Bronco

Must've missed this the first time around. I think I also climbed with the poster Kainsacad out at Index once with a similar experience. He advertised as a 5.10 climber and struggled mightily to follow a 5.8 and seems to lack some of the basic understanding of belaying and rope handling. There may be a different thread about him, his name is Mehrdad or something like that. Former Iranian army if I recall. Good times!

There's a risk assessment tool used in SAR that is similar to some stuff I've read on go/nogo for alpine activities: Each category (team experience, route planning/knowledge, team fitness, weather, route conditions etc.) gets a green/amber/red grade, any reds must be mitigated or the mission is called off. I know SAR has a different goal than alpine climbing or BC Skiing but I It think something like this can be helpful in a situation where accidents are caused by a series of bad decisions, especially with newbs.

Stairway to Heaven!

Bob - I felt a personal connection through Marc's posting here and am sad about the potential loss of a sincerely nice dude who developed into a pretty good climber right before our eyes. Not everyone has the ability to empathize and there's nothing wrong with that. Gene - Regarding the odds of risk, I believe there are way too many variables in climbing to be able to apply a number with any kind of accuracy.

Is the WDFW intending to avoid conducting meetings anywhere near the majority of the population?

Doesn't sound good but I think they're pretty tough young guys and hopefully just holed up somewhere to ride out the weather.

how about this cautionary tale?

Has anyone of you gomers climbed it yet? Looks like it was finished in September. Seems a little more doable than Infinite Bliss for us "off the couch" guys and going to the Old Schoolhouse for dinner is always a bonus. Does anyone have a topo? https://www.climbing.com/places/flyboys-washingtons-18-pitch-5-9-sport-route/

Love this photo. Why, what did they say when you stopped to ask them why they bivied there?

Wow, awesome photos and great job with the climb you guys!

I'm not available Saturday but I think your attention to detail is impressive!

Like most others here, I just use common sense, drink straight from small streams and filter where I think it could be impacted. On longer trips, I'll carry actual soap for washing hands and a half dozen Imodium pills. Giardi cleanse be damned!

Jason, I think a conditions report for each region would turn out to be the busiest and most entertaining threads here.

I believe a lot of us OG's have gotten more experienced and less interested in posting about every exploit in the outdoors. If there's already multiple well written and photographed TR's on a certain route, I know I'm more reluctant to put up another one with less gooder grammar and cell phone pics. Also, just gettin older, get out less, and care less about posting. I try to put up my best climb of each year but that's about it.

how about this one?

At least the rain tomorrow should mush out any instability below 10,000'. Date Olympics Northwest Cascades Northeast Cascades Central Cascades South Cascades Easterly Flow in Passes Friday Morning Snow Level 5000' 4500' 4000' 4500' 5000' Friday Afternoon Snow Level 4500' 4500' 4500' 4500' 4500' Friday Night Snow Level 6000' 4000' 4000' 4500' 6000' Saturday Morning Snow Level 7500' 5500' 5000' 6500' 8000' Saturday Afternoon Snow Level 8000' 7500' 6500' 7500' 9000' Saturday Night Freezing Level 10500' 10000' 7000' 9000' 11000'

More time in the mountains with the bros, less time working/stressing.

Nice job taking advantage of the weather!

How about this one:

Sumitted Terror in 9 hours from the car? Did I read that right? If so, I am clearly doing something very wrong. Nice work you guys and thanks for posting the TR and photos!

Very strong work John, Oly and Porter! I must confess, I looked at the website a couple of times yesterday morning thinking that it was down again (sigh) before I realized it was just a new, awesome website!

I liked Hayden after reading this article on him. https://www.outsideonline.com/1896531/chopped Really sad to think about the torment he experienced that would drive him to take his own life.

I guess that's one good thing about not being able to copy and paste, it blocks the spammers! haha!

I don't know if this helps, Steve, but I've been a long time Scarpa boot wearer and just accepted heel blisters as the price to pay for the wider toe box. My understanding is the Sportiva lasts are typically a little narrower and certainly could have a better fit on your heel. I picked up a pair of Salewa Rapace this summer and they seem to have a better heel hold, no blisters.

Stumbled onto this website this week. Loads of good information on diet, supplements etc. Found some of the advice helpful: http://www.climbingnutrition.com