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#1023902 - 06/28/11 11:41 AM [TR] Mt. Rainier - Ptarmigan Ridge 6/25-27/2011
danhelmstadter Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 08/22/07
Posts: 409
TRs: 88 Photos: 22
Loc: pnw
Trip: Mt. Rainier - Ptarmigan Ridge

Date: 6/25-27/2011

Trip Report:
On June 26, Pete Hirst, Eric Wehrly and I climbed and skied a variation of the Ptarmigan Ridge route on Mt. Rainier.
We approached via the Mowich Lake road the day before, there were some navigation difficulties due to variable snow cover and thick marine clouds.
The lower portion of the route held variable crusty snow and led to a traverse of a mixed ice/snow shelf. We traversed the shelf to an very exposed ice step, (Pete thought it was alpine ice 3+). We free soloed the step to gain Liberty Cap glacier, and made haste to clear a zone that posed a hazard of serac fall. We roped up and weaved our way up the heavily broken glacier, crossing several dicey snow bridges, one of which we belayed, protecting with a ski anchor. High and mid level clouds had rolled in and blocked the sun (the day had been forecasted to be sunny), we topped out on liberty cap chilled and worked.
Ski conditions on the upper portion of the route were as to be expected for the raindawg -- variable ice/powder/crusts, the highlight being a section of steep powder midway down the tongue of the Liberty Cap glacier.
On the way up Pete had installed a v-thread at the top of the ice step, and we backed it up with a screw then rapped the ice step. After traversing the mixed ice/snow shelf - we clicked into ski is. I had some doubt that the steep lower slope would not soften since the clouds had blocked the sun and FR levels were only forecasted to hover around 10k... But the lower slope was good enough, definitely on the firm side for the top half, then softening nicely lower down.
We were stoked, but a little dehydrated, and drank like fish when we found a seep on our way back to camp.



scouting bivy


E MONEY back in the hood.


money




Emoney ready to rap, Pete starting traverse


Pete


thanks fellas







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#1023904 - 06/28/11 11:58 AM Re: [TR] Mt. Rainier - Ptarmigan Ridge 6/25-27/2011 [Re: danhelmstadter]
dberdinka Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 11/29/00
Posts: 2102
TRs: 39 Photos: 571
Loc: Bellingham
BOLD!!!
_________________________
You will do foolish things, but do them with enthusiasm!

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#1023910 - 06/28/11 12:10 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Rainier - Ptarmigan Ridge 6/25-27/2011 [Re: danhelmstadter]
Dane Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 01/11/03
Posts: 3097
TRs: 12 Photos: 138
Loc: Issaquah
Well done!
_________________________
www.coldthistle.blogspot.com

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#1023914 - 06/28/11 12:22 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Rainier - Ptarmigan Ridge 6/25-27/2011 [Re: danhelmstadter]
Feck Offline

Spray Master

Registered: 11/08/00
Posts: 11214
TRs: 67 Photos: 897
Loc: Seattle, WA
That's awesome guys rocken
_________________________
http://symbiosistree.com/index.html

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#1023918 - 06/28/11 12:41 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Rainier - Ptarmigan Ridge 6/25-27/2011 [Re: danhelmstadter]
dougd Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/03/07
Posts: 710
TRs: 4 Photos: 99
Loc: Spokane
Very nice!

d

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#1023920 - 06/28/11 01:09 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Rainier - Ptarmigan Ridge 6/25-27/2011 [Re: danhelmstadter]
ryanl Offline
member

Registered: 05/31/05
Posts: 176
TRs: 19 Photos: 424
Loc: shoreline
Way to go you guys! Looks like full on alpine adventure....

