texplorer

Yeah, I can't tell you how many "fixed" pink tri-cams I have clipped - testament to their holding power, even if it is offset by their difficulty in removal after they catch your ass. The point is: they caught your ass I can't tell you how many "fixed" pink tricams I have sitting home on my booty rack.

I have climbed in Yosemite, the Utah Desert, and other trad destinations and I find the ratings on Castle rock to be slightly sandbagged compared to YOSEMITE where the rating system originated and should (IMHO) be set by. As you get into the harder grades they numbers tend to get more correct. For instance I thought Supercrack was not that hard for being a .12. The first time I did Damnation Crack I thought it was a little hard for 5.9 or whatever but probably is a .10a or something around there.

Sweet pics Crackman. Another climb I wish I could have been on.

Macymera's Yos Big Walls Smoot's Climbing Oregons Cascades Watt's Smith guide Nelson's Cascade Select Portland Rock Climbs Yosemite Free Climbs

twight says,"water is life." I sometimes think Ian has the right idea though - defeat is life.

If you throw in an 8th for smokin up in the hut its a deal

I jest alot about chopping bolts and stuff but in reality I have placed more bolts than I have chopped. Flagstone however really gets me outraged. I am very tempted to go do something about it.. .

A real hardman wouldn't need the skis!

I learned to climb .10 cracks on a .9ish crack in the gym. They are not reality but it is possible to learn to climb cracks in the gym. As for Yaniro, I have heard good things about him but then again who cares about other climbers.

Amen Mossman

Me either, headin down on Wed. The Vallley!!!!!!

I guess you would just be a dehydrated kiwi in some hippie's trail mix. 90 C is close to 200 Farenheit. Damn I'm a nerd to know this shit.

If it was 91 degrees CENTIGRADE I wouldn't have to "fuck you" you would be fucked already.

shut it wrangler! Alright ya old-growth logger.

Yok can be done in fall, summer whenever. It'll just be hard to do that first gendarme. The rest of the route looks pedestrian but then I guess I won't know until I do it. Maybe this summer sometime.

You NW losers don't know what hot is.

I agree with Mike. The more static the rope the faster and easier it is to haul but just make sure you don't drop the bag and shock the anchors. I have hauled with both and its not that bad hauling with a dynamic.

I suggest a summer attempt of Yokum including the first gendarme. More classic non-intentional trundling to be had up there too.

Why not climb from sea level. That was my point. Some people make fun of Cat riders while they still drive up to timberline. I don't admit to being holier than anyone. If you really get down to it the most sporting way to climb a mountain is from sea level, with no gear except what you can find in nature like a stick or something. Oh, and you must at least start the climb butt-naked and maybe kill some raccoons and oppossums to make yourself a furr coat or nab some ducks to make your own down jacket. Now that would be in the finest style.

Beer Goggles = always the best

With the proliferation of retro-bolters these days rebolting and putting up new safer lines I propose the development of a new organization to steady the tide of safe climbing. After all, think about how well have to change all the guidebooks in a few year's by having to take out the mandatory first page (Rock climbing is inherently dangerous. . . blah blah blah)' Lets make climbing scary again! I am currently working with the International Snafflehound Society board of trustees to develop this new organization. I haven't come up with a suitable name yet but the general idea is to go and chop bolts on reasonably bolted routes. We could start with the chopping the 3rd bolt making the clip on the 1st, 2nd, and 4th bolts a possible deck potential. Then we could move on to anchors. Chopping the beefy anchors and maybe putting in a star-bolt. Of course there would be the total choppage of stupidly bolted routes too. If any of you have any rusty pitons, old star-bolts, homemade angle iron anchor setups please contact me. We are also looking for a representative for the WA area. All inquirys are welcome. Tell us what you think!

So your saying they have added bolts to the line!!!!

I tend to have views of both sides on this issue. You could probably ride a snowmobile the entire way to the summit of hood, st helens, adams, raineer, etc. For some people just getting to the top and going through some sort of ordeal is what they seek in "climbing" a mountain. I would like to think that we "taditional climbers," as men and women of the NW, understand something that the touron climbers do not. That is that the achieving the summit is only the icing on a multi-tiered cake. Personnally I am not too big on icing anyway. Climbing in the tradition of the great climbers and adventurers of the past, is the spirit of pushing yourself to new boundaries on the mountain or rocks terms in a style that is sporting and challenging. For some that may be riding the cat. For those of you that diss these people I understand that you don't want your achievements to be lumped into the same category as the gumbies who ride the cat and make the summit. Even though the lower slopes are moderate and groomed they definetely take energy out of you and add to your time on the mountain. I personally walk cause I am a poor climber who can't afford the cat. If you really want to know I think most of the popular routes on hood are a joke. No, I haven't made the slog more than 10 times and haven't climbed the black spider yet. How hard can mountain be if I can come straight from the flatlands of texas and climb the mountain with rental gear and a few pages from the smoot book. I have now done six routes on the mountain and still I don't really know anything about mountaineering except don't go when the weather is bad, the route is not in season, or if a helicopter is coming to rescue idiots. Climb in whatever style you want but don't forget to put the * denoting that you were lazy and rode half way up the mountain. Ultimately you should climb for yourself or for the mags. If you are climbing for the mags be sure not to send them the pics of you riding next to a middle-aged fat women in the cat sipping a frappachino. Cheers wankers.

It is very sad and sobering when anyone dies in an accident but somehow I feel especially vunerable when competent climbers experience accidents in places and on routes which I know and have done. Cliche-ishly we can all learn from others mistakes but I would rather we just never make them. It is too easy for us to say "that'll never be me" when gumbies make mistakes but this shows we must all be vigilant in your safety. . . . .I cannot summon the correct words today. . . ... . be safe friends.