Bronco

This was a great lineup on Saturday, Scurlock had everyone cracking up, he has a great sense of humor. Videos are up on the NWAC youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXKN3Cu9rnnkukkiUUgjzFQ

found these in the infamous boulder field on the approach to Eldorado in the summer of '13.

There is this report of a different route but I don't know of much else on the interwebs:

Hi Zeno: There are a bunch of routes but the standard route that you attempted is the most straightforward. It's kind of a grind getting up there but a great training hike and scramble at the top. Good job turning around when in doubt. SAR rescued a young man just about a year ago who attempted the peak in similar conditions.

Crazy ending to a great TR!

Now that's extreme alpinism!

Congrats and thanks for the detailed TR! The gear list is a wonderful pot-pori of hardcore minimalism, "one long spoon to share", what if you lost it!?

Wide foot and I like leather shoes without GTX or any membrane as they don't dry or breathe well enough for me. Also, I don't go out when it's wet very much. Here's my last few approach shoes: Past - Scarpa Crux, light weight, fit well, not great for hiking in, thin soles and not much traction. Cheap $ Past - Scarpa Zen Pro, hike real well, great traction, gusseted tongue but fit a little narrow and heavy. Expensive $$$ Current - La Sportiva TX4, fit pretty well, great lacing, seems like a good compromise between the other two. Moderate price and available in high top. I also have some Salewa Rapace boots that are stiffer and heavier than any of these approach shoes but are great as a Cascade Mountain all around boot for 3 seasons. Not quite a full on mountaineering boot but they hike very well with heavier loads, crampon and climb ok. Pretty ideal for a multi-day trip into the Pickets where a lighter boot might not be sufficient.

Great TR and good on you for getting out there despite the smoke. That's a lot of walking for 48 hours!

I googled "definition of 4th class climbing" and this article came up. https://www.summitpost.org/class-four-is-a-myth-problems-in-yds/891794 This is pretty good approach Dru. No easy answers I guess, just try to mitigate risk where you can.

and this one: https://www.seattletimes.com/seattle-news/cashmere-climber-dies-from-injuries-suffered-in-accidental-fall-on-forbidden-peak/ and this one: https://q13fox.com/2018/06/25/seattle-climber-dies-after-falling-down-mount-stuart/ and this one: https://www.kiro7.com/news/local/seattle-man-dies-in-climbing-accident-at-mount-rainier-national-park/814485634 Did we miss any from this year? I think all 4 of these deaths occurred on class 3-4 routes.

Too many deaths on easy terrain lately. I don't know if this is a typical year but hearing about these types of accidents is bugging me more. I think that I've become too complacent in "easy" 3rd and 4th class terrain where a fall will result in serious consequences. Somewhat of an ego issue, I suspect. Just being more aware of the risk is probably a good start. I don't see any old threads on this particular subject but would be interested to see what everyone else has to say about tips on moving quickly and safely. Obviously if you have a partner you can rope up on a kiwi coil and simul but how about solo? What's the best practices there? I found this article interesting and a much more serious approach than what I've become accustomed to. https://www.outdoorresearch.com/blog/article/how-to-move-faster-and-more-safely-through-3rd-and-4th-class-terrain

Second Mt. Pugh (Pew). Good trail to the summit block then some scrambly moves to get up the summit. No crampons needed as of 3 weeks ago. I encountered some snow covering the trail above Stujack that was bypassed thought he brush on the climbers right.

Very cool, thanks for the report.

http://komonews.com/news/nation-world/clackamas-county-sheriffs-office-responds-to-assist-climber-on-mount-hood The video of this is pretty spectacular especially the lift off of the Chinook.

That is crazy!

I'd be willing to bet some busy body noticed the syringe and reported it to the park rangers. They'd have a lot of fun in Everett these days if the presence of a syringe is that big of deal.

I was just looking at your photos again, that really looks like a fun scramble line, kind of like the West Ridge of the N. Twin but chossier and a bit more of an approach.

Looks like a fun romp. Good training to haul a rack and rope and the odor from old rock shoes keeps the bugs at bay. Or maybe attracts them. We drove by Good Food on Fathers day and laughed about our last trip there where my wedding ring fell off into one of the "bathroom" sinks and because there was no stopper, went right down the drain. I retrieved a pair of channel locks from the truck and proceeded to remove the P-trap to find my ring. While reinstalling the P-Trap, I was surprised by someone opening the door and I blurted out "this one is closed for repairs!" as they scurried out. I washed up (and checked for leaks), put the channel locks away and went in to find our table. We laughed when someone at the table next to us was overheard complaining about the crabby a**hole plumber in the bathroom.

I have a pair and they'll be fine on the DC route. Snow balling could be an issue. One other tip is that the cord on the bottom stretched out the first time I used mine and had to be adjusted. Be sure they're adjusted tightly and you shouldn't have an issue.

Funny, I looked at a photo of Dorado Needle for quite a while before posting this. It was the photo for June 2018 on the calendar my accountant gave me this year. The caption just says, "North Cascades - Washington".

Looks super familiar but it must be a weird angle. I can't get it to match up with any photos in my guidebooks. Looks a lot like Boston Basin/Cascade Pass area. mystery peak.pdf

That truck is perfect except for the missing half of the gun rack.

Nice work choss dogs

Glad to hear you'd take a stove next time. Hard to keep reasonably hydrated without one and really cuts your margin for error.