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Everything posted by mmeyers

  1. Bouldering is over

    there are a lot of easily accessible options these days for training plans, if that's what you're looking for. powercompanyclimbing.com, latticetraining.com, trainingbeta.com, and more. If you only have access to a hangboard, there are many protocols to use. I prefer the simplicity of Steve Bechtel's stuff (climbstrong.com) and his Hangboard Manual is pretty accessible imo, but there's also the Anderson's Rock Climbing Training Manual and Horst's Training For Climbing. A science-y explanation of when to use what sort of protocol can be found in Eva Lopez's site (http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/). as for hangboards, that outdoorsly list is good. wood is nicer on your fingers if you're going to use it a lot. If you're looking for more overall fitness, not just finger/forearms for technical rock climbing, then check out some of the plans at https://mtntactical.com/.
  2. Alpine Dads wanted

    I could have written this post. I *should* have written this post years ago. I'm 45 too, and I have a little more time than I used to, as my kids are older, but yeah, I really appreciate climbing with other parents (no offense to my other non-parent partners that read this - I swear I love y'all!). Hit me up if you're looking for a partner sometime. cheers.
  3. Old Kloke Book "One Day Winter Climbs"

    can I have a copy, too?
  4. mMy take on living a balanced life (work, family & adventure)

    I gave up on balance years ago. It's all about compromise and sacrifice for me. sacrifice mostly. as in, what's getting sacrificed this week? maybe I pass through an equilibrium point every once and a while. like Ivan said, looks like you got a good thing. keep it up, and best of luck to you!
  5. Identifying Cascade peaks from Seattle area

    just because it's interesting, here's another one. it has a little more detail. https://jasoncurtisphotography.com/store/cascades-seattle-panorama
  6. Music at your Memorial Service

    I don't care what they play, as long as there's an open bar.
  7. I found these useful. I do them as preventative exercises now, except I use a arm-aid instead of a roller bar.
  8. question Mountain Hardwear Direkt 2

    I have one and have used it twice, early spring conditions (ie, lots of snow on the ground, temps below freezing), but there was no active precip. As you would expect, condensation can be an issue, as it has minimal ventilation. I wish I had the vestibule. Having also spent time in a BD FirstLight, I'd say that it's almost the same thing. except red.
  9. Slesse Access FYI

    Interesting. I had speculated the opposite, since the high snow accumulation was higher than the glacier, and it was a really warm spring. As it's been a little more wet lately, I figured that would help it slide off. (but what I lack in experience I make up for in wild speculation and theory, so there's that).
  10. Knee pain on descent

    Don't know your history. asking for medical advice on the web, you get what you pay for. ymmv. etc etc. some things you want to learn about knee pain: 1) often, knee pain comes from pelvis misalignment. I've been told that IT band issues can also arise as a result of pelvis misalgnment (I don't have IT band problems so can't comment on the veracity of that) 2) there is a proper knee alignment that lots of people don't use, and if you're lifting weights you'll screw your knee up really quickly if you're not doing it correctly. 1) + 2) means that posture and alignment are everything! 3) there are some stabilizer muscles that keep your knee in alignment. I highly suggest you see someone professional (or multiple professionals) about your pain, and to discuss your posture and positioning. they might be able to point you at some exercises to keep you aligned so you don't injure yourself more. M
  11. ice climbing MLK weekend

    I'm looking for a partner for ice climbing over MLK weekend. My partner had to bail. We had planned to go to Hyalite, with the intent of getting as much mileage as possible, ie I'm relatively inexperienced but competent and safe. Open to going almost anywhere (Lillooet, etc). I can drive (or fly depending on distance/cost), I have the gear and the time, looking for a partner (or 2 or 10). Anybody interested? Happy to belay lots.
  12. I'm looking for some skis, 160-166cm or thereabouts. used, beaters, whatever. Thanks!
  13. never trust someone who hangs in a harness enough that he uses some silly way to tie in to make it more comfortable. if you're hanging so much that you need a better sitting position, get a belay seat or something. otherwise, climb more and hang less.
  14. Trip: Snow Creek Wall - Outer Space -- LOOSE FLAKE on traverse pitch! Date: 9/22/2015 Trip Report: I'm posting this as a warning, and in case someone more experienced than me might be able to check it out and determine if action needs to be taken. This was my first time up Outer Space. Leading, I noted that one flake/block near the end of the traverse pitch, right before you move up to the belay, was flexing a little. It had plenty of chalk on it, so clearly it's being used. I skipped it and moved along. My partner, who has climbed the route numerous times, also noted that it was loose, and said that it has never moved on him before. It seems to me to be a potential safety issue, especially since there are so many inexperienced climbers on the route. I'm not equipped to assess the safety of it, nor do anything to fix/remove it - hopefully someone else can determine if it's really a problem. Be safe out there!
  15. going to Methow valley?

