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Everything posted by Bronco
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Bastards. You're an awful long way from cell coverage up there.
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Dang, kind of a long drive to get the cat off a car. Anyone else get hit by the thieves?
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Here we go again. Haven't been able to bring myself to watch or listen to any games lately. Is it injuries or just terrible at baseball as usual?
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[TR] Mt Hood - Reid Headwall Right Variation 05/24/2022
Bronco replied to adventure43's topic in Oregon Cascades
Great photos! -
At least the logging project is scheduled to take 3 years!
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Also this - https://methowvalleynews.com/2022/04/13/work-on-mission-project-logging-will-begin-in-may/ Logging project in the Methow that will send 12 logging truck loads over HWY 20 twice per day. Should be interesting to see the shenanigans at the 4 way stop in Winthrop between the tourons who wander around eating ice cream cones while staring at their phone and logging truck drivers in a hurry to get to Darrington.
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[TR] South Early Winters Spire - SW Couloir 05/14/2022
Bronco replied to JasonG's topic in North Cascades
And still better than snowshoes! -
Send this cat to patrol the crags for unleashed dogs: https://mynorthwest.com/3460416/infamous-bellevue-cat-wins-large-settlement-due-to-conflict-of-interest/
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On Friday DOT said they have at least a week of snow clearing and then they can make repairs to the guardrails and road. Based on the big washout on HWY 20 between Marblemount and Newhalem, I'm guessing they'll find some more road damage than normal once they get the road exposed up at the pass. I'm hoping it's open by May 14th but it's not looking very likely at this point.
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Maybe we should start a new thread for this but, are people successfully self arresting a slide with ice tools (as opposed to a traditional axe)? Are you using the spike of the shaft? I attempted to practice it years ago and it didn't go well with a drop pick tool. I feel like I'm missing something.
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Here's a link to road status and projected opening dates: https://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/road-status.htm
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- early season
- rainier
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Hi, welcome to the forum. The weather in May on Rainier is fickle. I've certainly been stormed off in May. The best weather for Rainier is typically the end of July and August. Unfortunately this is past the season for the Curtis, Liberty and Ptarmigan routes. Too late in the season and you won't have enough snow/ice on the route. Too early and you're wading in chest deep snow if the weather allows an attempt. If you're traveling from out of the area, it's a huge challenge to line up conditions, partners and weather. My suggestion is to have a solid plan B east of the Cascade Mountain crest like Mt. Stuart or something in the Stuart Range. It's also unlikely the roads to access the Mowich Lake and White River trailheads will be open in early May to further complicate it. The park has to plow them out each year.
- 5 replies
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- early season
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Such a bummer. I saw Rick for a couple of injuries over the years, he was just a super nice, humble person. We even talked about climbing a couple of times and he never mentioned that he had completed the Seven Summits. RIP
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That's what I'm talking about, go Kit!
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No, there's still good turns to be cranked!
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Go see a good boot fitter for your boots. Evo in Fremont has some good ones. I have Atomic Backland Carbon boots that have been punched and molded to my wide forefoot and high instep. Boot fit is the most critical element of your setup. Do not skip this step. There are a ton of boots out there, I prefer a good range of motion on the cuff in walk mode for hiking, skinning and occasional climbing. I'm a little heavier than you but essentially the same size. My primary BC ski for the last decade are Dynafit Manaslus in a 169cm length with Dynafit Superlite bindings. The bindings can be annoying to some because they don't have a "flat" setting and the heel is always a little elevated when you're skinning. This setup weighs 108 oz per ski. I wouldn't go any lighter personally, these get bossed around in hard conditions. I have a fatter set of touring skis that weigh 166 oz each but are a lot more fun to ski. Lighter skis, boots and bindings are faster on the ascent but can be a liability on the descent. You have to find what works for you.
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[TR] Sherpa Peak - East Ridge 02/05/2022
Bronco replied to Eric Gilbertson's topic in Central/Eastern Washington
These are awesome TR's keep them coming! -
[TR] Forbidden Peak Winter Ascent - West Ridge 01/23/2022
Bronco replied to Eric Gilbertson's topic in North Cascades
Wow, this got my attention! Awesome TR, thanks so much for posting it here! -
[TR] El Dorado - NW Couloir (Attempt) 11/21/2021
Bronco replied to Grant789's topic in North Cascades
Sounds like a standard winter attempt. Routes that go easily in a day in the summer can be way harder and frustrating in the winter. Good job taking advantage of the stable weather over the weekend and thanks for sharing the photos! -
As you are painfully aware, I don't tend to set the pace. It was my much faster partner who was running an ultra marathon a few days later and was super dialed with his climbing kit/fuel/rack.
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Me and a partner were attempting the TFT and took the SE Face of Torment. We had let our guard down after pulling over the 'schrund and were still roped-up while scrambling up the SE face feeling like we'd passed the difficult problems. I don't remember if my partner kicked it off or if it was just the rope dislodging it but a bunch of microwave sized blocks started bouncing down above me. There was nowhere to run without pulling my partner off so I found a tiny little depression close by to press into and pull my pack up to protect my neck. Miraculously the rocks missed me and didn't chop the rope anywhere that we could detect it. I think it shook up my partner more than me, I remember him shouting my name like he wasn't expecting me to still be there with him. We did complete the Traverse quickly enough to get BBQ in Marblemount that evening. So I got that going for me.
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Great photos as usual and good work finding a route without crowds. Like many folks, I had my closest call on Torment with rockfall. I remember saying to myself, "make yourself small, make yourself small" while cowering behind a tiny outcropping with my pack pulled up to cover the back of my neck. Definitely not dad approved.
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[TR] Yellowjacket Tower - Standard - East 09/12/2021
Bronco replied to Grant789's topic in Alpine Lakes
Nice work, how was HWY 2 traffic on the way home? -
I thought new bolts are prohibited in Washington Wilderness areas. Did something recently change?