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wayne

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Everything posted by wayne

  1. Cavvy, I am bringing my latest project there tonight for your approval. LawSeamstress , I wonder if you have the guts to show up at all. Wear whatever you like. Just darken the door already!!
  2. From the look of the pictures .,the guy went having fun the way he knew to. It must be tough to say Vantage sucks while looking at the picture of the route. May his soul always have peace, and peace return to ours
  3. NO NOT THE DREADED LOCKS OF ALMOST CERTAIN DOOM!! [ 09-30-2002, 06:33 PM: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]
  4. Back in 2000,I had an interesting run in with the Chinese military. We had all the neccessary visas and permits to get to the peak but , how were we to know they would be flooding the border in case something happened in Pakistan/India clash of the week.They were moving some serious artillery and tanks and more troups than you could believe. We were told NOT to take pictures , but there was this dumb bunny with us that kept taking them. Then we were told to leave or we will be shot. We protested and held our ground till it became night and they had to put us up for the night. They next day after we kicked theier ass again at basket ball they sent us back just shy of gunpoint. I didnt want to push it but we paid them over 100k$ !! They let us back in4 days later and we kicked thier ass again at bball! I wouldnt mess with the Chinese mil, they have a cold streak. The games were played at 12k', and we werent yet acclimatised. :
  5. Colin told me of a dude that as done all but 3 of the vol1. I was stricly raveing about the McLane book for its content. I cant believe all the sweet real estate up there,eh!People like Dru have it made! Its cool to have an unknown horizon
  6. Wow it must have happened later in the day.Because I was with Colin ,we got out of there early and didnt hear a thing. There where just tons of people there in general.We ran into a group that were doing Cadet,but didnt see anybody on Monte. Most importantly how is this guy hangin' ,tough, I hope
  7. Good job on the sending of the Tooth, 51st classic route,Cavey. Is there a cc.tr on it ? Good job Eric8 on this season! The Kearny has the best in my opinion too, though the one I mess myself on is the B.C. Select ! Vol1 is better than vol2. What about a winter select? I guess anytime you can get up anything in winter here is select!! [ 09-28-2002, 06:29 PM: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]
  8. May the crystalyzation and transforming OCCUR!!!
  9. I forgot how great the West face is ,great pics Iain! The south Face is good too. The East buttress is amazing as well. The rock is sound for Oregon Though the first pitch is hard to protect,its not that hard
  10. vol 1;33, vol 2:7(alpine) Kearny:23, 50 classics:12 It seems Kearney did all of his selected personally, is that biased then? [ 09-27-2002, 03:10 PM: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]
  11. Those the super-classics are sound, I think the best Or-choss-wank is E.butt of Washington.
  12. quote: Originally posted by iain: You should post all the ones you have checked off before you ask that. Should minimize a lot of the incoming spray. The point was to induce the spray. As for the Ore Choss Wanks > Select? Besides the Palmer Glacier Headwall Direct (without the fixed lines), Are there any select in Oregon? [ 09-26-2002, 07:52 PM: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]
  13. Ok I am sure the authors of the books have done more than any of us, but how many check marks can you boast? Vol 1: Vol 2: Kearny: [ 09-26-2002, 09:56 PM: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]
  14. By far the North Sis is more "fun" .It is the steepest and only exposed peak of the 3. The Early Morning Couloir is good, but does anyone go directly up the Pinnacle?
  15. Thanks , the way is Headlee! I will seek out these Wheaties.
  16. Did you guys try the route?
  17. After doing the Headlee Pass approach , I am wondering if the Becky / Copper Lake approach is easier? Would someone tell me what it is like. please?
  18. My worst partner ever was Rick Sylvester( the semi famous one) He dropped me 30' on an A3 pitch half way up the Liberty Cap in YV. I hit the ledge he had just taken a shit on and almost landed in it.After severly spraining my ankle he bitches that I didnt carry all the weight down I should have . As if that wasnt enough he strands me in the valley and I have to hitchhike out bareley able to walk.I have heard of many epics with this guy.
  19. So TUESDAY? Latona? Where is it?
  20. I left copies of topos in Climaxe. Those guys should give me free picks for sending people in there. They shouldnt be copied though as they are to end up in Jeff Thomas' update if he gets it finished .
  21. Men , Hold your ground and wait till the frosting occurs on Illumination rock! It is the shit I am telling you !!
  22. What are you suggesting Mr. Skoog? Mr. Becky did the "P" word? I am shock and dissillusioned... Everything I have ever known.. It was a reat climb though. I noticed he took out the word ICE between his two editions. It would have been an even greater route if it was mixed. I guess you could do a spring ascent and find some [ 09-11-2002, 08:24 PM: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]
  23. That shrund was a Monster a couple of years ago when I did it. We went all the way to rappelers left to get down with one rope, and it was scary. The snow top made a nice bollard. The route is gripping with new snow on it
  24. Just be carefull if you want to tell him about your new route climbing projects
  25. I will be there , Lets keep this post active every day so the word gets out!!
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