My weekend rant.

[hafilax]

Aren't there a couple of bolts or rivets in that hook anchor? Bottom left and right.

[JayB]

Seems like every 2-3 years there's a thread that reminds me of the prize winner from my personal history.

 

Really was the best anchor possible under the circumstances, and followed the most impressive lead by anyone that I've ever roped up with.

 

[JosephH]

One half of one of our rap anchors for a work session clearing a rockfall scar back in 2006 - completely servicable.

 

 

I'm not really seeing a problem with the op's au naturale anchor pic. I'm way more concerned about the

temperament of all you youngins these days; or to quote Riddick: "skittish, Toombs - very skittish..."

[KirkW]

I'm not really seeing a problem with the op's au naturale anchor pic. I'm way more concerned about the

temperament of all you youngins these days; or to quote Riddick: "skittish, Toombs - very skittish..."

 

Temperament of all you youngins? Sorry I like bomber anchors Gandolf.

 

Please explain to the class how the OPs picture is a good idea for a top rope anchor that's gonna be yarded on all day by a group of flailing nooblets?

 

Oh and your chockstone looks bomber to me. Somewhat different scenario though considering you weren't teaching a class at the time and your rock actually looks to be IN the crack.

 

Fucking Furyans. Defiant to the end.

 

 

[JosephH]

Bomber is in the mind of the beholder. I don't see the problem.

[Roadstead1]

Dave Dingleman's thumb in his photo of Dale Bard arriving at Birdwell's RURP anchor on the first ascent of Sea of Dreams.

 

And not a locker in sight

 

 

Aren't there a couple of bolts or rivets in that hook anchor? Bottom left and right.

 

I've heard the same thing 20 years ago, A bolt is just out of frame.

[JBo6]

Is that a dirt thread and two axes hammered into dirt?!? Or is there ice in there?

[kukuzka1]

I thought the two chockstone anchor was a back-up? also dont believe everything you see, I could go to my backyard and take a picture of ?[not saying it isnt a true belay but..]also why do people/magazines post pictures upside down/backwards? I know it makes it look steeper but in reality it makes it look like your trying to make it look steeper/harder than it really is. I guess I anwsered my own question, but it bugs me

[Choada_Boy]

I'd offer my opinion if I could see the pics. Or I could offer it regardless, which is more in line with modern Internet protocol.

[kukuzka1]

ANGER MANAGMENT

[Topher]

I hope you informed them of their improper choice. it's your duty to keep you and fellow climbers safe.

[summitchaserCJB]

I'd offer my opinion if I could see the pics. Or I could offer it regardless, which is more in line with modern Internet protocol.

Too true. Too little information. Too much assumption.

[tomtom]

What's the difference between a Mountain Guide and God?

 

 

 

 

God doesn't think he's a Mountain Guide.

[mountainsloth]

 

in no way would i use this as a toprope anchor, but i did use this as a rap anchor and felt pretty sketched out by it.

 

you can find it on white slabs of snow creek wall

[G-spotter]

I rapped off a jammed knot on some route in Calico Basin once

[rob]

i often just wedge my huge cock in and take a no-hands rest.

[summitchaserCJB]

lol

[RuMR]

i often just wedge my huge cock in and take a no-hands rest.

 

...you left out the part about RURP seams being where you rest the best, but i digress...

[Off_White]

Sooner later it was inevitable that this thread would have to move. Thanks for being the change agent Rob.

[JosephH]

Sooner later it was inevitable that this thread would have to move.

Huh? Off, you just moved a climbing topic out of a climbing forum because someone decided to be a dick? what's that about? Why bother with any forums at all? Just make it 'spray.com' if any dick can bump a legitimate thread into spray...? Last I checked the notion of 'moderating' in a forum is flagging and acting on inappropriate posts versus threads.

[summitchaserCJB]

The man does have a point.

[rob]

Um, excuse me? I was being serious.

[RuMR]

...incipient seams...

[rob]

yr just jealous of my giant meat hammer

[RuMR]

whatever...i'm comfortable in fist cracks...pinner...