wayne

Spec, That sucks out loud, All our thoughts to friends and family.Realy brings these games into a new perspective

Hello Oregon Friends. I have had to move away from the Beaver state, but am curious what the latest sitch on Madrone Wall.Never give up!!

This is the beta to the "Imperfect Impasse". It is my opinion that the best way to perfect pass IS over the top of Whatcom peak though: After the peak(6534') that is after Easy peak ,there is a descent to 5400". It is best to generally stay high as you can without traversing cliffs. You will eventually do some steeper talus/downclimbing untill you get to a fault/gully filled with snow. It has cliffs on both sides. Descend to a tree on flat ledge. It offers the only access into the "Imperfect Impasse". It has a ledge that seems bad but goes, many rope up .Last person is solo though. the other side is doable but looks tough. It is the only way through.Reversing it is possible by rappel. Dont let it psyche you out ,it is just adventure along the way.w

[ 04-02-2002: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

With AI3, the pro will kill you before you can place it

5 days usually.The "trail" down challenger arm is something of an enigma.I dont think Chilliwack river trail is a problem,but it would be out of the way after challenger,and much longer than Hannegan approach.I have some e-files on the traverse I could send you . all I need is your email address [ 04-01-2002: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

Hey Alan . Good choice ,Easy pass? Perfect pass is the way to Challenger, but ,I think the best way is over whatcom peak. Easy day to the river crossing before the hill. Harder day to perfect pass with some route finding around "imperfect Impasse". Consider a traverse out to Ross lake!

If you took all the people from this site and laid them end to end,Stretched out across a field, that would be a great place to leave them!

Go check out Illumination rock

What Wayne and Colin did: We got 1 pitch up attempting TC direct. Very difficult on the easy looking stuff bailed off a bollard . If the thing touched down it would be sweet WI5-6!M8 if not. We ended up free soloeing North Face Direct 2200' AI3 sustained and a 5.7 Mixed moss and rock finish into TC. 2 1/2 hours up

Hey Ray how where the winds up high? I remmember walking downhill and parallel to the slope.weird

Thank you for sharing -your neighbors

Dang Colin ,I cant even make it home and you have already got the post up. Nice workin with you today. It isnt everyday you can free solo 2200 feet of kill ice.

Like I said before go to Illumination Rock. I am going to scan a copy of the topos soon I hope!

[ 03-22-2002: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

There is now a trip report on NY Gully on the front page trs

[ 03-22-2002: Message edited by: wayne1112 ] [ 03-22-2002: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

FREE THE SOLOIST'S!!!!!!!!!!My new cause

Do people solo anymore or is it considered idiotic these days? Here are the ones I know of... Charles Bell on Willis Wall(if he actually did it). Peter Croft on Traverseing the Southern Pickets.(Was he Solo? , Which of the peaks did he do?)

Did it in 94. 4 1/2 days .2 days in ,went high route,left of access ck .no bushwack but lots of elev gain and loss. 1 long ass day up and back to Luna col. Wathch how you start rt. we went up the right side of ridge to start though book says left,looked burly. Both have rockfall. Took the cramps off, on 7 times. Bring 1 wide piece 11 hex. Mind your p+qs on descent.Back at the boat by 9;00am day 5.

It seems like there is a thread I responded to a couple of days ago,giving some beta on ice there. I think it was "ski bowl ice". The only thing I would correct is only the tops are visible from the road, and they face the sun so this late it is sure to be drippy.the easiest thing there is wi4+. They are low too, I'd say 3-4k' [ 03-20-2002: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

Bring this Alaska to me ...... MAY 10 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! West Ridge of Hunterrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr [ 03-19-2002: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

Other great routes when the others are busy; Fear of flyingCrusinHigh and MightyJensens RidgeRed Ice Steppenwolf!Mystery Route( Yes it is at Beacon)Dont tell anyoneFire and Ice (chopped)Anything on the Seasons WallPacific Rim

I am from pdx but now live in Seattle,so I dont know about this year. They will form when the Gorge does,and stick around a little longer. they are visible froom the road .about 5 routes will form up on the left side of the bluff . I led one of the steep curtains to steep gullies at WI5+ the place is steep and long requiring 2 ropes. most are tr able with bolts at top. Leading pro is available but take your whole bag of tricks

I have led a couple of them they are great practice. Have you been to Petes? Illumination? They have the better ice