean but intriguing as of tuesday. the drip is running to the sea.

dusty's in and out is on the north facing wall of the coulee west of the dusty lake --- approached from the road along babcock bench, 80' of wi3 on the fra, walk off to the left (no need to rap as noted in k&m's book of wet dreams). doesn't look like not much on scw. perhaps the mini-pineapple express will change that. the drip is still in --- heard it was tr'd a couple times. drury and the pencil are fat.

dirty old bonzo. added a few photos from cappellini to the gallery.

worthleavin' public service announcement: like alpinemonkey said, as of 12/16 there wasn't much straightup ice climbing in the icicle. plenty to do if you don't mind mixing it up. start to hubba hubba was formed but snowcovered above that. drury and the pencil are coming along but drury still had some holes and was looking wet. the drip was not close to touching. chandelier was thick. hidden lake climbs were coming along but appeared to have some holes as of 12/15. approx. 4" of snow since this morning and still coming down. be prepared to dig if you're heading this way.

embarrassing.

Trip: buck mountain - firs: buckshot (an easy way up the north side) Date: 12/3-5/2008 Trip Report: first internet recorded spray (attempt at hype deflation): on 12/4, cappellini and i climbed the line marked in red on the accompanying photo (photo used with permission of john scurlock: http://www.pbase.com/nolock/mountains ). we found conditions thinner than shown on john's photo from 12/7/05. we pitched out the first 4 ropelengths (wi3, wi4, wi4+, wi3). 3 simul-climbing blocks followed (quite a few wi2/3 sections separated by snow slopes). late in the day we were at the head of the main gully below some overhangs (the uppermost point of the blue line in the photo). overcome with a recurrence of alpine chicken syndrome, we downclimbed a couple hundred feet and simul-zigged right up steep sugar snow and neve to a belay. a zag left for 2 pitches (a bit of m4/5?)in the dark led to the ridge. dan was unwilling to slog up to the summit so we descended the west slopes and back to the tent on the moraine. in retrospect, we should have finished up the a ramp system roughly marked by the green line (more sustained and aesthetic) and slogged to the summit. to my knowledge the only photos dan took were during the hike out. as wayne noted, there are other lines to be climbed here. a line of smears directly up the north face would be a fantastic addition. ice forms early and those willing to play roulette with the road condition will be rewarded. watch for cornices (very small this year compared to previous years that i have seen it) and wind deposition. buckshot: iv, wi4+ plus a little bit of m4/5(?) Gear Notes: screws, rack to 2.5" plus kb's/la's Approach Notes: call the usfs wenatchee river ranger station at 548-6977 to make sure all gates are open on the chiwawa river road. 4wd and/or chains highly recommended.

fixed raps on that? fatwhitefuck convenience. given the increased popularity, tat will show up regardless. clean it on the way up.

cool blog report. met eli in cochamo last february...quite a character. he and his friends looked like whipped dogs after reconning one of the many bamboo-infested approaches.

agree with paulb regarding boots being the likely source of the problem. that said, many skis have a line on the topsheet or side where the mid-point of your boot should be when mounted.