wayne

I got mine yesterday and I was wondering when this was going to be a post.Didnt take long

As long as we are REI bashing , I was in there the other day and was amazed at how the clothing dept has taken over the whole store! The kids clothing is larger than the climbing dept. But try to find a pair of mens sweats that arent the color black!!

My Pro-patrol buddy said the rock is pretty much dry . When you guys go up there please look on the Reid side for me and tell me if there is ice looking stuff?

Spidey, I can go from dec 23-29 Pm me and ill give you a call

[ 11-20-2002, 05:50 PM: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

The gullies are in between the S. chamber area and the ridge line to the left . They are near the lowest point on the I-Rock itself. The s. chamber gully itself is a great 80 degree ice route itself if you take the easiest way up. One of my favorites is the ridge just right of the s. chamber

Link to Winter mixed clibing on Illumination Rock.I-Rock

I am headed ther the next 2 weekends, Does anyone know how white it is ? What percent of the rock is showing? I expect it to be great! In case you havent heard there are topos in Climaxe in Portland and Pro Mt. Sports in Seattle

Can we have more than 5? 1. Solo of new York Gully 2.West ridge of Hunter direct start to 12k 3.DNB Bear mt. 4.DEB Early Wint Spire free 5.Juno-Clean Break 5 1/2.Goode EB 5 3/4.Inspiration ER and WR Macmillan

This is the most reliable,and easy to use place I have been to outside of Banff. I Rock web page [ 11-19-2002, 09:25 PM: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

-Illumination Rock 9,643' As the 6th highest Volcanic summit in Oregon, the "I-Rock" also represents the most difficult and committing summit in the state. It is also the scene of some of the most technically demanding alpine routes in the Northwest. With mixed rock and ice routes up to 6 pitches long, it is the perfect 1 day playground for the aspiring alpinist. In addition to its easy access and minimal avalanche danger, it enjoys a 6-7 month long mixed rock and ice season. The actual summit is a teetering boulder that few may wish to stand upon. The Monolith itself is a eroded fin of andesite with some loose rock until the ice welds it together. Anyone who ventures should be prepared for the usuals: rock and ice fall, complicated descents and route finding intricacies. The best routes seem to start at the downhill” Toe" of the rock itself and end on the west summit/ West Gable. A dozen new routes have been climbed in the range of M3-M6 ranges, and each are amazing climbs that reliably come "in”.” Pineapple Express “ storms seem to help. There are 2 start gullies that are found on the toe and after 2 pitches will lead one to a steep headwall. The head wall can be climbed directly, or passed to the right for easier climbing. Pure water ice routes form on the east face proper and can vary from WI3-4+ depending on how fat they form. It took a few explorations to become comfortable with this place so get to know it first. I have found the best conditions to occur in Nov-Dec. and Mar-April. It should be cold if you climb on the sunny (east side) but the shady side can be more difficult in general as well as safer in warmer temps.

Hey Jon! Don Serl should NOT be a "Wanker"

Jens now you know one of the reasons I moved up here. It is a different more laid-back scene. People seem happy with their monthly Smith trip. People down there are very cool and friendly and some of my favorite people in the world thrive there

What were some other great things Peter Croft did here didnt he do something to the Stuart range . Anyone know if he did anything in the Pickets?

Tough Choice ! I would love it if someone could tape the Kearny one as I am seeing Charlie. Off we go now.....

YeHaww! I cant wait to see it!

Any of the winter mixed stuff on Illumination Rock is certainly memorable stuff to do. For the serious mountaineer only. I am glad to announce that there are now 2 sources to see the topo of the S.E. face. The Pro Mountain Sports now has copies of the Topos . It shows 10 or so of the mixed winter lines currently ? In ? I have my best scouts there soon but Pineapple Express storms seem to help!! I hope to be on it thanks giving day weekendto check it out. I think it could be great RIGHT NOW!!!!!!!!!! [ 11-14-2002, 05:17 PM: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

Hunt and Tillman : The Planet-Ass-Kickers

_____________________________________________________________Originaly posted by rbw1966: Also a good trip: circumnavigation of Mt. Hood during the winter. This is another on my list.[/QB] __________________________________________________ This is so true . The trip is amazing!! [ 11-13-2002, 08:29 PM: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

I second New York Gully. It is way cool and I cant wait to do it again, Hopefully with more Ice on it.

Als sounds good to me too.any one 3rd the vote?

I bivvied halfway up NE butt of Jberg to find 2 feet of snow when I crawled from the cave.It took the rest of my life to get down. I was hit fully by 2 large avalanches during the incredible and desparate downclimb. My hands are sweaty just writing this

Its hard to see the gods fight :to the paternal one CHILL out on the girl I am assuming you were once still new to the sport before you became such a complete You could have said it a lot nicer.Lets be carefull not to suppress this enthusiasm

I am psyching up for Pilchuck myself. It seems the one who wish to stay dry are heading for Smith, though it could easily shower there too. You all have a safe drive and outing !

How would you even get down from those things? Lower over the other side/