wayne

hey TimL was just talking aboot slabs when we saw you In Cananda. My epeltives are that slabs require too much nerve,trust,and patience to be popular with peops that want everything now!

Believe it or not crevasses have recently shown up on the zz glacier ,but they were very obvious and quite old ice exposed by recession. I agree with the last , Nope, post though

Ballar sounds good [ 04-15-2002, 06:44 PM: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

I dony usually throw down a challenge on a repeat, but I wonder if anyone else has done a left to right bouldering traverse of Bat Wall at Broughtons? I dont think they have but if you try bring your crash pad(of course I didnt) and a big lunch. See if you can beat my time on it : Just over 6 years to send it.Left to right Red Wall has been lapped by many ,it offers a good warm up

Hey Will, I was to be going there myself but the weather sucked. Hey I left a topo of I-rock and Black Spider at Climaxe for you to check out.It should end the mystery surrounding the best mixed climbing in the PNW. 6-8 month season on the thing and offers great craging in the summer when everything else is too hot.Early start if you are climbing in the sun. Extended season on the Reid side.w

Spec, That sucks out loud, All our thoughts to friends and family.Realy brings these games into a new perspective

Hello Oregon Friends. I have had to move away from the Beaver state, but am curious what the latest sitch on Madrone Wall.Never give up!!

This is the beta to the "Imperfect Impasse". It is my opinion that the best way to perfect pass IS over the top of Whatcom peak though: After the peak(6534') that is after Easy peak ,there is a descent to 5400". It is best to generally stay high as you can without traversing cliffs. You will eventually do some steeper talus/downclimbing untill you get to a fault/gully filled with snow. It has cliffs on both sides. Descend to a tree on flat ledge. It offers the only access into the "Imperfect Impasse". It has a ledge that seems bad but goes, many rope up .Last person is solo though. the other side is doable but looks tough. It is the only way through.Reversing it is possible by rappel. Dont let it psyche you out ,it is just adventure along the way.w

[ 04-02-2002: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

With AI3, the pro will kill you before you can place it

5 days usually.The "trail" down challenger arm is something of an enigma.I dont think Chilliwack river trail is a problem,but it would be out of the way after challenger,and much longer than Hannegan approach.I have some e-files on the traverse I could send you . all I need is your email address [ 04-01-2002: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

Hey Alan . Good choice ,Easy pass? Perfect pass is the way to Challenger, but ,I think the best way is over whatcom peak. Easy day to the river crossing before the hill. Harder day to perfect pass with some route finding around "imperfect Impasse". Consider a traverse out to Ross lake!

If you took all the people from this site and laid them end to end,Stretched out across a field, that would be a great place to leave them!

Go check out Illumination rock

What Wayne and Colin did: We got 1 pitch up attempting TC direct. Very difficult on the easy looking stuff bailed off a bollard . If the thing touched down it would be sweet WI5-6!M8 if not. We ended up free soloeing North Face Direct 2200' AI3 sustained and a 5.7 Mixed moss and rock finish into TC. 2 1/2 hours up

Hey Ray how where the winds up high? I remmember walking downhill and parallel to the slope.weird

Thank you for sharing -your neighbors

Dang Colin ,I cant even make it home and you have already got the post up. Nice workin with you today. It isnt everyday you can free solo 2200 feet of kill ice.

Like I said before go to Illumination Rock. I am going to scan a copy of the topos soon I hope!

[ 03-22-2002: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

There is now a trip report on NY Gully on the front page trs

[ 03-22-2002: Message edited by: wayne1112 ] [ 03-22-2002: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

FREE THE SOLOIST'S!!!!!!!!!!My new cause

Do people solo anymore or is it considered idiotic these days? Here are the ones I know of... Charles Bell on Willis Wall(if he actually did it). Peter Croft on Traverseing the Southern Pickets.(Was he Solo? , Which of the peaks did he do?)

Did it in 94. 4 1/2 days .2 days in ,went high route,left of access ck .no bushwack but lots of elev gain and loss. 1 long ass day up and back to Luna col. Wathch how you start rt. we went up the right side of ridge to start though book says left,looked burly. Both have rockfall. Took the cramps off, on 7 times. Bring 1 wide piece 11 hex. Mind your p+qs on descent.Back at the boat by 9;00am day 5.