wayne

Just be carefull if you want to tell him about your new route climbing projects

I will be there , Lets keep this post active every day so the word gets out!!

Are you doing the N Face on Buckner? Lets see how you feel after doing that!

I did it in Oct in the 80s. > it was after the first snow dusting and it was cold. There might be less ice now ,it was all the way ice then with a little rock at the finish. It was a great climb and I hope it can go for you. It may be a little warm right now.

Hey Portland boulderers, Has anyone tried the low traverses on Red wall left to right or the daddy of them all: Bat Wall left to right . I wanna hear about it. V?

It was nice in the South Pickets,but a bit foggy at times . It looked bad everywhere else. Got lucky with the visibility on the glacier

Lets do it! Weekday? I vote UW

quote: Originally posted by wayne1112: The oldest one I have seen is the one I found from 1945, after I did the first ever solo, and the most recent ascent in in 17 years. I did the 13th ascent total > It was a complete nightmare of a climb OK , I guess I didnt say which peak it was ! St. Peters Dome in the Columbia River George, Oregon

Right across the river from the Hamilton is the WI5+ Brave New World, It is very overhanging on 2 of its 9 pitches ,one goes through a 12' roof! Hasnt seen a second ascent. Me and Tim got the first

Ya I did it , But I did a direct and very sick finish passing up some old back-off slings. 5.9+X-very loose.So I cant tell you aboutthe upper part of the route,though I now knows it traverses right after the snowfield. The rest of the route is quite serious in its self.The routefinding is tough. The rock is fairly loose, though it is the coolest thing you can do in south Oregon.It reminded me of N. Cascades. Rope induced rockfall almost took off my partners ear! I wish everyone knew the story of Mark Mcgloughlin. He seemed so cool.I read both the books on his tragic climb of Denali. White Winds is the best, In the hall Of the Mt King is a poor account in my opinion. I attended a talk with Joe Wilcox and was very moved by the events . I was honored to be one of the few people to do the Memorial.Wayne Wallace

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- hey wayne, cool topo you dropped off - looks like a fun route that i wish i was good enough to lead! i was wondering what your opinion is on the soloist vs. the silent partner. i was thinking of getting one. the silent partner looks like the one i want, but do you know of any particular drawbacks or differences between it and the soloist that i might want to think about? (i just have their literature on it.) thanks, Hey there I wish I had some experience with the silent partner ,however I can tell you the disadvantages of the soloist. Dont ever fall upsidedown!! Rope drag is a suck and you have to do the prussik thing while leading like it shows in the book. You should get proficient before you use it ,it has peculiarities. Traversing sucks hard , it doesnt pay rope out well. I try to solo around other groups of people , I have almost gotten stuck mid climb. Coil out your rope really well. Have fun with it,it beats sitting at home. Wayne

PM me with super secret pc,shh.....

Try the "5.9" chimney on Prussik and bow down to its Supreme and ultimate power, oh measly goshzilla of punydome. I pity you soo.........

The oldest one I have seen is the one I found from 1945, after I did the first ever solo, and the most recent ascent in in 17 years. I did the 13th ascent total > It was a complete nightmare of a climb

Ahh The Carmigan Traverse: 2 cars for every man , woman , and child. The Global Warming Shuttle trip that didnt happen!! Stebbi where did you take that picture of yourself that you use in your avatar? was it before your 5 epics on the Challenger travers?? I must have a trip report on It on my desk in the morning! I am still high from Bear Mt,

Nelly I remmember and loved your show! Formidable "complete,complete is approacherd by the Middle fork of course,but you cross the entry creek early and climb the forested lower ridge. Long grunt for sure,and be careful going down,as it is easy to get cliffed if you dont stay on the ridge.eventually youcome to a sub peak that you cross on the west and you can get a great bivvy on the col. The ridge starts steep and is 5.6 at least if you stay on the ridge. It is easier on the left.Several more steps and youll get to the original rt.It was interesting to not see any slings or fixed gear the whole way and what an adventure free solo!

Caught up with him the other day ,Hes been doin stuff........ Soloed Alpamayo..... Did another rt there Did goode in a day..... Did Clean break... Inspiration E. Ridge... Fury N. Buttress... Probably more,but he was busy with a customer..

You guys dont need to apologize for squat , we still can use this, the greatest, site I have ever used! Get to it when the season is over ,thats when we really need it.

Just led every pitch on DNB of Bear Mt. Good job on Formidable! tell Fred as he is updating his book. [ 08-13-2002, 08:24 PM: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

Been following you guys,and I say you put in a good effort! I know K2 doesnt come easy, but you come back safe and give it another shot.

OK Lets see some of you lurkers show up this time

I had a great experience . I posted some cams for sale got a few bites , then I forgot about them . and months later somebody pm'ed me and they sold! I have since updated all of my cams and I can still climb! Anybody want a Kill Serratus Ice Pack?

I free soloed the "complete" N. ridge in 24 hrs. It is more direct and you dont have to deal with glaciers, It is a bit if a sandbag overall, At 5.0, I woulndnt take it lightly, THe rock is loose and not much for pro.

The 2 times I went part way up in bad weather , there were way too many people going up anyways!!! Its not the heat its the Stupidity!!

I dont know how this ended up in the Gear critic section, is anyone able to move it?