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plexus

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Everything posted by plexus

  1. Phil, Friend did that route up Fisher this year. They got to the False summit and turned around when they noticed the decent gully had absolutely no snow in it. So go on good, or at least average, snow years or you have a LONG downclimb ahead of you. My vote is for some cool scrambling and climbing on the southern range of the Twin Sisters. Go up to Hamilton, pay $20 for your gate key from Crown Pacific (they even give you maps of their existing roads if you ask nicely) and pick a mountain. Anything from snow romps in early season to some class 4 to mid-5 (Skookum, Barbara and Nancy). My fav has been Nancy. After getting the summit from a south traverse, rapped down and climbed up the headwall. Cool rock unlike anything in the Cascades--according to a geologist at WWU, it is the largest piece of exposed mantle in the world.
  2. Since rain has cancelled my plans for cragging at Mount Erie, guess I'll read about climbing instead of doing it. I remember the posts back in Sept. talking about hangers missing from Icicle. Was there any resolution as to what happened and who the culprit was? Last I remember was fingers pointing at the Reserve. On Sunday, went out there and there are hangers missing on three of the anchors on Clamshell Cave. The bolts are fine, just cinch up a couple of nuts (God that sounds bad). Just curious.
  3. Maybe he was turned off because there was no snow there when there should have been. Nonetheless, it was one of the best epic stories I've ever heard as far as combining close calls and funny anidotes. they downclimbed the ridge, came to a spot where they thought they could rap into a part of the gully that had snow, couldn't, had boulder whiz by his head while on a rap and setting up an anchor Near the last pitch down, had to cut the rope stuck on a rap then discovered they were wrong and had three more raps, got out after dark with one headlamp for two ppl, couldn't find tent, then rolled down the hill during the night cause he tied his legs together in a plastic bag to keep the draft out.
  4. Tomyhoi is pretty nice with Canada and its pastures and a town that appears just a few valleys away (Dru what town is that you see from there to the NW from there?). Also you have Larrabee, with its rust coloring, and the Pleiades and the border peaks (nothing looks cooler than these guys with a mantle of snow when you're driving to the ski area) right there. Also you get a far-away view of the Pickets, and some of the remote ones like Reboubt. Also love looking into Nooksack Cirque by Shuksan and Icy. Heard Baker is nice in clear skies, you can see the San Juans from there.
  5. Freak, Nick is that you. How's Feney? Ryan
  6. Matt Anderson has gots the right advice. The people I have taught how to lead trad and how I learned is from a more experienced climber, start cleaning the gear. Then have them place pieces while on TR. Then I go up check the pieces and critique. Do that a few times and you get used to it. Also learn the nuiances of trad, like when to use a hex or a cam or a tri-cam. Also you get used to holding a stance while finding the right fit. Also don't make the beginner mistake of just jamming in a cam and assuming it's good. Check the placement!!! Have fun and find a good mentor.
  7. The other weekend while backpacking with my girlfriend by Gobbler's Knob near Mt Rainier, we struck an interesting topic. Told her about when a friend climbed McKinley, he was stuck in the tent for just three days (which was pretty good for the bad weather it had that year). Of course that led to the discussion about relieving yourself while tentbound by whiteout conditions, high winds, blizzard, etc. For a guy it's not that difficult. But what do girls do? Bring a funnel? Have great aim? Wide-mouth nalgene? I couldn't answer the question. Not really an important topic, but just one of those random thoughts that I'm sure Caveman and Dru will lend their delectable style of humor to.
  8. Phil, Kinda like Vesper East Slope? The mountain itself is fun but the trail to the white rock is kinda crappy. Were the views worth it on Crater? Are there remains of the orginal lookout?
  9. Hiking up to Crater Mountain (east of Ross Lake) on Monday. Figuring will in the area to get a summit. Beckey bible not too helpful with route description. Class 2, 3, 4? Loose or solid rock? Glacier travel? Picture shows glacier near the route. Any info would be helpful so I know what to pack. Thanks
  10. Saturday: Climbed and gardened a "forgotten wall" on Mount Erie. Lost many a battle to rose bushes growing in the cracks and on overgrown trail. Right arm looks like I picked a fight with a cougar. Led Skyline Rib, came across a nice pile of poop 25 feet up it on a ledge. Sunday: Pacific Science Center, watched Shackleton's Antarctic IMAX movie. Those guys were tougher than frozen seal blubber. Dkemp, how was the slope on Ruth? Heading up there tomorrow. Went out to do it last Thursday but it was so dreary (and cold) we headed back after heading up the "Climber's trench on ruth Arm)
  11. Went up the walk-up way a couple of weeks ago. From our view it looked like it was getting wavy. The snow we encountered was atrocious. Crumbly and pokey, the gully up to Headlee Pass was not fun, broke through a couple of times. hope that helps
  12. Don't expect to drive very far. The snow is still on the road pretty close to the highway. Mainly slushy snow until you get over 5,000 feet. There has been a few inches of new snow/rain this week.
  13. According to various friends, the gate has been locked the last three weekends over the Middle Fork Bridge. Bring your bike or have some good humming music in your head as you make the drab approach.
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