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wayne

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Everything posted by wayne

  1. I believe the n. Face hasnt bben done in winter?
  2. I agree and disagree with the "One good mt." There is so much more to Oregon than you can find . Have you ever seen the North Cirque of Mt Theilsen?,Few have,... it is spectacular as any place I have been! The Turkey Monster? (CHOOOSSS, though cool ) . Mt Washington? The Wallowas? The Rabbit Ears? I think Oregon is better than 45 of the other states!
  3. wayne

    X-MEN

    Hey Mike, Good luck in Veges. Nice to make your aq. If you are ever back in Sea town lets hang,Wayne
  4. SUV Lane
  5. Tyrolean Time!!!!!!
  6. I am sure it is a dream trip. I am also sure it is a long and arduous Mounaineering trip and there should be very experienced climbers an Navigational experts as you should expect thick clouds along the way.I have been after it for some time. Te Becky green has a good read on it. Go girl!
  7. Wasnt the first ascent of Watusi Rodeo Made by 2 routes ?
  8. A remake of Willard, Is David one of the rats? . I knew him before he was famous
  9. Sunday Or Monday? It doesnt matter to me ,eithier I missed it or I will be at his show during a Monday airing
  10. It could Happen!
  11. I got it wrong , it has seen 5 ascents via 4 different routes . I loaded the routes(see attachment) and drew in the lines from left to right : Elder-Russel IV-5.7? Arachnophobia IV+-5.9+-AI4 Davis Ramp II-5.6-AI3 Black WidowIII-AI5+-A2 I have copies of the topo in Climaxe and PMS stores. It is due out in The new Oregon High whenever that comes out.
  12. Good list man, I am usually burned out halfway though an effort like that! No shit!! ; Cracked and dropped 4"!!!!
  13. You gonna find bottomless pow conditions
  14. It depends on what part of the face collapsed. There will still be Ice.............somewhere on it!
  15. Tree wells are BAD! When I first moved to Government Camp('81) I got stuck for an hour standing upright!40 feet from home,I thought I was dead. Cant sympathize enough with the family and friends over this .......
  16. In the bathroom of feathered friends is the best Slipstream photo ever
  17. I had to take extra for solo belaying. I took aprox 4 cams 4 stoppers and 4 pins , 2 screws(no need) and a single 50 m. 9mil. Tiblocs trashed it early. Guys , Nice work on the Snowq . I cant wait to repeat it when it has more ice!
  18. Actually the Black Spider has an easy 5.6-AI3. Very classic Goes up the Right coulior and goes left up a hidden ramp . At the end of this , up a 5.6 hand crack. Ted Davis probably did the FA of this in the early 70s. Solo. It was the first ascent of the Black Spider. It has seen a repeat. Must have low avvy. Must get early start. The Spider has seen 5 ascents, via 6 different routes. It has the hardest ice in Oregon, WI5+-A2. It catches scary sun first thing
  19. wayne

    Tim Olson

    Where was it published?
  20. jaee peged it. Or move to Washington? Worked for me.
  21. Nice job. Probably was "new" . I have definatly looked at those and drooled at the potenial. There can be so much ice on Hood at times. You really have to just go and see.
  22. wayne

    Tim Olson

    If Tim is wacko, I will take wacko. I wouldnt even be alive if Tim Hadnt jumped and grabbed my lead rope as I was was falling by, looking at an unbelayed 400+' fall. he stopped me after bouncing at 60' and going anther 20 before his hands gripped the rope with his bare hands. THis was amazing. I only broke a wrist. A broken bolt and his hands saved my
  23. wayne

    Tim Olson

    Actually i didnt do the fa, But I did the fa of the first pitch and did the ffa. Tim worked on the project with many other guys and fixed 60 pieces on it for my ascent.
  24. Yes , I have had my Golden Gander at this Masterpiece!!! I will sit in silent awe for a long time. Then hopefully [Go Climbing]
  25. As a friend and patna of his, and as a climber......We all owe him thanks over reprinting his classic Portland Rock Climbs! He really didnt want to redo it. He left out stuff, and added some. Does anyone know where the Mystery Route is , in his first edition? I would love to hear some polite reveiws of his work. Heres to you Tim.....
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