texplorer

Three Things that better not happen cause of the "War." A) Me or my belay partners getting drafted (this will result in time lost from climbing in my prime years) B)The bombing of any good climbs or mountains C)The govt seizing up all the aircraft grade aluminum used to make my fine pro Feel free to add to the list if you wish

Just run it out.

For a bunch of guys who spray so much and talk so much crap about these mags you all seem to know exactly what the most current issues have in them. If they were really as bad as you say they are you wouldn't even give them a second look. When was the last time you just casually browsed through a better housekeeping. The truth is for the most part climbing is about the experience for most of us. That being so, we still compare ourselves to the rest of the world. Those mags with 120lb skeletor types pulling wicked problems can be disconcerting or motivational depending on how you look at it. In my experience most sport related magazines are created for the novice to the sport and/or the armchair athlete. To us they may be crap but to a 12 yr old boy they may be really interesting. I know when I was getting into climbing I poured through those things and they helped me dream about becoming a great climber. Anyway that's my two cents-

Jim, I think the highest point to bivy would be right at the notch. When we did the climb about 3-4 weeks ago there a few guys who tried to go up further. We saw them the next morning on a 45 degree slope, hooked in with their harnesses on the north face. It looked like it really sucked. I didn't see any other suitable sites up higher than the notch.

I would recommend the tallest doc martins you can find. They may seem clunky but when you see those gothic girls on the trail you'll be the s#$%t mountain boy.

Steven, I have to agree with you on difficulty of the climb. I did it about 3 weeks before you did. I really enjoyed climbing on good rock but we pretty much simul-climbed the whole thing. The exception is the Gendarme. The 5.9 that they list must be a fred beckey 5.9 (5.10 for the rest of us). There is one short section of off-width after a short traverse to the right. Tricky, but loads of fun.

This is sounding like a classic sausage fest!

Good point Marty, Looks like you have done some sick routes. I'm not quite as experienced and am limited to mainly Oregon as far as climbing but here's my fav's so far. Sport -Vomit Launch - Smith Trad -Moonshine Dihedral - Smith Alpine Rock -N Ridge - Stuart Alpine climb -Jefferson Park Glacier - Jefferson

I've got two words for your gear woes my friend. -PRO DEAL Yes, quit your job for that start-up and go to work at a gear store or climbing gym. You'll get almost all your gear at half price. The down side - you eat ramen every day and have to hitchhike to the crag. . . .but you'll have sweet gear!

Isn't it interesting how everyone has bias' toward the crags they have climbed at the most. Perhaps that is where they ticked their first 5.10, .11, or .12 and they have special feelings for those climbs and areas. Lots of factors play into the mix. eh

Your were bit lucky on the rock. Let's hope the sprays that are sure to follow have as docile a bite as the rock had upon you. PS I have done something similar before. Scare the crap out of you!

What is the date and time on the class?

In my experience the biggest talkers are the worst climbers.

Found a couple short pitches of ice in Snowqualamie this weekend. I am not a great judge of vertical ice but it was climbable and plastic since it wasn't in the sun. I think this year the area has different conditions due to lack of normal snowfall levels. I am sure one of the guys I climbed with will be one sometime later today to give a little more in depth beta. Seize the Day

So I have studied axes in the catalogs for a while now. I am new to this stuff so I wanted to know what you guys think are THE best tools to buy for vertical ice and also what would be best for steep mountaineering routes.