wayne

Can we have more than 5? 1. Solo of new York Gully 2.West ridge of Hunter direct start to 12k 3.DNB Bear mt. 4.DEB Early Wint Spire free 5.Juno-Clean Break 5 1/2.Goode EB 5 3/4.Inspiration ER and WR Macmillan

This is the most reliable,and easy to use place I have been to outside of Banff. I Rock web page [ 11-19-2002, 09:25 PM: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

-Illumination Rock 9,643' As the 6th highest Volcanic summit in Oregon, the "I-Rock" also represents the most difficult and committing summit in the state. It is also the scene of some of the most technically demanding alpine routes in the Northwest. With mixed rock and ice routes up to 6 pitches long, it is the perfect 1 day playground for the aspiring alpinist. In addition to its easy access and minimal avalanche danger, it enjoys a 6-7 month long mixed rock and ice season. The actual summit is a teetering boulder that few may wish to stand upon. The Monolith itself is a eroded fin of andesite with some loose rock until the ice welds it together. Anyone who ventures should be prepared for the usuals: rock and ice fall, complicated descents and route finding intricacies. The best routes seem to start at the downhill” Toe" of the rock itself and end on the west summit/ West Gable. A dozen new routes have been climbed in the range of M3-M6 ranges, and each are amazing climbs that reliably come "in”.” Pineapple Express “ storms seem to help. There are 2 start gullies that are found on the toe and after 2 pitches will lead one to a steep headwall. The head wall can be climbed directly, or passed to the right for easier climbing. Pure water ice routes form on the east face proper and can vary from WI3-4+ depending on how fat they form. It took a few explorations to become comfortable with this place so get to know it first. I have found the best conditions to occur in Nov-Dec. and Mar-April. It should be cold if you climb on the sunny (east side) but the shady side can be more difficult in general as well as safer in warmer temps.

Hey Jon! Don Serl should NOT be a "Wanker"

Jens now you know one of the reasons I moved up here. It is a different more laid-back scene. People seem happy with their monthly Smith trip. People down there are very cool and friendly and some of my favorite people in the world thrive there

What were some other great things Peter Croft did here didnt he do something to the Stuart range . Anyone know if he did anything in the Pickets?

Tough Choice ! I would love it if someone could tape the Kearny one as I am seeing Charlie. Off we go now.....

YeHaww! I cant wait to see it!

Any of the winter mixed stuff on Illumination Rock is certainly memorable stuff to do. For the serious mountaineer only. I am glad to announce that there are now 2 sources to see the topo of the S.E. face. The Pro Mountain Sports now has copies of the Topos . It shows 10 or so of the mixed winter lines currently ? In ? I have my best scouts there soon but Pineapple Express storms seem to help!! I hope to be on it thanks giving day weekendto check it out. I think it could be great RIGHT NOW!!!!!!!!!! [ 11-14-2002, 05:17 PM: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

Hunt and Tillman : The Planet-Ass-Kickers

_____________________________________________________________Originaly posted by rbw1966: Also a good trip: circumnavigation of Mt. Hood during the winter. This is another on my list.[/QB] __________________________________________________ This is so true . The trip is amazing!! [ 11-13-2002, 08:29 PM: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

I second New York Gully. It is way cool and I cant wait to do it again, Hopefully with more Ice on it.

Als sounds good to me too.any one 3rd the vote?

I bivvied halfway up NE butt of Jberg to find 2 feet of snow when I crawled from the cave.It took the rest of my life to get down. I was hit fully by 2 large avalanches during the incredible and desparate downclimb. My hands are sweaty just writing this

Its hard to see the gods fight :to the paternal one CHILL out on the girl I am assuming you were once still new to the sport before you became such a complete You could have said it a lot nicer.Lets be carefull not to suppress this enthusiasm

I am psyching up for Pilchuck myself. It seems the one who wish to stay dry are heading for Smith, though it could easily shower there too. You all have a safe drive and outing !

How would you even get down from those things? Lower over the other side/

Thanks for the replace guys .Sef and I were out there too on saturday, wasnt the weather great? I want to thank everybody who takes the time and effort to replace old bolts. Here's to you

Has anyone ever climbed those free standing tall pinnacles near the library.? I think there are 3 of them and they must be 100 feet tall!!

Ok tell me why this Tom Stoppard should be of interest?

Speaking of mystery route , Has anyone repeated the Mystery route Tim Olson had in his first printing?

Who is the guy in this pict that you are ovbiously obsessed with??

I prefer the purest of all disciplines; Alpine, mixed, and extremely difficult

quote: Originally posted by thelawgoddess: anything special going on at pub club tonight? just trying to decide if i want to come ...

Had a great weekend in 11worth with "Super" AlpineK and Ehmic. Pulling down many a good friction hold in the chilly fall air. Watching old man winter coming down the trail!!