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Riley81

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Everything posted by Riley81

  1. Copper-Fernow traverse

    Anyone who’s traversed the ridge from Fernow to Copper care to share some route info. I have found a lot of questions about it, but not much solid info. I am wondering about the portion included in the attached photo.
  2. Copper-Fernow traverse

    Jeez, coming from you I don’t like the sound of sketch balls. Do you anything about rock quality along the east ridge climb of Fernow?
  3. Copper-Fernow traverse

    We’ll at least it isn’t covered with gendarmes. I’ve seen one trip report on here, but it seemed rather odd because the person described lots of difficulties on the way there, with rappels, but no difficulties on the way back. Do you know anyone who’s done it?
  4. Very good condition touring setup, all last years models, used only 5 times, mostly in bounds. 176 CM Black Diamond Link 90 skis DIAMIR VIPEC 12 TUV bindings La Sportiva Sidrel 2.0 Mens size 28 Black DIamond Glidelite Mix STD skins (Cut to fIt) $1200 OBO Sold as package only PM to make an offer
  5. [TR] Dome Peak - Three Fingers, No Lube 6/29/2016

    I would say doing Dome and Sinister together in a day is easier if you come in from the East and approach through the Gunsight notch. The Chickamin glacier is amazing!
  6. Check it out CC.comers! I am proud to announce that Everett Washington will continue to have a Climbing Gym in the heart of Downtown!!! My Company Summit Everett will be taking over the Cascade Crags facility and keeping it going for all of the residents of Snohomish county. Vertical World is on there way out and we plan on revitalizing the facility and opening it back up for the local climbing community in January 2016! Summit Everett is a small company owned by three local climbers who want to give an establishment that we have loved for many years a fresh new look and keep it open for the local climbing community. Check out our expanding website and leave your email so we can keep you informed with great deals and all the improvements we are planning for the Summit Everett Facility, or check us out on Facebook, give us a like, and share with your friends. We will be posting regular updates or our progress as we work hard to make Summit Everett an amazing place for the local climbing community! Climb Local!! Summit Everett
  7. Cool! Gonna have to check that spot out soon.
  8. Nice! is you ever want to part with that pan let me know. I'll give it a good home, and the rock looks sweet!
  9. Thanks for the TR shappart. Love the tamale pie pan and that rock looks sweet! Is that all limestone?
  10. [TR] Sherpa Peak - North Ridge 8/23/2015

    Nice work finishing of the Stuart range.
  11. [TR] Mt Slesse - NE Buttress 8/7/2015

