texplorer

1)Split Beaver at Squish 2)Classic Crack at Broughton 3)Approach to Slesse

Oh, and the best rock climbing in p-town is at BEACON.

The lucky lab is the shizzle if you like stout. Of course it is a lycra free zone, hence DFA's disdain of aforementioned abode.

Craig, I have never seen anyone really put the two biners on a bolt. Since bolt ladders are usually secure, most climbers backclean the crap out of them. It makes your second's life easier and faster. I would also recommend using an adustable daisy as opposed to the old school fifi. They are much more convenient and require less muscle.

Senor Layton, You should also explore Portland's vast array of stip clubs to, of course, bone up on your anatomy for chiropractic school.

I hear that vulture ridge at smith has some bomber granite.

1) Astroman 2) Stuart w/ gendarme (solo) 3) Get into med school 4) Climb a .13 crack (someday)

Sphinx, I don't have any hard evidence but I do know that not all cams have the same lobes. I believe this is due to wild country patenting the shape of their cams. I could be wrong on that though.

I agree with your points Matt. The "fast and light" style should only be taken on by those experienced and fully aware of that which they are undertaking. Adventure is different for everyone. I suppose that my idea of what is an adventure has even changed over time as I have improved my skills and knowledge. I still like to hear how fast people can do things even if they are self-promoting snobs. My favorite climbers are the ones that can do it all but don't spray to the world about it but its fun to read about the leo holdings of the world too. hasta-

MattP, I respectfully disagree about the advertising thing. I think that what has happened in climbing is that all or most of the moderately accessible great climbs have been plucked by the likes of Beckey and others. Yes I know that there are probably great climbs way off in the middle of nowhere but that is not the point. The common public will never know or care if you find a perfect handcrack 20 miles off the main road in a tangle of devils' club. The 80's brought sport climbing and bolts but most of those "good" lines have been plucked as well. Today's generation of climber's has little left as far as first ascents. I haven't heard of any new snow creek walls or godzilla's poping up recently. The fact is that this generation has discovered that "speed" climbing routes in amazingly fast times is their small claim to fame. The true old skoolers probably thought the that the whole sport craze was just a marketing craze to get women and yellow climbers to buy mags, gear, and prana clothing. Climbing fast and light is more dangerous and riskier but then again why even climb if you want safety and comfort. I think about the pioneers of climbing in yosemite and other places. They knew what they were doing was dangerous and that they were pushing the limits. The limits have changed today with modern gear and knowledge but, in my mind, the true climber still seeks that adventure that the early hardmen sought. It is not so much as reaching the top, or climbing a harder grade as it is an adventure. Today the way we seek adventures noone else has experienced is to do the same routes taking only the barest of necessities. I personally take no first aid gear and do not own a tent. You may call me foolhardy and I may be but that is adventure to me where the stakes are real but the payoff is large. Oh, and I don't wear a helmet unless there are other dumbasses above me that are taking days to do the climb and can drop crap on me.

Sphinx you are only partially correct. The curvature of the cam lobes provides different holding power at different angles. At the proper camming range the lobes press outward but as you move away from that range the angle of force on the rock will change slightly. When cams are severaly overcammed they have less holding power and a quick jerk can dislodge them before the springs in the cam have time to react. One side not- Metolious this next year is going to start putting dots on their cam lobes so newbies and those of you that have never learned will know when a cam is properly placed.

Many great points here. I agree with TG about the exponential increase in speed with drop in weight. It is really pretty unbelievable what you can do. And . .yes to go fast you have to be solid enough to solo sections of easier terrain. I don't know who the original post was mocking but you must know when you go fast you are taking a higher risk usually in order to do a climb in a certain style. Sometimes that makes the climb easier and sometimes its just a one day sufferfest instead of a 3-4 day one.

1) Onsighting the Grand Wall 2) Finishing a Year of Physics 3) Climbing the Nose in a Day

Does this go in the freshiez forum?

I'll be arriving in the valley on the 16 and staying for at least 10 days, maybe more if I can find a ride up later. I too want to get on a wall-maybe mescalito. I don't own a haul bag or ledge but have a bitchin rack. I am also interested in doing the Trip, Zodiac, or other stuff "in a push" style. I also wouldn't mind getting on the Rostrum and separate reality.

...

What gets ya hard? Were climbers - the answer is "your hand"

I have taken tons of falls on my aliens. I agree with Lummox that as long as they still work smoothly they stay in use. PS I have cams on my rack that I have found at the base of el cap. They work great and have held falls.

Found two cheap cams and quickdraws on the nose in a crack not two feet from a burly two bolt anchor.

I have spent over a month down there a few years ago. If your heading down anytime around new years or christmas the place will be packed with literally hundreds of climbers. There are lots of cool climbs there but the most unique are the long moderate (easy .10) sport routes. The most popular as mentioned above are snott girlz, space boyz, and yankee clipper. There are also two twin spires that are fun. The mota wall has the largest number of high quality climbs in the .10 to .11 range but be careful since it is directly under the snott Girlz route which loose rocks come off of almost daily. I will most likely be headed there this winter also with the masses. It's pretty easy to figure things out once your there but your biggest challenge will be finding some place not crowded. Have fun and let me know if you have any specific questions.

My fav is handcracks going out big roofs or overhanging splitters in general.

Check out this aerial View of the fire

Anyone planning on staying at Smith for an extended time period anytime soon? I am free for a few months but don't have money to go anywhere cool. Just wondering what the non-working class is up to these days.

I doubt it. She was actually a pretty tuff girl but didn't like it when I went to yos this summer and only spent two days with her there -the rest climbing. You can be a part time climber but not a part-time boyfriend.

MFace is a great climb. I did pull a bolt on the A0 going to the mouth last year. When I reached down to unclip my aider the bolt just came right out. Someone did a shitty job of bolting those homemade jobs. Monkey Space is good too. I whipped on it last year and ripped my ex-gf into the rock giving her some nice bloody knuckles. Ahhh climbing