wayne

Nelly I remmember and loved your show! Formidable "complete,complete is approacherd by the Middle fork of course,but you cross the entry creek early and climb the forested lower ridge. Long grunt for sure,and be careful going down,as it is easy to get cliffed if you dont stay on the ridge.eventually youcome to a sub peak that you cross on the west and you can get a great bivvy on the col. The ridge starts steep and is 5.6 at least if you stay on the ridge. It is easier on the left.Several more steps and youll get to the original rt.It was interesting to not see any slings or fixed gear the whole way and what an adventure free solo!

Caught up with him the other day ,Hes been doin stuff........ Soloed Alpamayo..... Did another rt there Did goode in a day..... Did Clean break... Inspiration E. Ridge... Fury N. Buttress... Probably more,but he was busy with a customer..

You guys dont need to apologize for squat , we still can use this, the greatest, site I have ever used! Get to it when the season is over ,thats when we really need it.

Just led every pitch on DNB of Bear Mt. Good job on Formidable! tell Fred as he is updating his book. [ 08-13-2002, 08:24 PM: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

Been following you guys,and I say you put in a good effort! I know K2 doesnt come easy, but you come back safe and give it another shot.

OK Lets see some of you lurkers show up this time

I had a great experience . I posted some cams for sale got a few bites , then I forgot about them . and months later somebody pm'ed me and they sold! I have since updated all of my cams and I can still climb! Anybody want a Kill Serratus Ice Pack?

I free soloed the "complete" N. ridge in 24 hrs. It is more direct and you dont have to deal with glaciers, It is a bit if a sandbag overall, At 5.0, I woulndnt take it lightly, THe rock is loose and not much for pro.

The 2 times I went part way up in bad weather , there were way too many people going up anyways!!! Its not the heat its the Stupidity!!

I dont know how this ended up in the Gear critic section, is anyone able to move it?

More than any other year I can remmember (30+ years), I cant think of a more accident-prone year than this , and it is honly half over! Mine started with witnessing a horrible accident in the East,then the volcano stories . Then the loss of a dear friend in the Himal... Then another in Bolivia. Then the one that recently ocurred. There have been many more with people I dont know. I have had my own bumps on the road but I hope we can all learn from this and be VERY safe out there , please

I have to spray here for Colins and Barts sake. After leaving the trailhead at the stop at the end of the Stehekin road,The 2 of them did Goode in a day !! Has anyone heard of that happenning before?

Sorry for all of you guys......... Lets all take a deep breath and be glad we are alive and keep or thoughts with this guy

2 days ago I lead free every pitch. I have to tell you it is an incredible route! Every pitch was fantastic beyond my expectaions. I wish I would have hauled my pack up it though.The 5 books that it is in are very accurate , though they mix up the crux grades at times .The first crux is sustained for 1 long section around prow,(friction) good rest before and after . Really tough on the calves too.the second crux is shorter but steeper and it dont let up much in the 5.9 sections later.

GOOD JOB STEVE !!!! Managed to free E.Butt Direct on S.Early Winter. What an outstanding climb it is!

I saw emergency Vehicles at Cutthroat Parking lot Saturday, What happened? Any one know?

Lets go back to that Formidible route. It is not in the book, is it a new route? . Give it up, what is the grade etc?. I did the complete N. Ridge solo and I was not impressed with the rock.

Yea! Cathedral is a great mountain to climb! The S.E Butress is a classic for sure. It is much like the high Sierra, with a long-ass approach. We went in through Canada and got lost for a day and a half till I climbed a tree and saw a hill that we could see the peak from 10 miles away . Beware the Becky beta it is out of date . Dont drive to the end of the ashnola river road . Head up the trail before that. lots of off trail . What a route though the O.W. is hard and great position too ,have fun.

Hey Steb ,David Parker is headed there Aug 18. We should get together and I can supply beta over beers [ 07-25-2002, 08:04 PM: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

Cavemaster, Depot will get you to Redoubt/ Spickard. It is pretty remote and I wouln't expect any issues, except one time I was going after Bear and the road was closed at the lake due to fire danger , I was so pissed, I did Selesse instead

Juno Tower Clean Break. Good job Lawgoddess! Sent triage this time?

The coolest climbing organization by far that I have run across is the Ptarmigans of Vancouver WA

What is the address please?

My first attempt was with Dennis Harmon in Winter. Hadnt been in there before and it was bigger than I thought . Second attempt solo avalanched on 3 times on the buttress half way . Somehow downclimbed in bad blizzard. 3rd attempt rain. 4th was $ up the cj couloir in the fog

I have used the Soloist with good success. It has its weeknesses with traversing and rope drag and you have to constantly watch your sitch( you cant fall upside down). There is web info that a friend of mine downloaded on it. Of course it takes practice and work but it has saved many weekends and provided a great sense of accomplishment where none would be. When I get the $ ,I would like to get the Silent Partner device. It is supposed to be better. web page