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Rainier ascent record attempt


bmaune
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Hi, I would like try for the Rainier ascent record and would like to know if the DC route is in good shape for this or not. Assuming the route is in good enough shape, then I'll want to first go up with a guide to judge the risk of a subsequent solo attempt. Also, if there is by any chance someone else thinking of doing the same then it would be really cool to do a simultaneous attempt.

 

I'd appreciate any advice and recommendations people can provide concerning the route condition and guide services.

 

Thanks,

Brett

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Individual guide is going to be bank.

 

No matter how good the conditions are, soloing the glaciers is somewhat sketchy.

 

For the ascent record you are probably going to want to be acclimatized. Pretty sure anyone that holds it or has come close was climbing it right before or staying at Paradise or Muir for a couple days at least. IOW, they weren't climbing from sea level the day before.

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I just need to be shown the route by someone really knowledgable. It could be a guide or a partner. I was originally planning on climbing some CO 14ers starting in mid June but they got a ton of late season snow and I'm trying to find cool things to do in the meantime. I fear it is already a bit late in the season for an optimal Rainier ascent but am not sure. I just don't know much about the route or the snowfall situation. If the ascent record is clearly not an option. Another possibility is to try for the Cascade Trifecta record. In that case I wouldn't need to do Rainier solo. I would just want a fast partner or guide. I wouldn't mind a parter for Hood and Adams either, but those sound like they can be done solo without too much risk.

 

Regarding acclimation, I've been sleeping in an altitude tent for a few weeks now.

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Individual guide is going to be bank.

 

No matter how good the conditions are, soloing the glaciers is somewhat sketchy.

 

For the ascent record you are probably going to want to be acclimatized. Pretty sure anyone that holds it or has come close was climbing it right before or staying at Paradise or Muir for a couple days at least. IOW, they weren't climbing from sea level the day before.

 

I thought the Dorais brothers drove overnight from Utah, crushed the record and then drove home or some impressively tight schedule. Still not from sea level though.

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I'm mainly interested in the "running" ascent record and not the overall round trip record which seems to be locked up by the skiers.

 

Regarding the route, I have heard descriptions ranging from that it is like following a side walk, to really dangerous due to the crevasses opening up, and everything in between. Perhaps old age is making me more risk averse but I was hoping to at least do it once with a partner to gauge the risk of a solo attempt.

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I'm mainly interested in the "running" ascent record and not the overall round trip record which seems to be locked up by the skiers.

From what I've read, runners are faster on the ascent and skiers make up the difference on the descent. I think the ski record came though Muir at 90 minutes, whereas the runners come through around 60. I also think most running ascents are done later in the season when the crevasses are open and obvious and the only reason the current record was done early was because they were on skis and wanted snow coverage.

 

 

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The best conditions I have experienced for a speed ascent on the DC were in mid September following an early season snow storm. The crevasses were all wide open and the icy spots were covered in perfect neve' and all the ladders were still in place. I think soloing earlier in the season is more dangerous as snow bridges of undetermined strength exist.

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I have friends who went up last week...july 7. And they said the route was a circuitous mess. Traversing back and forth nearly to the Eamons Route with 7 ladders and counting. He said it was the longest route he has ever done on the DC and the worst trail conditions and he has climbed it at least 10 times. I do not think this is the year?

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