Bronco

I clicked the donate tab and:

Washington State Department of Transportation North Central Region – 2830 Euclid Ave. Wenatchee, WA 98801– 509-667-3000 TRAVEL ADVISORY Nov. 8, 2022 Contacts: Lauren Loebsack, communications, 509-860-0000 North Cascades Highway to remain closed for winter WINTHROP – With nearly 30 inches of snowfall over the weekend, SR 20 North Cascades Highway will remain closed for the winter between Ross Lake Dam trailhead (milepost 134) and Early Winters gate (milepost 178). The route was closed between milepost 134 and 171 for potential avalanche danger on Thursday, Nov. 3. Throughout the weekend, the North Cascades and the area surrounding the eastern slopes were repeatedly hit with snow and rain. Though the immediate avalanche danger is now low, conditions are likely to change. Maintaining the closure now will allow crews to focus time and resources on the communities east of the mountain passes that have received up to 2 feet of snow in places. A snow berm has been built at the Early Winters gate at milepost 178 while crews focus on clearing routes on the east side of the mountain passes. Depending on resources and conditions, the road may be reopened to Silver Star gate for sno park access prior to the holidays. Spring clearing work is typically assessed in March and the seasonal reopening can be as late as June, depending on conditions. Updates on the spring clearing work will be shared in the North Cascades newsletter, the real time travel map, and on Twitter at @WSDOT_East.

Missed this the first time around. Mad respect for Kim putting up with your shenanigans!

This is serious stuff!

Funny, we found an abandoned rope in the "Black Notch" on Goode in 2012 where someone rapped the wrong gully and left the rope behind for some reason. We decided to just haul it out partially due to it being garbage in the mountains but also because it was set up on the wrong rap route. It's a long ways to haul a rope, especially when it's not yours to start with.

That's a poetic finish if I've ever heard one!

Green Beckey lists the NE Route, NW Shoulder, SE Face and some other variations. You might check it out from the library or something.

I've seen a black bear with a complete white stripe down it's back, looked like a giant skunk. Tracks are definitely black bear. I had a cinnamon colored black bear encounter this spring in the upper Methow and found this guide on how to tell tracks apart useful: https://westernwildlife.org/black-bear-ursus-americanus/know-your-bears/

Same here, had a pair for a couple of years, the uppers are holding up great. I really prefer leather non-goretex approach shoes.

It certainly rolls off the tongue a little easier than Ptarmigan Direct.

Nice! Thanks for sharing the TR-

Haven't been in that way but remember how heinous the brush is along Bridge Creek and thankful for the trail. It could be pretty slow going cross country.

Pretty depressing to see the glacial recession in just the last two decades. I was listening to an endurance sport podcast this morning and the runner being interviewed was talking about traveling to Bhutan to participate in an ultra intended to increase climate change awareness. I'm not sure how people justify an International flight to raise climate change awareness, can you purchase a carbon offset or something? Sounds like a scenario from Idiocracy. https://newsinfo.inquirer.net/1147621/bhutan-to-host-worlds-toughest-ultra-marathon-to-raise-climate-change-awareness

Wow, great TR!

No, it sounds terrible!

I'd say if Washington Pass rock is graded an "A", then the N. Buttress of Goode is a "B-" The most difficult part is generally gaining the toe of the ridge from the glacier, once you're on the ridge/buttress, it's pretty sustained blocky 4th and low 5th climbing. Obviously very exposed but relatively clean. It's been a while but I don't remember any hard moves after making the transition to the ridge.

Great photos as usual! What kind of tent is that the 3rd to last photo?

Yes, we've been hurt so many times!

Alpine climber/dad joke humor, sorry folks.

Sounds like a lot of walking for a couple pitches of ice.

Fun day, good glissading if you're willing!

Nice, thanks for posting the TR and funny tidbit about encountering Pope and Dwanyner. It's good to know they're still out there somewhere probably yukking it up.

Climbing Ranger Blog from here: https://mountrainierclimbing.blogspot.com/2022/06/upper-mountain-skiing-and-snowboarding.html?fbclid=IwAR0oypputNf8ec71zX-XZTzJnz-3NImMlJJvIGXT2eXatgfSddz9IFwlsw4 While it's not in the forecast yet, there will be an end to the persistent series of 'wet season-like' storms that have been pasting the mountain with snow. When the weather does stabilize we expect to see an influx of skiers looking to take advantage of what could be very good conditions. Please keep the following things in mind, though, before rushing to the mountain. 1) Give the snowpack time to stabilize 2) Just because you're on skis it doesn't make you safer. 3) Climbing with ski/snowboard gear takes more effort and is slower. 4) Timing is everything. A ski/snowboard descent of Mt Rainier can be a wonderful and exhilarating experience. It can also be terrifying and extremely dangerous. It should never be taken lightly and for mountaineers with very little climbing and skiing/snowboarding experience it may not be at all appropriate in many conditions.

Multiple Accidents on Shasta Looks like at least one fatality on Shasta and multiple injured skier/climbers due to reported water ice. It would be interesting to know what weather conditions contributed to this to catch so many individuals and teams unaware.

Ok, sounds like you know what you're getting into. Enjoy!