    Our own little piece of The Valley in the good old NW. Are all the ledges sticky too?
  12. Trip: Mount Rainier - Liberty Ridge Date: 6/9/2015 Trip Report: June 9 and 10 Mike Rynkiewicz and I (Daniel Coltrane) climbed Liberty Ridge. With a solid weather window and slightly decreasing temperatures we found good conditions on the ridge with slightly soft snow and small sections of exposed glacial ice in the upper portions of the route. A good boot pack was in place so we were able to follow previous parties for the majority of the route. The route currently stays close to the ridge the whole way skirting the upper ice face on climbers right. Short sections of low angle ice were encountered just above the black pyramid and just below Liberty Cap. Plenty of rock is exposed on the lower ridge and the carbon glacier is close to separating from the ridge at the current access point low on the ridge. Our initial plan was to climb to Thumb Rock the first day, but with the site currently in horrible condition, due to avalanche debris and continuous rockfall, and no visible bivy sites I am glad we elected to camp at Curtis Ridge and climb Liberty Ridge in one push. It made for a big day, but upon arriving at Thumb rock and having two rocks roll through in the 10 minutes we were there I was happy about the decision. Mike enjoying a little shade at the Curtis ridge Camp The ridge. Early morning crevasse crossing on the Carbon. Sunrise on Thumb rock. Thumb rock campsite remnants. If you want to bivy here expect to put in some work making a descent site. The ranger said previous parties had built walls around there sites. I saw no evidence of anybody doing any development so it must have been obliterated since. Mike sending the last bit of the ice face above the black pyramid. We took the shortest route through the exposed ice but still found thin snow over underlying glacial ice. Getting ready to send the last technical section to gain Liberty Cap. From here we slogged it out to the summit since Mike had never been. Not coming back here for a while, of course this will not be the first time I have said that. Sunset on Rainier from Paradise. Gear Notes: 5 screws and 2 pickets Approach Notes: Accessed the ridge from the west side. Glacier crossings were in good shape.
  13. Looks like we got a name theme going. Strong work fellas! I will be checking that out for sure.
  14. Trip: Dragontail Peak - Gerber-Sink Date: 4/4/2015 Trip Report: Ryan Hoover and I climbed the Gerber-Sink route by the most obvious path; Straight up the white streak and left at the fin. It was a very direct and enjoyable route. We started from the trailhead at 2:45 AM and started climbing at 6:45 AM. Hit the summit at 10:30 AM after climbing the route in two long simul blocks. After a nice break on a windless summit we headed down Asgard back to our wonderful shoes at the lake and were back at the car at 3:45 PM for a nice 13 hour round trip. Conditions were amazing and the mixed pitches just below the fin were adequately protected. Just save a #2 or #3 camalot for the crux in the second section of mixed climbing. Getting ready for the sunrise start. Ryan heading up the start of the route on nice ice and snice. Cruising the huge simul block that took us up about 1600-1800 feet of the face. So many good sections of ice chimneys. More Ice Chimneys! Can you say more ice chimneys. Ice chimneys! Ice chimney close-up. This was the first belay after we ran out of gear. It was at the bottom of the snow field below the fin. Cruising the second block below the fin. From here you keep going up through the gully that funnels you up and left to the third couloir on the TC route. The first of the two more difficult mixed sections. Getting er' done! Looking down at Colchuck lake from between the two mixed sections. Working the crux mixed section. We guessed it was about M4ish. Good gear is to be had in a hand crack on the right face. Which also provided good hand jams to compensate for the super thin neve on the slab. Stoked to be at the end of the third couloir! Relaxing and hydrating on the summit. We took advantage of the windless conditions and hung out for a half hour or so. Summit Pano. Mt. Stuart with its North Ridge standing proud. Witches Tower Conditions are great right now! Go up and get on this thing! Gear Notes: Single rack to 3", set of nuts, few KB's, 6 ice screws. Approach Notes: Road is open to bridge before trailhead. Approach shoes worked to the lake.
  15. [TR] Dragontail Peak - Gerber-Sink 4/4/2015

    The third couloir is much better with snow in it. There isn't much gear, But it the lowest angle of the three couloirs, so it is pretty tame. I found a couple small cam placements along the climbers right side.
  16. How to aid solo when there is no available anchor

