AT84 Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 This is what Practice gully looked like this morning Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quikclimber Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 After a recon' on Wednesday I went back Friday and Saturday for two laps up the practice gully. Here are some pictures in no particular order. There were three other parties climbing it Saturday. In all, there were about 7 pitches of low angle ice and a few steeper steps. The main flow became wetter further up until it became un-climbable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geosean Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 It's a little late, but we climbed the NEB on Chair on the 4th. It was just below freezing most of the time we were there. The route was in good shape, I've never been there but it seemed maybe a little thin...? The whole east face was pretty much climbable snice and verglas to about 55 degrees. P.S. if you haven't been there before (like us) the summer trail takes you almost right to the base of the climb (rather than postholeing all the way in from Source Lake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R. Ding Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 2 pitches were climbed this weekend at Millennium Wall (if anyone else has the Washington Ice Climbing book, we think it was probably the third Millennium Wall?). Thanks to Craig for finding and leading it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pnwdevin Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 Climbed alpental on thursday. Lots of running water underneath the ice with very thin friable conditions. No reliable ice protection to be found on any of the flows. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nate G Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 (edited) What are conditions looking like in Lillooet? Trying to decide whether to head north or go east to Banks Lake? Edited January 20, 2015 by Nate G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafael_H Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 Lillooet: https://westcoastice.wordpress.com/ Banks Lake: don't forget the rock shoes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 If thinking of Lillooet this weekend, might want to consider the forecast high of PLUS 12 C for both Saturday and Sunday when the warm front is forecast to roll thru http://weather.gc.ca/city/pages/bc-28_metric_e.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 Looks like shit for the next week or so. Even Marble Canyon will be above freezing for the next few days. Cache Creek is predicted to have 13C during day and 6C at night on Sunday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 On the plus side snowmelt will make for fat ice when it cools down again. I hope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maurop Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 I was up at rambles center yesterday, with decent conditions lower down from an inversion. Higher up it was thinner and dripping, and still looked like it was forming up. The forecast doesn't look promising for the weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted February 1, 2015 Share Posted February 1, 2015 This is one of the worst ice seasons on the coast I can remember. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted February 1, 2015 Author Share Posted February 1, 2015 I agree Bob. For both skiing and climbing!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted February 1, 2015 Share Posted February 1, 2015 I heard there were some bitching alpine climbing conditions the last few days. Now over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 It's a little late, but we climbed the NEB on Chair on the 4th.... P.S. if you haven't been there before (like us) the summer trail takes you almost right to the base of the climb (rather than postholeing all the way in from Source Lake. Only because it's a low snow year. Normal winters the summer trail is a lot of avalanche hazard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 I heard there were some bitching alpine climbing conditions the last few days. Now over. Yes, I have heard. Wasted one day because a partner bailed last minute (yeah, you know who you are). And then this friggin job thing. It helps to have windows longer then 2-3 days if you are a working person. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 Bob, did you hear about this? Second Ascent added 2 new photos — with Will Hinckley and Braden Downey. January 17 at 1:04pm · Edited · From the guys that brought you "Fast & Light in the Alaska Range" did it again on one of Washington's formidable beasts. Last week Will Hinckley & Braden Downey climbed what is known to be the #secondascent of the Polish Route on Colfax Peak with difficulties of run-out sections up to WI6. Will states, "It's by far the best ice line I've been on in Washington and it's definitely deserving of more traffic." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 great news! Congratulations! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 well, at least in the long long term forecast, next winter should be "normal". http://www.cpc.ncep.noaa.gov/products/predictions/multi_season/13_seasonal_outlooks/color/churchill.php Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmeyers Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 yeah, but here's the forecast for this season released Jan 2014 http://www.cpc.ncep.noaa.gov/products/archives/long_lead/gifs/2014/201401temp.gif http://www.cpc.ncep.noaa.gov/products/archives/long_lead/gifs/2014/201401prcp.gif not that I'm going to give up hope for next season. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 mr glass is half empty. though yes, any forecast beyond 3 days is suspect. certainly a 10 month forecast is as good as a lottery ticket. But I prefer to live in optimistic denial of reality. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 But I prefer to live in optimistic denial of reality. I think this is called a 'willing suspension of disbelief', something all PNW climbers have mastered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obwan Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 Alex (and glassgowkiss) - I'm in, if there are any more winters this mild - my ice gear will last forever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted February 14, 2015 Author Share Posted February 14, 2015 I haven't sold any of my ice gear or my ski gear yet. I've gotten some amazing sailboat racing days in, and some mild weather cragging days for January. Best thing about WA is that whatever the weather is, you can usually craft a plan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obwan Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 Maybe we should head to the East Coast, as it looks like another Ice Age is beginning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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