    Is anybody from Seattle going to the Methow Valley sometime in the next week? My car is stranded in Mazama - I had to leave it last week b/c of the road closures. I'm looking for a ride. I'll help pay for gas. Thanks, Matt
  16. Tips for Improving Speed?

    I moved here after living along the gulf coast for most of my life. So I know being a flat-lander. I thought I was in good shape - hahaha. I also have a 9-5+, and 2 kids, and my wife works, and thusly limited time stuck in town. Your goal is to be able to move at a faster pace, but stay in your aerobic zone so you can extend your duration. You also want to be able to jump into an anaerobic zone to move faster, but you don't want to be in that zone too much or you will be trashed. Being a flatlander most likely means that you haven't trained the climbing muscles in your lower body to endure that. So, that's where you need to start. Training on flat ground doesn't do squat in the mountains, imo. There's lots of info online for gaining endurance. Read up about building your aerobic base. there's lots of good info in the cycling world - this stuff is very well developed for road racing. "training for the new alpinism" has some good info and explanations, but imo the audience for that book is people not doing the 9-5 in the city, so I don't recommend the training plans per se. Whatever you do, the key is to use the muscles you use for climbing. The following is what I think works as a *starting* point. YMMV. It took me years before I started seeing real results: Without the time to get outside, what has worked best for me is doing step-ups. 1-2 hours at a time, 2-3x/week, with a pack (yes, it's boring, I watched a lot of movies). (OK, sometimes I'd only do 1 hr 1x/wk. It's really boring.) I used a heart rate monitor to help stay in my aerobic zone, ie below mid zone 2 HR. I'd go at the speed that keeps me near the limit of my aerobic zone. After some time (ie, months), I saw my speed improve a little. After 4-6 months or so, I started spending time in high zone 2-3 HR (below anaerobic threshold), and went through a sequence of max HR intervals (Tabata-style) running uphill/stairs to supposedly increase VO2 max. Max HR intervals gets diminishing returns pretty quickly, so only 1-2 weeks at at time. Then I go back to mostly zone 1-2, and some zone 2-3. good luck.
  17. Thinner Glove with Gauntlet?

    Rab Latok or Baltoro? or find some gardening gloves?
  18. Solo TR Setups?

    For the situation you describe (working a short-ish sequence and want to go up and down the rope numerous time), and also when I'm working a route where there will be more abrasion to the rope when I fall (ie, overhangs), I use 2 strands. One strand has a micro-trax, the other a gri-gri. I generally prefer 2 strands because of the redundancy it allows (ie, though the odds are very low, a rope can fail, etc), but it's especially beneficial when I find it advantageous to be able to weight separate strands to disengage devices (ie, working cruxes). M ---- In my next post, I'm going to try to use "ie" even more!
  19. glove recommendation for ice/alpine

    I like the Rab Alpine Glove. I'll note, though, that I have short fingers, and these are one of the few gloves that fit my finger length well.
  20. yeah, but here's the forecast for this season released Jan 2014 http://www.cpc.ncep.noaa.gov/products/archives/long_lead/gifs/2014/201401temp.gif http://www.cpc.ncep.noaa.gov/products/archives/long_lead/gifs/2014/201401prcp.gif not that I'm going to give up hope for next season.
  21. Can someone give me beta for approaching the lower section and right-side routes of midnight rock. It's reasonable enough to get to Dead end ledge. Is there a lower trail that breaks right that has eluded me? (I did find a spur to the right, but cliffed out) Do/can you approach from the pullout closer to Lworth? tia Matt
  22. midnight rock approach beta

    from what I could tell, there's only one trail leading up toward midnight rock from the top of Castle Rock, and that's the trail I've taken which led me to the ledge. I didn't see another trail, other than the dead-end spur I think I found. Did i miss something obvious?
  23. Looking for a partner for some climbing, 8/25-27 or part thereof. I'd prefer WA Pass area, or alpine rock in general, but I'm more than willing to get after anything rock/alpine/glacier. I'm in Seattle, and I have gear, experience, transportation, and motivation.
  24. I'm looking for an alpine rock partner for climbing sometime Aug 14-17. If you've got 1 or 2 days, that's fine. Objectives, not exclusive: Colchuck Balanced Rock Acid Baby Gorillas in the Mist Snake Charmer Lichtenberg W Face anything at WA Pass or the Wine Spires
  25. Car Question

    Would you consider another option entirely? I've been in a similar situation for a long time. I finally bit the bullet and bought a 4WD truck. Its +15 years old, +200k miles, and it was cheap. I took my time looking, since I wanted it in good condition. So, I kept my small city car, and bought a cheap truck. Overall, it's far less expensive than buying new anything, even if the truck needs a big repair.