    Don't risk your life on a bad anchor just cause you can't find a partner. The anchor is your main point of connection to LIFE! A series of cams in pods does not equal a good anchor. And belaying aid pitches is fun. I hate the old adage that everyone should aid alone cause belaying is so boring. Get my number from Ryan and a six pack of good IPA and I'll throw you on a gri gri and you can climb till your hearts content. Just don't ask "watch me" cause I won't. It hurts my neck.
  17. Trip: Lincoln Peak - Wilkes-Booth Route (NW Face) Grade 4+ AI4+ Date: 3/13/2015 Trip Report: Lincoln Peak Wilkes-Booth Route (NW Face) AI4+ Grade 4+ ~2000 ft. FA- M. Rynkiewicz, D. Coltrane 3/13/2015 Michal Rynkiewicz and I climbed the NW face of Lincoln peak via a combination of glacial, alpine, and water ice, with steep snow fields and amazing ridge traversing mixed in. I was inspired to climb this route by a 2010 TR of Assassin Spire by the phenomenal Cascade hardman Tom Sjolseth. His trip report included a few choice picture of the NW face of Lincoln with big inspiring flows that would possibly lead to the summit of Lincoln. Given that and the great snow conditions we have been having this year I didn't really have a choice but to go out and give it a try. We were a little concerned with the warm temps and recent snow, but upon views of the start we couldn't resist. We climbed the route in a single push from the Heliotrope ridge trailhead ascending the NW face and descending the SW face (Standard) route. It was a big day and one of the most amazing routes I have had a chance to climb in the Cascades. I feel very fortunate to be blessed with outstanding partners and to be allowed passage by this amazing mountain. Sunrise on the Sisters Looking at first pitch on Descent. This is the same start as for Assassin Spire and the route shares the lower portion with Shooting Gallery until you get to the upper Ampitheatre. Starting up the first pitch. The upper half of this pitch is the crux with poorly protected overhanging ice of dubious quality. looking down at the overhanging glacier while cruising up through the first snow field. Vertical ice curtain headed up to the glacier. Michal climbing the glacier to gain the upper amphitheater. This was a fun step of glacial ice with good protection. First views of the ampitheatre. We climbed the obvious flow in the middle. It was about 120m of amazing WI3+ plastic ice like I have never seen in the Cascades. We climbed it in two long pitches. There are other climbs to be had along the face. Climbers right is a slightly easier variation that would traverse in to the main flow, and climbers left the gully would probably go with a bit of shenanigans at the top. Setting up an anchor for the first pitch. Michal Starting out the first pitch, this pitch was a full 70 meters with a little simuling on 60m ropes. this was the harder of the two pitches with a few vertical step of ice that had good features. So Much Ice! Starting out the second pitch. This was the easier of the two with one short 85 deg. section at the start and about 50m to the top of the flow. Cruising the upper snow field with the amphitheater below. Amazing ridge climbing along bomber snow and rime. Assassin Spire is the rocky spire down and right. Navigating the upper ridge to the first sub summit. From here we had to downclimb a short portion of rime ice to get to the last pitch to the summit. Looking back at the downclimb section. Such amazing position. Michal Working his way up the last technical pitch to the summit. Looking up the gulley to the summit. This was another full 60m pitch, but relatively easy. Summit Selfie! All that was left was getting off #2 on the hardest peaks in Washington. Just downclimb 2000 ft of steep snow... Out of the danger zone and glad to be heading back. From here we traversed back along the north side of the peak to Heliotrope ridge. Thanks again to my amazing partner for the commitment, and strength to get this huge climb done. Special thanks to The Tom Sjolseth for getting after it and sharing the stoke! I would have never known this was an option without his beta. Daniel Coltrane Gear Notes: 9 screws, 3 pickets, small rack to 2", set of Nuts, and small set of pins, 60m rope Mostly used screws and pickets. Approach Notes: Approached from Heliotrope ridge across the lower portion of the Thunder Glacier.
  18. Here are a few photos with lines on them that show approximately where we went. Photos are taken by and courtesy of John Scurlock. Photo by John Scurlock Photo by John Scurlock Photo by John Scurlock
  19. It took us 18.5 hours round trip, which was very conditions dependent. I have asked John Scurlock if he would let me put a line on one of his photos, but until he responds I don't have a good photo of the whole face as it is quite complex and large and cannot be completely viewed on the approach.
  20. Yes I was thinking this was the FWA and the only other route. Tom- All I know is that this is not the first time I've followed in your footsteps to some of the most amazing places in the cascades.
  21. [TR] Del Campo Peak (pics) - Standard 3/13/2015

    Three fingers and Whitehorse are the two peaks.
  22. Nice Job. Looks like you beat me to the punch on the TR. I climbed it Friday the 6th and thought it was a great route! I would say the crux pitch it solid AI4 as it seemed quite vertical, especially with the marginal gear. I was able to find good rock anchors before and after ech technical pitch though which kept the whole affair pretty sane. Beatutiful route in a great location I'm gonna hijack your post now and add a few pics from my trip. Sunrise at Cascade Pass Looking up the frist technical ice pitch, heads up and right. Third technical pitch that heads up to the ridge Traversing the ridge.
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