Stefan

This is an awesome thread. I am married. For 13 years. After 13 years there is some comfort in knowing how deep the hole goes.

climbing is a hobby. just like model train sets.

Ummmm.....I am not joking. I am amazed at how he got to that location. The Rupal Face is amazing. That is a feat to get there.

I guess they couldn't get to him with the helicopters. It is amazing to see where Tomaz is at. To get there and the goal he had....

Gary, Drop Z. Happened to me before. I wonder if Z is the same person? I hope someday I can be your F dude. Screw the other chaps in between D and W.

Good pictures. Nice. Yep. Those registers I USED to place held water nicely.

Here is a quick tip. Get a 3000-4000 cu pack. If you buy a big pack you will want to stuff it becuase you have the space. If you purchase and use a small pack you will notice that your natural response will be to eliminate what you can live without becuase not all your stuff can fit in the smaller packs.

I would quash this thread if I could. The border patrol knows about us. And they are willing to let us do our "across the border to get route" attitudes. But if illicits knew and started using the info, you could bet there would be a hammer coming down on the climbing community from the border patrol. Recommendation=keep it quiet and eliminate this thread.

I remember reading a story of somebody rappeling using the strap off their camera as a rappel sling. It was on Gasherbrum IV.

Did you steal that girlfriend of yours from any man recently?

I hate rappel failure. "Hate" is not too strong of a word.

great pictures!

That family theme is great! Love the pictures. Thanks for sharing.

At least the guy in Enumclaw died while doing something he loved.

Thanks for sharing. That is a cool game.

Esteem is an important part. If you do not believe in yourself, then you are probably not going to complete a difficult route. Remember Carl Lewis? I remember his interviews. Damn he was egotistical. But he believed in himself.

not sure if this question pertains to that above....but, is there a bulletin board on this site called called "Newbies"?

I kiss the top of every summit. My climbing partners know this. One time they reached the top just before me and they all pissed on the actual summit rock.

Thank you for sharing! Those are some great photos. What a great trip you two had. Me jealous? You bet!

Keith. Great to have met you on the trail. I did Chiwawa, and then followed your footsteps up to the summit of Fortress....traversed over to Massie Peak and then down. PM me and you could be on on my email list...and maybe sometime you would like to join me. I live in Auburn...I am always looking for more southern Puget Sound folks...becuase they are so rare.

I had a friend who blew out a knee by the Gardners by Winthrop. He had a helicopter come and pick him up by the SAR folks out there. I think it was a county helicopter--but I could be wrong. My friend said he had to pay $5000 for the helicopter ride.

When I was rescued in the Enchantments the dudes in the helicopter were stoked becuase they got to do a real life rescue in more precarious terrain than their training ground on the Yakima reservation. They even turned out all their lights (10pm or 11pm was the rescue) on the Blackhawk and used night vision goggles during the whole rescue.

That is why I like to have the rope not taught when going uphill. I like that extra second to hear someone yell "falling" before I get yanked at the same time they yell "falling". See thread here: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/s...true#Post332174 This is why the accident happened. Is because there was slack in the rope and the client built up speed. The conditions were really icy and the guide was putting in pro, when the client walked closer to him(to talk or something), putting slack in the rope and then fell, pulled another and then the guide. Apparently, there is still a long visible gouge in the snow where the guide tried to arrest the fall. So you are saying the client was moving toward the guide? The guide saw the client moving toward him? If this is the case, and the guide saw the client moving him, then it would not matter if there was slack or no slack. The guide would be ripped off. If the guide is leading a taught line and the client falls and the clients yells "falling", guess what? The guide is immediately ripped out of his position. If the guide has a short amount of slack and client falls and the client yells "falling", guess what? The guide has a very short window to get into self arrest. I guess your choice is to be immediately ripped out of position rather than have the opportunity for a short window. I do not take the same opinion on flat ground, or going downhill where the guide is in the rear position. They were descending and the guide was on the uphill side. I did not know that fact. Thank you for pointing it out. I do not believe in slack on the downhill.

That is why I like to have the rope not taught when going uphill. I like that extra second to hear someone yell "falling" before I get yanked at the same time they yell "falling". See thread here: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/s...true#Post332174 This is why the accident happened. Is because there was slack in the rope and the client built up speed. The conditions were really icy and the guide was putting in pro, when the client walked closer to him(to talk or something), putting slack in the rope and then fell, pulled another and then the guide. Apparently, there is still a long visible gouge in the snow where the guide tried to arrest the fall. So you are saying the client was moving toward the guide? The guide saw the client moving toward him? If this is the case, and the guide saw the client moving him, then it would not matter if there was slack or no slack. The guide would be ripped off. If the guide is leading a taught line and the client falls and the clients yells "falling", guess what? The guide is immediately ripped out of his position. If the guide has a short amount of slack and client falls and the client yells "falling", guess what? The guide has a very short window to get into self arrest. I guess your choice is to be immediately ripped out of position rather than have the opportunity for a short window. I do not take the same opinion on flat ground, or going downhill where the guide is in the rear position.

Selkirk: Is this some type of psychology study you did for a class?