texplorer

Thread drift. Please not another snaffle debate. We here at the Royal Chestbeater Society are for the protection of the snaffle but are not opposed to harvesting snaffle's where they are overpopulating the area (ex. Boston Basin and Mt. Slesse). Lets get back on topic!!!

That's a great idea. I talk to our sponsor and see.

Her Majesty's Royal Climber Chestbeater Society is now opening up nominations for the 2003 Summer Chestbeater Awards. This summer we have several new categories in addition to our usual ones. Remember all nominations must be self nominations. Here are the categories- 1) Best Individual Overall Chestbeater : Submit your own climbing related achievements from May 1 to Aug 30. Include ratings, lengths of climbs, # beers involved, sexual acts engaged in upon climbs, rescues, etc. 2) Best Group Chestbeat : Same as individual beat-0ff except with your friends during a single even during the summer. 3) Best Single Chestbeat Event : Submit your account of a single event involving a climbing related activity. 4) NEW!!! Lifetime Chestbeat Award : Do you know someone who has been beating off for years. Now is you chance to honor them and their chestbeats. 5) NEW!!! Best Chestbeat involving Cougars, Snaffehounds, and Horsecock : This one should be obvious. We would like to thank our major sponsor: Scotteryx Cougar Bait Inc. Tune in at the end of the summer when Jon Kraukaur and a one-armed "Climber" present this years' winners.

I will tell you where the worst unclimbed lines are. PM me $50 ($.50 american) and a 6er of stout.

This story would have been more cool if "satin" would have possessed you to kick off a huge boulder onto your partner below or push one of the portlanders off the 1500ft cliff. Ah well, I guess I'll settle for a usual chestbeat. Good job bro- way to get out there.

Supreme Cuddos Dru, Fern, Capt C. It takes alot of fortitude to climb that much "grass and fifth class." Hey that sounds like a good route name. What are you guys going to call your new thrutchfest anyway?

Doug and the rest, I am concerned about bolting at the butte but am currently living in Eugene and will not make it to your discussion. Please cast a vote from me for no new bolts of any kind. There are plenty of natural anchors there and bolted anchors, while convenient and useful, are unnecessary. Please keep the crags from becoming outdoor climbing gyms. Thanks, The Texplorer

100% agree Erik. Climbing is not about thinking too much. Once you can get your shit dialed and not have to think you'll start sendin. I wish people would stop contemplating climbing a 5.whatever and just give it a shot. So what if you don't get the "onsite." Just admit your too scared and go back to bouldering or ski-mountaineering easy dog routes.

Slesse- had to be a f@#$in canadian peak.

Or you could put up a new route on Slesse. . . . .

I must agree with Daler. By tying in with a clove you waste all of about 3 inches of rope (about 8cm for Canadians). Also, if your leader can't hang on whilst you take them off belay for the last 3 feet of rope then they can take a 6 foot longer whipper. Unless I am just misunderstanding you, dru, I cordially disagree.

I forget some of you on here have jobs and such.

Surprised I haven't heard about the desert chimneys -Kor/Ingals on Castleton -The Priest -Lightening bolt cracks -Sister superior Almost all the desert towers have chimneys come to think of it.

Yea, if that guy is such a good climber, why is laying the split pillar back on the pic in the "50 favorite climbs" book? That thing is a total straight in crack.

Where is "goodtimes"???

Nothing that a few copperheads, hooks and pitons could deal with . . . .

We can't officially give you the sea-to-summit badge but sounds like a gnarly day with an exponential amount of slog. I have always thought it would be cool to climb hood, roadbike down to hood river, windsurf, run the little white, cycle to beacon, climb at beacon, sea kayak the columbia, and get drunk off on Lucky lab stout. Then I thought that sounded kind of stupid and so I just go climbing at lamo overbolted places like flagstone.

I've been off route. All this time I've been climbing bolted crack near a river with DFA and non-topless hippie chicks about.

So if I take the cat up and then climb the Black Spider, is it a real ascent of the black spider or am I a peak bagger?

Redoubt, Thanks for your insights. You are definetely correct about the "so far so good" bit. I was implying something slightly different, although after reading my post didn't truly portray what I was thinking. As of late I have been sticking to strictly vertical climbing on good rock. In fact since YR with TG I have only done one alpine climb since. When I said, "so good so far" I suppose I should have said something more along the lines of, "thank god I haven't killed myself in the learning process." Many young climbers feel that they need to somehow prove themselves or show that they are skilled. As a beginner I know that I was like this and was so anxious to get experience. I was very reluctant to EVER turn around because I saw it as a kind of weakness or inadequacy in my abilities. As a result I progressed and did get alot of good experience. Luckily I gained just enough technical skill and was just plain lucky enough to be tempered by the fire yet come out unscathed. I feel comfortable in many mediums of climbing now and definetely don't feel I have anything to prove to other climbers now. Nevertheless I still find myself pushing the limits from time to time. After thinking about my experience with TG on YR I have changed my attitude in several ways. First, we had never climbed together before. I know I had (and still have) alot of respect for TG and didn't want to let him down. I don't think that starting the climb was unreasonable given the fact that we were not sure what the route would be like in that situation. As we ascended I did not feel that climbing was all that scary or difficult until I led that horrendous pitch of the first gendarme. That IS where I made the biggest mistake. When I started climbing up and all kinds of shit was coming off I should have downclimbed off and retreated. Instead I carried on with my familiar mantra -it'll get better up just a little higher. Well, as you know it didn't. By the time the keg sized block came off I was commited and basically out of gear. It was a scary dance with the reaper that pitch and I am glad I pulled it off. When I made the anchor the climbing looked easy going on the next pitch. Little did I know it was all stacked choss.(Yes, more chossy than the normal Oregon choss) I think that TG was thinking the same -it'll get easier just a little further- as he waded across the vertical stacks of crumbs. Once he returned, we were left with no option but to retreat but I felt just as much danger going down as I had going up. My opinion after the fact is that we were unwise in our decision to attempt the climb when it was clearly out of season. That being said, I don't think it was unreasonable to think that we could climb it and I still think it can be climbed in those conditions (just not the first gendarme). I still have little respect for Smoot's opinion of the climb. It is, contrary to words, a reasonable route (in season) but does have long sections where pro will be marginal. Perhaps this year we will return to savor this prized route in better conditions. In the mean time I must be happy with one of my most glorious defeats.

Texplorer's Recommendations on climbing The Leaning Tower Day 1 1) observe gumbie parties with binocs leaving cams on route. Day 2 2) rack up only aliens, a few BDs, and cam hooks 3) get alpine start, short fix, no haulbag 4) booty lots of gear, drink water left by gumbies 5) top out and head down to the pizza deck by evening Day 3 1) put sign up at Camp 4 board "selling 2 new cam" 2) use money for more pizza and King Cobras

I guess you WA folk can't continue claiming that you have the sickest and the most difficult approaches anymore

Stop visiting porno sites

I have climbed at Smith this time of year. Its not too bad but then again I'm from warmer clims anyway. That is sweet that Madrone is open. I may have to make a visit soon.

My bad then to Senor Natedog, Flagstone is a little over an hours drive to the east of Eugene. Still marginally attractive to someone living in Portland since you could be at Smith in the same amount of time.