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#1023923 - 06/28/11 01:22 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Rainier - Ptarmigan Ridge 6/25-27/2011 [Re: danhelmstadter]
spionin Offline
the reverend

Registered: 03/10/08
Posts: 473
TRs: 26 Photos: 443
Loc: seattle, wa
unbelievable.
amazing!
_________________________
mountain softwoman

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#1023930 - 06/28/11 01:29 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Rainier - Ptarmigan Ridge 6/25-27/2011 [Re: danhelmstadter]
KaskadskyjKozak Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 04/23/04
Posts: 16385
TRs: 86 Photos: 760
Loc: Above Treeline

Spectacular!
_________________________
Stay frosty

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#1023980 - 06/28/11 03:39 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Rainier - Ptarmigan Ridge 6/25-27/2011 [Re: danhelmstadter]
lunger Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/18/02
Posts: 368
TRs: 12 Photos: 131
Loc: see atoll
Great pics, Dan!! This was a fantastic climb. Thanks for writing up our trip--I also put up some pics over here: http://skisickness.com/post/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=252

Unfortunately didn't get many skiing pics.

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#1023985 - 06/28/11 04:03 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Rainier - Ptarmigan Ridge 6/25-27/2011 [Re: danhelmstadter]
Kyle_Flick Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 12/23/00
Posts: 313
TRs: 17 Photos: 17
Loc: Cashmere,Washington,USA
Congrats Dan, Pete and Eric! Is this a first ski descent of Ptarmigan Ridge?

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#1023990 - 06/28/11 04:30 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Rainier - Ptarmigan Ridge 6/25-27/2011 [Re: danhelmstadter]
Riley81 Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 06/25/07
Posts: 204
TRs: 14 Photos: 522
Loc: Seattle, WA
Way to get it!
That's a scary looking traverse eek
_________________________
"Pound a pin save some skin" TA

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#1023991 - 06/28/11 04:33 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Rainier - Ptarmigan Ridge 6/25-27/2011 [Re: danhelmstadter]
cam yarder Offline
journeyman

Registered: 05/02/11
Posts: 77
TRs: 2 Photos: 12
Loc: Seattle
SO RAD

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#1023996 - 06/28/11 05:28 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Rainier - Ptarmigan Ridge 6/25-27/2011 [Re: danhelmstadter]
TrogdortheBurninator Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 04/02/04
Posts: 1931
TRs: 20 Photos: 101
Loc: no longer between Ricks and th...
Wow!!!
_________________________
"Burninating the Country Side, Burninating the Peasants"

http://www.zclipped.com

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#1023998 - 06/28/11 05:37 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Rainier - Ptarmigan Ridge 6/25-27/2011 [Re: TrogdortheBurninator]
Stefan Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 04/16/01
Posts: 2173
TRs: 7 Photos: 9
Loc: the circus
nuts and balls!
_________________________
Namaste - Whatever your outer appearance, I see and greet the soul in you.

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#1024003 - 06/28/11 05:58 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Rainier - Ptarmigan Ridge 6/25-27/2011 [Re: danhelmstadter]
Pete_H Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 04/20/09
Posts: 2542
TRs: 7 Photos: 186
Loc: Der
Dan and Eric are badasses for sure. One minor correction, I thought the ice crux was 2+, though, not 3+.

Awesome experience. Thanks again!

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#1024057 - 06/29/11 12:03 AM Re: [TR] Mt. Rainier - Ptarmigan Ridge 6/25-27/2011 [Re: danhelmstadter]
downey Offline
member

Registered: 11/22/10
Posts: 106
TRs: 5 Photos: 70
Loc: Bellingham, WA
sooo badass! super inspiring! nice work and TR

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#1024096 - 06/29/11 09:58 AM Re: [TR] Mt. Rainier - Ptarmigan Ridge 6/25-27/2011 [Re: danhelmstadter]
mountainsloth Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/03/07
Posts: 768
TRs: 25 Photos: 568
Loc: Seatte, WA
Pete and crew, ya'll are beasts!

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#1024100 - 06/29/11 10:09 AM Re: [TR] Mt. Rainier - Ptarmigan Ridge 6/25-27/2011 [Re: danhelmstadter]
cbcbd Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 01/12/08
Posts: 420
TRs: 13 Photos: 261
Loc: seattle
daaamn!

rawk
_________________________
-Doug Seitz

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