wayne

By far the North Sis is more "fun" .It is the steepest and only exposed peak of the 3. The Early Morning Couloir is good, but does anyone go directly up the Pinnacle?

Thanks , the way is Headlee! I will seek out these Wheaties.

Did you guys try the route?

After doing the Headlee Pass approach , I am wondering if the Becky / Copper Lake approach is easier? Would someone tell me what it is like. please?

My worst partner ever was Rick Sylvester( the semi famous one) He dropped me 30' on an A3 pitch half way up the Liberty Cap in YV. I hit the ledge he had just taken a shit on and almost landed in it.After severly spraining my ankle he bitches that I didnt carry all the weight down I should have . As if that wasnt enough he strands me in the valley and I have to hitchhike out bareley able to walk.I have heard of many epics with this guy.

So TUESDAY? Latona? Where is it?

I left copies of topos in Climaxe. Those guys should give me free picks for sending people in there. They shouldnt be copied though as they are to end up in Jeff Thomas' update if he gets it finished .

Men , Hold your ground and wait till the frosting occurs on Illumination rock! It is the shit I am telling you !!

What are you suggesting Mr. Skoog? Mr. Becky did the "P" word? I am shock and dissillusioned... Everything I have ever known.. It was a reat climb though. I noticed he took out the word ICE between his two editions. It would have been an even greater route if it was mixed. I guess you could do a spring ascent and find some [ 09-11-2002, 08:24 PM: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

That shrund was a Monster a couple of years ago when I did it. We went all the way to rappelers left to get down with one rope, and it was scary. The snow top made a nice bollard. The route is gripping with new snow on it

Just be carefull if you want to tell him about your new route climbing projects

I will be there , Lets keep this post active every day so the word gets out!!

Are you doing the N Face on Buckner? Lets see how you feel after doing that!

I did it in Oct in the 80s. > it was after the first snow dusting and it was cold. There might be less ice now ,it was all the way ice then with a little rock at the finish. It was a great climb and I hope it can go for you. It may be a little warm right now.

Hey Portland boulderers, Has anyone tried the low traverses on Red wall left to right or the daddy of them all: Bat Wall left to right . I wanna hear about it. V?

It was nice in the South Pickets,but a bit foggy at times . It looked bad everywhere else. Got lucky with the visibility on the glacier

Lets do it! Weekday? I vote UW

quote: Originally posted by wayne1112: The oldest one I have seen is the one I found from 1945, after I did the first ever solo, and the most recent ascent in in 17 years. I did the 13th ascent total > It was a complete nightmare of a climb OK , I guess I didnt say which peak it was ! St. Peters Dome in the Columbia River George, Oregon

Right across the river from the Hamilton is the WI5+ Brave New World, It is very overhanging on 2 of its 9 pitches ,one goes through a 12' roof! Hasnt seen a second ascent. Me and Tim got the first

Ya I did it , But I did a direct and very sick finish passing up some old back-off slings. 5.9+X-very loose.So I cant tell you aboutthe upper part of the route,though I now knows it traverses right after the snowfield. The rest of the route is quite serious in its self.The routefinding is tough. The rock is fairly loose, though it is the coolest thing you can do in south Oregon.It reminded me of N. Cascades. Rope induced rockfall almost took off my partners ear! I wish everyone knew the story of Mark Mcgloughlin. He seemed so cool.I read both the books on his tragic climb of Denali. White Winds is the best, In the hall Of the Mt King is a poor account in my opinion. I attended a talk with Joe Wilcox and was very moved by the events . I was honored to be one of the few people to do the Memorial.Wayne Wallace

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- hey wayne, cool topo you dropped off - looks like a fun route that i wish i was good enough to lead! i was wondering what your opinion is on the soloist vs. the silent partner. i was thinking of getting one. the silent partner looks like the one i want, but do you know of any particular drawbacks or differences between it and the soloist that i might want to think about? (i just have their literature on it.) thanks, Hey there I wish I had some experience with the silent partner ,however I can tell you the disadvantages of the soloist. Dont ever fall upsidedown!! Rope drag is a suck and you have to do the prussik thing while leading like it shows in the book. You should get proficient before you use it ,it has peculiarities. Traversing sucks hard , it doesnt pay rope out well. I try to solo around other groups of people , I have almost gotten stuck mid climb. Coil out your rope really well. Have fun with it,it beats sitting at home. Wayne

PM me with super secret pc,shh.....

Try the "5.9" chimney on Prussik and bow down to its Supreme and ultimate power, oh measly goshzilla of punydome. I pity you soo.........

The oldest one I have seen is the one I found from 1945, after I did the first ever solo, and the most recent ascent in in 17 years. I did the 13th ascent total > It was a complete nightmare of a climb

Ahh The Carmigan Traverse: 2 cars for every man , woman , and child. The Global Warming Shuttle trip that didnt happen!! Stebbi where did you take that picture of yourself that you use in your avatar? was it before your 5 epics on the Challenger travers?? I must have a trip report on It on my desk in the morning! I am still high from Bear Mt,