Bronco

They all show up nicely for me!

I'm not 100% sure this is the one DPS refers to but there's a good possibility it is:

Still above .500!

I believe the point is still valid (upgrading your old beacon) but if you want to remove the post or links, feel free. I try to be consistent with providing a link to the source if I'm copy and pasting something. Is this a breach of internet protocol? I seriously don't know.

from here: https://www.adventure-journal.com/2019/04/might-it-be-time-to-replace-your-old-avy-beacon/ How long have you had your cell phone? Probably less three years, statistically speaking. Tech changes so you change your phone. Simple enough. But if you’re a backcountry skier or snowshoer, or otherwise venture into avalanche zones—what about your avalanche beacon? How often do you replace that? Technology changes quickly in those units too. Dual-antennae beacons were widely used in for years, but now three-antennae are the standard. Take it from the Canadian Avalanche Association: “Dual antenna digital transceivers aren’t obsolete, but they’re dated. The current crop of three antenna digital transceivers supersedes them and provides clear advantages over previous generations… Through May 1, if you want to trade up to the most modern avy beacons on the market, at least those made by Ortovox, any Ortovox dealer will accept an old beacon, no matter who made it, for $75 credit toward their new Ortovox 3+ beacon. Unsure if your beacon is starting to be outdated? The Canadian Avalanche Association has a checklist of reasons to update here.

Great story!

Shirtless Tech bro sighting IMG_2732 2.HEIC

I have a wide, high volume foot and the Salewa boots are my new favorite, better fit for me than the Scarpa Charmoz. I have put a bunch of miles on the Rapace which hikes great and climbs ok since it's a 3/4 shank. I also have the Vultur boot that I picked up cheap off of Ebay last fall and really like them as well but they are overkill for anything but cold weather. I think the Crows would be great for PNW 3 season climbing and I might replace the Rapace boots with them when they wear out. And of course, DPS's advice and list are spot on. Except the Hexes.

When do these guys reveal themselves to be the crappy team they're supposed to be? Right after the all star break like last year? I just looked and discovered the only other time the M's have started out 6-1, was the legendary 1995 season where they saved baseball in Seattle, winning their first AL West title and making a run to the ALCS. This could be the year they go to the World Series!

That's great you found something that fits so well, six miles with no problems is pretty successful out of the box. You may already be aware of this but, it's I believe it's really important to take your boots to the shop and try different crampons on them to make sure they fit the welt and width of your particular boot prior to purchasing. Anyone who has much alpine climbing experience can attest to the importance of this being a secure fit. I've been that guy who buy's the new sexy crampons on-line only to find out they don't really fit my boots when they start rattling around on a climb where a loss of traction is going to have some consequences. You should REALLY like the way the crampon hugs your boot. Anyway, I hope that helps!

Whoops, that was DPS' list, for some reason I though it was yours. Carry on -

You don't need the stove or the rope. RMI will provide those and will probably be annoyed if you show up with them. You might add gators to your list, it seems like that was a requirement in the olden days. I'm sure they'll send you a very detailed packing list once you register.

Welcome to CC.com! I'd suggest getting your pack weight down (80 lbs!) and do some steep snow hikes if you have access. RMI should have some other recommendations for your gear (don't bring more than what they list) and training on their website. I was able to climb the DC route with RMI in the year of 2000 so keep that in mind. The RMI bivy shack at Camp Muir is a smelly place that I wouldn't depend on getting a lot of sound sleep the night before summit day. You're in one room with a bunch of other strangers farting and snoring. I think they get you up at midnight anyway so it's not like you're trying to get 8 hours of sleep. On summit day, you'll be teamed up on a rope with people who don't have as much experience/fitness and some folks who have more than you. RMI may turn around folks who aren't comfortable or able to continue at certain points. When I climbed with them (a long time ago) on summit day I switched rope teams 3-4 times as folks dropped off. So long as you have ok weather and you're able to physically keep up, you should be able to continue on to the summit. The DC route in prime climbing season is a circus but interesting enough terrain to keep your attention. Hope that helps -

Salewa has some great boots out as well. Ascent Outdoors shop in Ballard has one of the best selections of boots around and pretty knowledgable folks working there.

Black diamond Bod and Alpine Bod appear to use the old style buckle.

I watched Free Solo and then Dawn Wall the next night. Interesting contrast even thought both we filmed on El Cap. I was touched by Caldwell choosing to help Kevin work through the crux for a few days instead of just finishing the climb. I thought it was a much more enjoyable film than Free Solo.

Amazing you guys were uninjured in the fall, sounds pretty hairy! Thanks for positing, I'll have to add this one to the list (minus the detour into the 'schrund).

Thanks Jon, that works just fine!

Howdy - The "Trip Report Search" link at the top of the page isn't working for me. I get an error that says "can't connect to the server at cascadeclimbers.com" I turned off my ad blockers and popup blockers and accepted cookies. Any other ideas? I'm trying to research some extreme climbing routes for the upcoming hardman season!

I say save it in case you run out of webbing to rap off of.

Yeah, I don't think the park staff is to blame. I've been responsible for clearing roads in the mountains and if they don't get addressed frequently, it's a major problem to get them opened up again. I'm impressed that it looks like they'll get it opened up soon!

Probably get it open just in time for the pending shut down on February 15.

Dovetailing Jason's comments, I was reminded on Saturday how much a slight change of aspect can also significantly impact snow quality. Went from boiler plate to breakable crust to 3" of hoar frost and facets as I went from SW-S-SE facing terrain. The hoar frost was pretty fun to ski. Happy Monday from Captain Obvious!

So now that the shutdown is over, will they re-open the road to Paradise? Fortunately it hasn't snowed a bunch in the last 34 days but probably enough that they might consider leaving it closed until it melts out.

Thanks for the excellent write-up and glad you didn't have to wait for the rescue. Could have been a cold night out.