Stefan

I had a friend who blew out a knee by the Gardners by Winthrop. He had a helicopter come and pick him up by the SAR folks out there. I think it was a county helicopter--but I could be wrong. My friend said he had to pay $5000 for the helicopter ride.

When I was rescued in the Enchantments the dudes in the helicopter were stoked becuase they got to do a real life rescue in more precarious terrain than their training ground on the Yakima reservation. They even turned out all their lights (10pm or 11pm was the rescue) on the Blackhawk and used night vision goggles during the whole rescue.

That is why I like to have the rope not taught when going uphill. I like that extra second to hear someone yell "falling" before I get yanked at the same time they yell "falling". See thread here: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/s...true#Post332174 This is why the accident happened. Is because there was slack in the rope and the client built up speed. The conditions were really icy and the guide was putting in pro, when the client walked closer to him(to talk or something), putting slack in the rope and then fell, pulled another and then the guide. Apparently, there is still a long visible gouge in the snow where the guide tried to arrest the fall. So you are saying the client was moving toward the guide? The guide saw the client moving toward him? If this is the case, and the guide saw the client moving him, then it would not matter if there was slack or no slack. The guide would be ripped off. If the guide is leading a taught line and the client falls and the clients yells "falling", guess what? The guide is immediately ripped out of his position. If the guide has a short amount of slack and client falls and the client yells "falling", guess what? The guide has a very short window to get into self arrest. I guess your choice is to be immediately ripped out of position rather than have the opportunity for a short window. I do not take the same opinion on flat ground, or going downhill where the guide is in the rear position. They were descending and the guide was on the uphill side. I did not know that fact. Thank you for pointing it out. I do not believe in slack on the downhill.

That is why I like to have the rope not taught when going uphill. I like that extra second to hear someone yell "falling" before I get yanked at the same time they yell "falling". See thread here: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/s...true#Post332174 This is why the accident happened. Is because there was slack in the rope and the client built up speed. The conditions were really icy and the guide was putting in pro, when the client walked closer to him(to talk or something), putting slack in the rope and then fell, pulled another and then the guide. Apparently, there is still a long visible gouge in the snow where the guide tried to arrest the fall. So you are saying the client was moving toward the guide? The guide saw the client moving toward him? If this is the case, and the guide saw the client moving him, then it would not matter if there was slack or no slack. The guide would be ripped off. If the guide is leading a taught line and the client falls and the clients yells "falling", guess what? The guide is immediately ripped out of his position. If the guide has a short amount of slack and client falls and the client yells "falling", guess what? The guide has a very short window to get into self arrest. I guess your choice is to be immediately ripped out of position rather than have the opportunity for a short window. I do not take the same opinion on flat ground, or going downhill where the guide is in the rear position.

Selkirk: Is this some type of psychology study you did for a class?

The police are all out writing tickets becuase they have caught all the rapists, and burglars. This is why when you get something stolen out of your vehicle, they will never have the time to find the perp.

That is why I like to have the rope not taught when going uphill. I like that extra second to hear someone yell "falling" before I get yanked at the same time they yell "falling". See thread here: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/s...true#Post332174

To guess what went wrong and note it for yourself in how to avoid an accident for yourself in the future. News media does not always print out the correct story. First they report the story, then they may correct it later.

that certainly makes more sense. or, one person fell into the crevasse when the bridge collapsed, and then dragged one or two more into the crevasse becuase the clients did not know how to properly self arrest

Had a climbing accident. Broke both ankles. It's on this website somewhere. What I remember most about during the fall: I knew for some reason I was not going to die, due to my line of fall. I really thought for a brief moment before I cratered: "Shit. My wife is going to be pissed off at me."

Cosho is not the end of Ragged Ridge.....

I took this girl out in high school one night about one week before Christmas. 1986. First date. I borrowed the parent's car, and wanted to watch the submarine races from the hills overlooking Eugene on the west (by Marcola). We get up near the top, and it is midnight. We go down the wrong logging road, so I start backing up. All of a sudden the car stops and flips over the side, stopped by a tree on hillside. We are hanging upside down in our seatbelts. Shit. If this happened about 100 yards to either side of this accident we would have rolled multiple times becuase those were clearcut areas--thank God for trees. We are 20 miles from the nearest phone. We walk about 10 minutes and by gosh 3 hicks drive up drunk off of 2 liter wine coolers. (Yes, back then, they did have wine coolers in two liter jugs). So, we hitched a ride with them. They were kind enough to drop us off at my house about 35 miles away. I ended up marrying that woman.

I have never had my Honda Civic broken into. What kind of vehicles do you own?

Bush really doesn't give a fuck about the future of Iraq. His plan right from the get go was to get Saddam out of power. Even before he took office. Why? Becuase his daddy did not get Saddam out of power in the first Iraq war, and his daddy, Schwarzkopf, and all the rest of the Hawks (Rumsfeld,Wolfowitz,Schultz) in D.C. felt like a failure for not doing that during the end of the first war negotiations. But the main reason: W. was pissed off that Saddam had organized an assassination at his daddy after his daddy was no longer in power. Why do you not think there was no plan for after the war?--they did not give a crap after the war. Ridding Saddam of power was the goal. That's why you are seeing now all the reports of going to war was a key thing for Bushie to go. He was just looking for excuses. 9-11 was a good excuse. So were "weapons of mass destruction".

The summit is the top. If you do not touch the top, then you do not reach the top. You can still complete a route and not do the top. I do not know of any other hard and fast rules involving the summit.

Of course George Lucas was trying to do an analogy. When that line happened in the movie, I laughed. I was the only one in the audience who laughed--I thought that was strange. And then I thought, "My God, these people in the audience don't know the reference."

Awesome! That is marvelous.

did anyone see the words, "to acquire the remainder of the property from unwilling owners in exchange for JUST COMPENSATION." Does "just compensation" in this case mean "higher than market value" for this incident becuase it is for private purposes? Usually in emminent domain for public projects the property owner receives market value. I would be curious to know if in this case "just compensation" exceeds market value due to privatization.

Or it could mean that certain law enforcement officials like to play on the internet during work just like we do. Many of them could be climbers too.

check your pms

Isn't getting knowledge where a route is--considered beta? What about the grade? If so, then the only person to onsight a route is the first person.

Here is a friends webcam towards Big Devil from Marblemount. http://www.magic-mountain.net/mountaincam.htm

I have a Yashica T4. I use Velvia for my slides. I have never been dissappointed in this combination. And I am a very basic student of photography.

I have fallen down a slope while a picket was placed. I was thankful for the picket. It was spring snow conditions. I used to place "dead men" in new snow. But have refrained due to the different types of climbing I do in winter.

I did not know you were the authoritarian on what "climbing" means.