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crazyjizzy

Real crazy climbers

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There has always been alot of marginal characters in the climbing world, some I feel were in need of true help.

 

Yabo: Was crazy before he killed himself.

John Bonneville: Became a skid row bum, dead(?)

AT (from Smith, 70's and 80's): Given choice, drinking or

death. Dead

Aid Man Bob Shoenard: Soloed Leaning Tower in 82 with

only three daisy chains

Will Tyrell: My friends say this dude was fucked up

Dave Stutzman: I remember him wandering around

Leavenworth in a old pair of EB's, about five sizes too big.

The Tron Brothers from the Valley: The name says it all

Darryl Hatten: Needle and the damage done.

Charlie:

Dave Shultz: Had to be insane to do all the evil things he did

to AlpineK.

Jim Beyer: Talks about doing routes where an ambivalance

to life is needed.

A Seattle local written up by John Erbin, known for ice solo's

and other not so notible behavior.

 

Any others

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A Seattle local written up by John Erbin, known for ice solo's

and other not so notible behavior.

 

Ah yes Mr Buckley. grin.gif

 

Lets not forget Gary Spears on that list

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Layton Kor's conversion to Seventh Day Adventism may make him a candidate.

Wasn't Bill "Dolt" Feuerer diagnosed with some disorder? Might have been depression, which wouldn't exactly constitute crazy.

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I guess in some way or another were all a little, "insane in the membrane"

 

Here's to the sport where being insane is plus bigdrink.gif

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http://ca.news.yahoo.com/020930/5/paw9.html

Wasn't this guy around in the Squamish heyday?

 

The there is always the suicidal Waterman clan with wanders through Denali icefields and such.

 

Your only crazy if you get caught somehow. Is Croft crazy for soloing Skywalker on Combatant. Well, he didn't get caught cantfocus.gif

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In the early 1980's, me and Dave Stutzman worked for Jim Donini as mountain guides. Dave was truly a wildman. He used to tell me that he lived for three things:

1) extreme climbing

2) extreme skiing

3) making love to beautiful women.

I recall him walking in to our instructional basecamp on Mt. Baker, barefoot to toughen himself up, because his ultimate ethic was that of the completely unencumbered climber, including no sticky rubber shoes. He used to joke about growing out his toe nails so he wouldn't need crampons. There used to be some climber flop houses in Leavenworth and I think he lived there from time to time. He had a neat route...I'm not sure if he ever did it or not....up in Icicle Canyon which he referred to as the "Ridge du Rodentia", basically doing a one-day solo of the Rat Creek Group. Dave climbed in Europe, China (with Fred Beckey?) and all over North America and was quite a stud. He survived a lot of danger only to die in an avalanche while on ski patrol at a downhill area in Montana.

Too bad....he was a Mark Twight, before Twight....philosophical but without the anger.

Here you go, Dave! bigdrink.gifbigdrink.gifbigdrink.gif

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Second John Waterman, John Long, Tobin Sorenson, Walt Shipley, Walter Bonatti, Twight and the infamous trio (House, Backes) of course, Seb Grieve (remember Hard Grit?), Andy Kirkpatrick, and the list goes on....

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that dude, I think his name is John Redhead, Welsh or Scott or something. Tr'd 5.11 with the rope tied around his sack. that is fucking sick.

cantfocus.gif

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Come on dudes! This thread had such an auspicious beginning. Bring out more interesting stories. I've been loving it. Don't let it degenerate to all one liners yet.

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What i recently got pierced was my lip...by my tooth...when punched in the face by a 20 lb. icicle

 

maybe i should wear one of those rugby chew toy things while ice climbing.

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Mike Tschipper, a Canadian hard climber of the 80s who hung out with Rob Rohn etc., took a hit of acid one day and it triggered, I guess, his previously latent paranoid schizophrenia. The dude now requires 24 hr hospital care and has for the last ~22 years. But his Dad wrote an article in the CAJ that says even though Mike doesnt climb, he still remembers climbing, and likes reading alpine journals.

 

I think that would be worse than getting killed quickly by rockfall or an avalanche, myself.

 

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Mr. Dru be braggin'...

 

"What i recently got pierced was my lip...by my tooth...when punched in the face by a 20 lb. icicle"

 

But earlier and in another subject, Dru said:

 

"I forgot to mention that i got punched in the mouth... by a 30 lb. icicle... my tooth did not FULLY penetrate my lip..."

 

 

Dude! That icicle is getting smaller each time you tell the story! That's contrary to true spray. Pretty soon, we're gonna find out that it never happened! Maybe you tripped on a snowcone at the mall while shopping for shoes with your gurlfren?

 

arcadia_tomstoppard.jpg

 

 

bigdrink.gifbigdrink.gifbigdrink.gif

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i didnt weigh it dwayner. here is a physics problem for high school students: 1) determine mass of a chunk of ice in cylindrical form, approximate diameter 15 cm, length approximately 40cm. You may ignore bubbles and assume the chunk to be solid ice; 2) what force will said ice chunk exert on the face of ice climber "D" if it detaches and free falls approximately 50 cm before impacting his face at an incident angle of approximately 70 degrees away from perpendicular? moon.gif

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