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Everything posted by plexus
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You guys were cruising. I'm impressed by your 4-hour time. You definitely have your lead switches and route finding dialed in. Though it sounds like everything magically unfolded the way you could have hoped in getting to the megadihedral. The mountain looks like great granite. I guess the haul in is the price you have to pay to get to some incredible rock in the Cascades. Did you do a combo of downclimbing/shortroping and rappelling down the ridge or just downclimbing?
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A lot less snow than the time I ran up that with Scott and Dallas. How active was that face shedding snow when you guys were climbing up the gully?
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Friggin gorgeous pics! I need to stay away from this site this time of year because it makes me really miss the Cascades. Been dying to get some alpine action but the wx is going to be crap the next two days. Mtn biking on the western slope it is then.
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[TR] Mt. Shuksan - Danger on the North Face 5/3/2009
plexus replied to danhelmstadter's topic in North Cascades
Glad you were a spectator and not a participant in that slab releasing. How far away were you from the shear point? Was it at point of contact or was it a remote trigger? -
I don't know what there is to complain about. No, there are no glaciers here. But I've gotten more climbing in during the past four months than I would during a summer in the Cascades. There is some really good alpine out here too, you just need to know where to look and stay off the 14ers.
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[TR] Washington Monument - Grandy Creek 3/6/2009
plexus replied to klenke's topic in the *freshiezone*
I've had some fun days knocking off some of those minor summits in that area in the winter like Anderson Butte, Sauk Mtn, Loomis Mtn, Dock Butte, etc. They might be runts, but you definitely get your work in. C'mon Paul! Four miles of snowplow on icy death crust is so, so, so much fun. Hope you got a massage for your quads after the fact. -
For what it's worth, I plan on spending most of next year following the spine of the Andes from Chile up to Central America. From talking to some people who have spent extended time there, I'm just going to take my Clip Flashlight; roomie for a single person and I've never had a problem this last year from downpours to extremely windy conditions. If you get it staked out properly, I've found it can take over 60 mph gusts without even budging.
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That actually looked really fun. Glad you two had a great day out.
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I second this. I was in the same boat as you Dan in lots of years of skiing but not a lot of skiing per season to get good at it. Also if you don't want to shell the $$ for lessons, go skiing with some really good skiers. Seriously. The biggest jump I made skiing was two seasons ago doing a full day at Copper Mtn with some friends who are phenominal skiers. Keeping up with them and also the tips they handed out made me progress light years.
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Definitely too clipped. Let's jettison the dreamy photo of Colin and get more meat. But the biggest surprise was I had an issue of Outside waiting for me in my mailbox. I never signed up for a subscription to Outside!
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Hopefully we're making up for a slightly belated start here in Colorado. People forget, we don't really start getting good stuff until late January - February usually.
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I love it when you talk technical. Seriously though, if you're talking about just plain resort skiing, my R2 Patagucci zip is plenty even when it drops into the single digits here in Colorado. The only time I could ever think about using a heavy fleece is overnight camping or belaying in some pretty frigid conditions. But truth is I don't find my nice $400 softshell any warmer than my 10-year-old NF shell, it's just more streamline and less bulky.
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[TR] Hidden Lakes Saddle Porn - standard 11/30/2008
plexus replied to tazz's topic in North Cascades
Wait a minute! A blue sky day in the North Cascades in late November?! Why the hell couldn't I get a few of those when I lived there?! Nice pics. Looks like just enough snow to make it interesting but not enough to make it relaxing. -
Glad you're still with us to be making this post. Two days ago, almost peeled twice during a "scramble route". Wound up taking the hardest line each time I came to some technical climbing. The first time I was about 20 feet up and my one foot, in approach shoes, blew and I could feel gravity trying to peel me off of the slightly overhanging section while on bad hands. The next cliff section, had a foot hold crumble and nearly came off. It hasn't spooked me yet. But I remember years back a friend pulling gear and taking a screaming fall and stopping head down only a few feet off the deck after taking easily a 60-foot drop. That spooked me for a few months. Sometimes different things trigger that fear or prudence. Next spring you might charge right back into it. Or climbing might lose its luster to you. Either way, you have to accept whichever road you go down.
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[TR] Mount Buckner - Southwest Route loop 10/27/20
plexus replied to timmy_t's topic in North Cascades
Great lighting and I love the colors. Thanks for the enjoying read. -
Oh Gawd! I had a flashback to a drunken night I'd wish I hadn't remembered. Sehome rocks if completely drunk and/or stoned. Otherwise, well, there at least is Boundary Bay!
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I bought a pair of Acopa slippers when I was living in Oaxaca in '02. Still have them, they still have the same soles -though they are in need of a resole, and have held up better than my Mad Rock slippers. I use them as my non-summer slipper, meaning in summertime my feet swell up too big to get the damn meat pies in there without cramping badly. I would recommend them if you find some that fit well.
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Hey guys, Heading out to Joe's Valley next week for a few days. Just trying to collect a checklist of problems I "must try". I've got the topo downloaded and pretty much boulder up to V5 (on a good day). Any recommendations to those who have been humbled there? Any campsite better than others?
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Damn you and your "Where's Waldo?" game!! I finally spotted the damn bear. =)
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Always bring moleskin. Touching what eldiente wrote, I find I always bring my Mountain Hardware shell and my Cloudveil rain pants when in the alpine. The wind-breaking power of the two saves me from bringing heavier and bulkier layers when needed for unplanned nights and/or when weather changes. After almost getting fried by lightning a couple weeks ago, I highly suggest always keep checking the sky. And while you feel like a pussy turning back because the skies are ominous, I don't think I'd have an issue the next time that happens. Be optimistic and be a good partner. Nobody wants to be with a nay-sayer or a complainer for a very long day.
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...and then there are the times that Ivan makes you say, "Right on!"
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Funny how plans change. Still recovering from DNC coverage here. Saturday, chores, trail ran with climbing slippers in hand, run for a mile, climb something, run again, climb something. Good day. Sat night: partying. Sunday felt lethargic and scraped my backpacking plans. Thirty mile bike ride instead. Sunday night: drinks with the guys. Monday: Got up early and saw too much cloud cover to make me feel comfy doing a technical ridge route - especially after nearly getting zapped by lightning last weekend. So coffee and mtn bike ride. BBQ later this evening.
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Thanks for the memories. Kindy Ridge was one of my favorite nights camping.