wayne

2 days ago I lead free every pitch. I have to tell you it is an incredible route! Every pitch was fantastic beyond my expectaions. I wish I would have hauled my pack up it though.The 5 books that it is in are very accurate , though they mix up the crux grades at times .The first crux is sustained for 1 long section around prow,(friction) good rest before and after . Really tough on the calves too.the second crux is shorter but steeper and it dont let up much in the 5.9 sections later.

GOOD JOB STEVE !!!! Managed to free E.Butt Direct on S.Early Winter. What an outstanding climb it is!

I saw emergency Vehicles at Cutthroat Parking lot Saturday, What happened? Any one know?

Lets go back to that Formidible route. It is not in the book, is it a new route? . Give it up, what is the grade etc?. I did the complete N. Ridge solo and I was not impressed with the rock.

Yea! Cathedral is a great mountain to climb! The S.E Butress is a classic for sure. It is much like the high Sierra, with a long-ass approach. We went in through Canada and got lost for a day and a half till I climbed a tree and saw a hill that we could see the peak from 10 miles away . Beware the Becky beta it is out of date . Dont drive to the end of the ashnola river road . Head up the trail before that. lots of off trail . What a route though the O.W. is hard and great position too ,have fun.

Hey Steb ,David Parker is headed there Aug 18. We should get together and I can supply beta over beers [ 07-25-2002, 08:04 PM: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

Cavemaster, Depot will get you to Redoubt/ Spickard. It is pretty remote and I wouln't expect any issues, except one time I was going after Bear and the road was closed at the lake due to fire danger , I was so pissed, I did Selesse instead

Juno Tower Clean Break. Good job Lawgoddess! Sent triage this time?

The coolest climbing organization by far that I have run across is the Ptarmigans of Vancouver WA

What is the address please?

My first attempt was with Dennis Harmon in Winter. Hadnt been in there before and it was bigger than I thought . Second attempt solo avalanched on 3 times on the buttress half way . Somehow downclimbed in bad blizzard. 3rd attempt rain. 4th was $ up the cj couloir in the fog

I have used the Soloist with good success. It has its weeknesses with traversing and rope drag and you have to constantly watch your sitch( you cant fall upside down). There is web info that a friend of mine downloaded on it. Of course it takes practice and work but it has saved many weekends and provided a great sense of accomplishment where none would be. When I get the $ ,I would like to get the Silent Partner device. It is supposed to be better. web page

The only difference between top roping and free soloing is the mental knowledge that you are ok if you are not able to do the moves. So carry the same mental framework of free soloing wherever you are. Heck your belayer could be taken out. Really what it comes down to is you only and the climb. I am not trying to psyche you out . Lets look at the situation. Say you are so good at 5.8 you should be able to do 5.9, right? You should be able to lead any 5.7? You are physically then able to free any thing 5.9 and below except you know you have a saftey zone.Get as much experience within your comfortable saftey zone, but, pretend in your mind that you are free solo and maybe putting in pro. This will give you the framework for when you are in harms way and mentally you will be ready for it . Being calm is the first disciple to master, confidence comes with success and is the second. If you are ambitious, tr 5.10s and this will make 5.9s easier too. Climbing is so mental

Great Idea ,You can start by hugging mine!

My trundleing career ended at Eagle Rock in Tahoe. Sent a monster loose then watched 3 people come around the corner below. Felt about 2 inches tall after that.This was not a popular place at all! David Parker accidently sent a boulder of the top of Goode last mont, It cleared off the whole face as it picked up incredible amounts of stuff on the way down. It was tremendous.

I was worried mostly because I havent run into you in a week or so! Friggin bizzarre how many times we have crossed paths!!The clean break pitch will kick you too far left if you let it and you will go up some munge pitches till you gain it back at the 6th pitch.you didnt get on it?I would definatly repeat it in a day with you.It is such a kill route.you saw us mired in the munge for sure

Enjoy the approach , It is one of the finest in the range!

I was wondering if we may have hit the party below us with rockfall and were we off route pitch 3-6.I think we were . We went left instead of doing the rest of the clean break.Ugly stuff over there. What did you think of the route? Mosquitoes? Sorry we dropped a rock!

It was just a remark, yes, but I found it exeptionally difficult and insecure.If you really want to go out with a bang , raft the Skykomish like we did yesterday and dont look at the book for beta! Lucky to be alive, Wayne

The quickest way before the trail slides was over west ridge col. It looks bad but with a few rappels goes straight to the route which is fantastic! the snow should be firm if its there at all. rapp the shrund on rappellers left.

Bring a large sack of gumption, that chimney is so slippery and you will fight for every inch you gain, it may kill you. Other than that its no problem.

Can someone tell me why the meat is so heinous?

Ok see you at the Heinous Meat market . Stebbi you going? Bring my rack please.

Yes, I did have the advantage, but I may have missplaced it. The Towers ROOOOOOOCK!!

One thing not contributing is Volcanoes. We seem to be lacking the explosions that used to occur that cut the suns rays down. Or meteor fallout,or nuclear winters that the bus admin are dreaming of